I like to pull a heater hose and run a hose through it backwards to flush the heater core and block clean, then blow as much water out as possible with air and refill

I like to pull a heater hose and run a hose through it backwards to flush the heater core and block clean, then blow as much water out as possible with air and refill

use a good chemical flush as well, this doesnt clean anything but will neutralise any left over coolant so it doesnt mix and cause trouble

I use tectaloy XP7 which isnt expensive for a good product, find the best you can afford and pick something the next level up, too much alloy to skimp here

and dont ever mix coolants!!!

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

Actually, coolant raises water's boiling temperature.

It stops your coolant boiling in hot weather.

by about 8 degrees going on most specs, the radiator cap does a lot more

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

Ethylene glycol boiling point vs. concentration in water Weight Percent EG (%) Boiling Point (deg F) Boiling Point (deg C)
0 212 100
10 215 102
20 215 102
30 220 104
40 220 104
50 225 107
60 230 110
70 240 116
80 255 124
90 285 140
100 387 197

http://www.tectaloy.com/Tectaloy_Bigblue.pdf

pdf page 15

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

their spec charts seem a bit random listing specs on some as no pressure and others at pressure and the top line stuff they list nothing
How does their glycol behave better than glycol? its not possible

is nulon crap? i kinda just figured a mid-price brand would be ok... if not, what brand is best?

Is the glycol pure? :S

that top chart I posted is the properties of glycol, you cant make glycol better than glycol

saying it was fine in an engine at a track is just fucking stupid, dont be an idiot, its main job is to prevent corrosion, your little engine would of been fine with tap water, only difference would be 8 degrees of boiling point, wont run any hotter

yeah I read it, its an idiotic comment hence why I said you are stupid

coolant does nothing to help with the transfer of heat, its not a magical green liquid that sucks heat from your engine better and pushes it out the radiator better

it helps prevent corrosion
it reduces the point the coolant will freeze
it rasises the point the coolant will boil (by bugger all)

By saying it was some magic thing in your engine you are saying that previously your engine constantly ran so hot that it boiled all the time and you needed the extra 8 degrees to stop that?

you arent getting it are you

[imghttp://docs.engineeringtoolbox.com/documents/926/water-pressure-boiling-temperature-2.png[/img]

water under 11psi of pressure will boil at 117 degrees, at 55% glycol its 125 (there is that 8 degrees again) so you are saying that your thing was running at between 117 and 125 degrees all day?

I am not saying dont worry about coolant cause the boiling point increase isnt worth it, I am saying you are a fool for thinking its a major consideration, most suzukis are an alloy block, I said get he best gone damn shit you can get cause the corrosion protection needed is massive, chances are once one of these engines gets to that temp you've already stuffed something, boiling or not

it helps prevent corrosion
it reduces the point the coolant will freeze
it rasises the point the coolant will boil (by bugger all)?