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Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:01 pm 
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I'm talking about a WT SWB. How far back can you take it? First thing to hit will be the fuel tank i'm guessing, but you also have shocks and brake lines to consider.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:22 pm 
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SFA without moving tank and modding shocks... You'd be lucky to get 10mm... Not worth the effort.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:29 pm 
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want33s wrote:
SFA without moving tank and modding shocks... You'd be lucky to get 10mm... Not worth the effort.


The shocks shouldn't be such an issue as i've moved them around a bit already, and the top mount I should be able to move back as it's a bolt on thing.

The tank is a worry though!

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:31 pm 
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mines back about 1" or so, and a new crossmember on the chassis right behind the fuel tank holds the shocks. Any further back the tank would have been in the way.

if you're looking at going pretty extreme with it though, can you not move the fuel tank?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:01 am 
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I had mine 17mm. Stock mounts. Brakeline bolts on diff dented the thin hilux shocks. Fuel tank was ok. Even more room with a swb vit tank with 2"BL. Tank seam level with bottom of chassis. I could of gone further if i flipped the top crossmember, but then wheelbase in guards would of looked crap.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:30 am 
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There's no real way around it other than to move the tank back, which is doable but a lot of work. But I hadn't considered what Bluesuzy said, which is once you do that the wheel really isn't in the guard any more anyway.

I've just been looking again at Bluesuzy's thread as i'm looking at using Corolla springs too. If I remember correctly the centre bolt on those springs must be offset a lot toward the spring hanger, and his pics kinda show that.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 2:19 am 
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here's a pic of mine 1" back with the added crossmember for shocks:
Image
pic was of the exhaust from another thread but you get the idea.

heres another:
Image

another:
Image

crossmember:
Image

kind of side on pic:
Image

here's an old side-on pic:
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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 2:23 am 
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Mine's back about 3/4" I think ... not hitting anything with the diff, and the 31x10.5s on 15x7 -18 even clear the fuel filler guard (2" body lift).

Pretty close with the diff and the fuel tank IIRC though ... had it slightly further back to start with and had to move it forward to avoid a number of issues.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 2:53 am 
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Damo wrote:
There's no real way around it other than to move the tank back, which is doable but a lot of work. But I hadn't considered what Bluesuzy said, which is once you do that the wheel really isn't in the guard any more anyway.

I've just been looking again at Bluesuzy's thread as i'm looking at using Corolla springs too. If I remember correctly the centre bolt on those springs must be offset a lot toward the spring hanger, and his pics kinda show that.


Na, from memory it is 500?mm to centre like a sierra rear. Then the extra spring length is to the shackle. Wheres the longer spring thread.

Buh trying to find it, It had measurements of most of the 50mm leafs. Its not the longer leafs thread by norm..

Ahah! http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... onger+leaf

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:09 am 
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You can massage the fuel tank around an inch or so without any ill affects, have done it on mine. My diff is back over 30mm, shocks remounted on top of the tube and using stock upper mount, fuel filler guard removed and tube cable tied back, you cant really tell any difference when looking side on until the tyre is compressed.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:33 am 
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Just stick a fuel cell in the cargo area and be done with it Damo :D

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:49 am 
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Buy a Lwb.... :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:07 am 
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ScrawnC wrote:
Just stick a fuel cell in the cargo area and be done with it Damo :D


Or LPG tank! 8)

I would make exhaust routing at the back a heap easier if that fuel tank wasn't there!!!

Stek, you're not sellin' a LWB are ya? :P

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:58 pm 
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steak_knife wrote:
Buy a Lwb.... :lol:


Even my lwb im not moving the diff back at all due to clearance. But my front will be 3' forward..

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:23 pm 
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damo, whats the purpose of moving the axle back? tyre clearance?
I redrilled the front hanger to gain a better shackle angle which I'm guessing moved it back a touch and gave a slightly better droop but I'm curious about yours

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:47 pm 
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ajsr wrote:
damo, whats the purpose of moving the axle back? tyre clearance?
I redrilled the front hanger to gain a better shackle angle which I'm guessing moved it back a touch and gave a slightly better droop but I'm curious about yours


Some of the springs I have been looking at have the centre pin in a position that moves the axle back. I was trying to work out if I could use the springs without relocating the centre pin. Some will work OK, KE series Corolla for example.

I have used the Corollas before with a set of drop shackles, and I'm grabbing some Corollas today to have another play with. The thing I don't like about the Corollas is the centre pin is offset a LOT toward one end, but this is exactly the reason it will work in the rear of the zook without moving the spring hanger. So it's a bit of a trade off. I'll give them another run and see how they go, if they don't work for me it will be easy to go back to stock.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:35 am 
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So ke springs work in the rear with drop shackles

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:17 pm 
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mcwilly wrote:
So ke springs work in the rear with drop shackles


Not as far as i'm concerned, but I don't really like drop shackles anyway so there is some bias there. I used a drop shackle in this instance because I didn't want to cut and move the shackle hanger, or use huge shackles.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:33 pm 
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On my swb, i needed to cut and move the shackle hanger to the edge of the chassis, then i still used 3" longer shackles.. If done with a normal shackle, it will need to be at least 3" off the chassis. So that means extending the chassis.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:54 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
On my swb, i needed to cut and move the shackle hanger to the edge of the chassis, then i still used 3" longer shackles.. If done with a normal shackle, it will need to be at least 3" off the chassis. So that means extending the chassis.


Interesting, I was wondering how you did the shackle bit.

I picked up some KE70 wagon springs yesterday. It looks as though the centre pin is in a different location to the KE35/55 springs, as it would move the diff back about 30mm or so with the KE70 springs. Length is going to be about the same though.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:38 pm 
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my diff moves a long way because of my springs/shackles and the tyre touches the filler thing
the diff hasnt touched the fuel tank yet.
i am not sure how far the diff has moved however it took 1x25mm and 1x15mm
tailshaft spacers to stop the shaft falling apart.
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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:27 am 
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My tyres used to touch the fuel hose also, so i strapped it back.

Vit tank changes this again also.

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