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Post Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:40 am 
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Hey,Since my 1.6 coil pack install in my sierra ive had a strange problem where my check engine light (which i wired up) would come on and the car would stall or idle badly for a while, but left to idle or shut down it would be fine a few minutes later.

It only happens under load ie, hard beach driving, multiple dune climbs, low range crawling at 3-4000rpm.

Last trip out i went back to the standed 1.3 engine fan (in place or a 12' themo in shroud) as i thought it could be temp related. Temp where lower on road but about the same offroad. However the problem was worse as the motor was now under more load. It would even start again at stages?

Soo, i bumped the idle up to about 1000rpm under no load, which went to about 750rpm with spotties etc on (as i havent wired up the diodes yet for engine idle bump up).

Now at 1000rpm the problem never returned the whole track? Is this the problem?? Just a to low idle?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:32 am 
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Did it only happen when you released the throttle sharply?
Were you able to release the throttle slowly and have the idle stable?

What was the initial idle rpm?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:54 pm 
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Checked for fault codes?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:55 pm 
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What injection do you have if its baleno or jimney id put money on it being cam angle sensor, they start to fail when they are real warm ie after hard work then will progress to get worse and under cooler conditions as the probs continue, If vitara efi look at the dizzy module.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:11 am 
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Well like i said the problem seems to of disappeared with the idle being bumped up to around 1000rpm.

Quote:
Checked for fault codes?


Um, sadly i havent wired up the diagnostics plug. Can it be done without it ie dash flashes etc?

Quote:
id put money on it being cam angle sensor, they start to fail when they are real warm ie after hard work then will progress to get worse and under cooler conditions as the probs continue


Are these expensive to replace? If there not to much ill try it.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:14 am 
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Taylor74 wrote:
What injection do you have if its baleno or jimney id put money on it being cam angle sensor, they start to fail when they are real warm ie after hard work then will progress to get worse and under cooler conditions as the probs continue, If vitara efi look at the dizzy module.


Tps to, but I think your on the money with this one..

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:23 am 
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Well, when i got the motor the tps was stuffed as i think the motor had been dropped on its side on to the throttle body. This was replaced with a complete second hand throttle body so maybe this is playing up.

Well ill start looking for some prices for the cam angle sensor

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:36 am 
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Well, been researching the cam position sensor and it seems a common and very similar problem, ie under load.

The only problem is they are $100? not that much but can anyone source them cheaper?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:46 am 
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$100 to throw a dart and maybe get it right, or $0 or close to it to wire in a diagnostics plug. You can get teh codes via the check engine light on the dash if you wire the diagnostics plug. The Check Engine light is on meaning it has set a code in the ECU. Why guess when you have the option of checkign what the ECU is acutally having an issue with.


Layto....

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:53 am 
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LAY80N wrote:
$100 to throw a dart and maybe get it right, or $0 or close to it to wire in a diagnostics plug. You can get teh codes via the check engine light on the dash if you wire the diagnostics plug. The Check Engine light is on meaning it has set a code in the ECU. Why guess when you have the option of checkign what the ECU is acutally having an issue with.


Layto....


I agree, how ever the eng light along with alt will come on at low rpm, & the cam pos doesn't always throw a code..

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:56 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
LAY80N wrote:
$100 to throw a dart and maybe get it right, or $0 or close to it to wire in a diagnostics plug. You can get teh codes via the check engine light on the dash if you wire the diagnostics plug. The Check Engine light is on meaning it has set a code in the ECU. Why guess when you have the option of checkign what the ECU is acutally having an issue with.


Layto....


I agree, how ever the eng light along with alt will come on at low rpm, & the cam pos doesn't always throw a code..



Yeah i know, but if he does the diagnostic check and it comes up something totally different then sweet, if not he has lost bugger all time and money, plus has a fully functioning diagnostics setup. A converstion that doesnt have the features that the factory donnor cars had is a bit half arsed (for a road car anyway).

Layton

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:01 am 
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LAY80N wrote:
Yeah i know, but if he does the diagnostic check and it comes up something totally different then sweet, if not he has lost bugger all time and money, plus has a fully functioning diagnostics setup. A converstion that doesnt have the features that the factory donnor cars had is a bit half arsed (for a road car anyway).

Layton


couldn't agree more, it's got me why it get's chopped out so often..

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:40 pm 
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i get this same issue every now and again, but mine will happen when sitting at lights after being driven for the 1st time (1st set of light or stoppage since starting) but its not after applying heavy load, doesnt matter how i drive. i get the battery light coming on sometimes to (during low idle)

would this be the same problem? ill watch this thread and see how you go.
sorry to hi jack.
Mitch

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