Don't you also need a handbrake to go on the transfercase (or a shaft) so that you still have a handbrake?

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

Not if you use calipers from the back of a car that has a handbrake built in EG: Pintara... Magna... Lancer..

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it, doesnt matter if the brake is on teh shaft or a pair of axles, all wheels on the ground in 4wd it will brake all wheels, the only advantatage is it uses the mechanical advantage of teh diff gears to multiply the force needed to overcome the brake.

Unlocked diffs a tailshaft handbrake will not work if 1 wheel both ends has no traction, even one rear wheel a little off the ground up a hill will see it roll backwards till it hits firm ground, a pair of brakes on a diff will still have some holding.

Drums make for better handbrakes than discs as there is more surface area

Che, unless you are a regular mud plugger there is no advantage and I would think the labour alone to fit discs would be dearer than an all up rebuild of your rear brakes (remember the axles need to come off, the old backing plates need to be cut off or removed, which means the wheel bearings have to come off

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it, doesnt matter if the brake is on teh shaft or a pair of axles, all wheels on the ground in 4wd it will brake all wheels, the only advantatage is it uses the mechanical advantage of teh diff gears to multiply the force needed to overcome the brake.

Unlocked diffs a tailshaft handbrake will not work if 1 wheel both ends has no traction, even one rear wheel a little off the ground up a hill will see it roll backwards till it hits firm ground, a pair of brakes on a diff will still have some holding.

instead of doing rear disc conversion can anyone tell me if it would be more beneficial to swap standard front sierra disc for a slotted ones? does it make the brakes stronger or only more heat resistant?

http://www.suzispares.com/scripts/prodV ... roduct=705

kris

Not for that price!!!

I doubt you would ever notice the difference, slots are really to just help wipe the pad in heavy braking

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it,

just like your personality isn't yours mate...

however the information you provided after that remark was useful and has been taken on board, so thanks for that.

So you know Royce well enough to make that judgment??

They must know each other rather well for each of them to be making subjective judgements... or is that just a one way street on this forum

I have never had a problem with brake wear in my suzuki's, if you think about how your brakes work and wear you would imagine that slowing the vehicle from road speeds to a stop over and over again on your daily commute would cause more wear than the slow speed brake applications that you use off road crawling. I think that as others have said it is the mud and dirt ingression that plays havock with brakes (and other mechanicals)

Yeah Jas but the Sierra kit is made for non handbrake sierra front calipers on the back and will need the fitter to work out their front to rear bias and then fit the approtriate proportioning valve.

Joeblow's Sierra kit is made to use Pintara/Skyline rear calipers with a handbrake. There was a bit of a write up in the "I made it" forum.

I only got a year ~12000k's outta rear shoes doing mainly road work and very minimal offroad wheel deep muddy crap. Shoes were only a few mm from their backing. Wonder if this wear has something to do with the quality of some aftermarket shoes?

Sidenote:

That bloody auto adjuster is a joke. It doesn't seem to auto do much anything! Unless all the aftermarket shoes have got the slots cut to big for the adjuster, the adjuster itself is going to need some modifications

Dan