[roughzook]

ok i have an sj410 lwb with the mighty 970cc f10a engine in her.

just wanting to know what differences there are to a normal g13a zook.

obviously the engine. but is it just as easy to put in a g13b or g13bb into it?

transfer case gearing?

axles and diffs? i think i read somewhere they are different

any suspension differences? i doubt it but no harm in asking

Basically want to know whats different and interchangeable.

wouldnt mind doing an engine conversion down the track, just cause carbies and 4 speed annoys me. The carby aint bad, but would prefer efi

[BlueSuzy]

Transfer gearing is lower
Axles and diffcentres/whole housings are smaller than 1.3 ones
Suspension is same as all Nt sierra's
Gearbox tunnel smaller
Gearbox is different
Engine mounts on chassis are different
Bonnets different (all panels are interchangeable though)
Fuel tank has an empty plug. 1.3 don't. so its better!
Depending on models, diff flanges/transfer flanges different
Tailshafts different

For a G13ba/ G13a /efi G13bb/ efi G13B/ efi and carb G16a/ efi G16b x90-baleno-vitara-swift
Bodylift will be needed to clear gbox tunnel, or if you lower the engine mounts it will do the same as you will need to run 1.3 Gbox.

Each engine then has there own other needs for any conversion. Like wiring/exhaust etc, Then each specific engine has their own needs different to others. e.g. G13b needs a dizzy 90 degree adapter or mods..OR a G16b baleno motor need sump mods for a sensor.

Show us a pic

[Crunched]

BlueSuzy wrote:

For a G13ba/ G13a /efi G13bb/ efi G13B/ efi and carb G16a/ efi G16b x90-baleno-vitara-swift
Bodylift will be needed to clear gbox tunnel, or if you lower the engine mounts it will do the same as you will need to run 1.3 Gbox.

I converted my 1L to 1.3L without a bodylift with no issues. It runs a bodylift nowadays, but that's not due to any gearbox tunnel clearance problems.

[BlueSuzy]

Ok, The 1L do have a smaller tunnel. What did you do with the engine mounts?

[Crunched]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Ok, The 1L do have a smaller tunnel. What did you do with the engine mounts?

Yep, and it is a relatively close fit, but nothing that causes any issues - no knocking or rubbing anywhere. Engine mounts - cut some 1.3L ones off my donor car and used them (ie, removed the 1L ones completely, welded in the 1.3L mounts). Then made up a custom gearbox crossmember/mount.

[roughzook]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Transfer gearing is lower
Axles and diffcentres/whole housings are smaller than 1.3 ones much weaker? are the interchangeable? can i go to wide track diffs easy enough on narrow track spacing?
Suspension is same as all Nt sierra's
Gearbox tunnel smaller
Gearbox is different
Engine mounts on chassis are different hmm so efi g13 wont be an easy bolt in? gay or are they in the same spot, so just need the 1.3 mounts?
Bonnets different (all panels are interchangeable though)
Fuel tank has an empty plug. 1.3 don't. so its better!
Depending on models, diff flanges/transfer flanges different what models
Tailshafts different

For a G13ba/ G13a /efi G13bb/ efi G13B/ efi and carb G16a/ efi G16b x90-baleno-vitara-swift
Bodylift will be needed to clear gbox tunnel, or if you lower the engine mounts it will do the same as you will need to run 1.3 Gbox.

Each engine then has there own other needs for any conversion. Like wiring/exhaust etc, Then each specific engine has their own needs different to others. e.g. G13b needs a dizzy 90 degree adapter or mods..OR a G16b baleno motor need sump mods for a sensor.

Show us a pic

her is a pic of it at the moment, wont stay this way for long. have 31's on f100 rims on the way. and will be getting suspension upgrade very soon, the front is very badly sagged.

edit: sorry pics wont load my file size is too big.

[roughzook]

this should work

[Gwagensteve]

roughzook wrote:

BlueSuzy wrote:

Axles and diffcentres/whole housings are smaller than 1.3 ones much weaker? are the interchangeable? can i go to wide track diffs easy enough on narrow track spacing?

Engine mounts on chassis are different hmm so efi g13 wont be an easy bolt in? gay or are they in the same spot, so just need the 1.3 mounts?

Depending on models, diff flanges/transfer flanges different what models

A) 1.0 litre rear axles are the same strength as 1.3 axles. 1.0 front axles are a little bit weaker than 1.3 as the CV is smaller and the the inner axle has less splines where it goes into the CV. 1.3 NT front axles are a straight swap and add some strength.

1.0 housings are smaller than 1.3, and a bit weaker - Every 1.0 rear axlehousing I've seen has cracked around the rear Ubolts on the drivers side.

1.0 diff centres are smaller, which is good for ground clearance. The diff gears seem plenty strong enough, and it is possible to swap in 4.56 or 4.88 diff ratios from an LJ50 or 80.

Locker availability is difficult - I think lockrights are the only option.

Yes, you can run WT axles once they have been converted to NT spacing. That's what was in my car until I went vitara rear, and is still what's in the front.

You need some parts though. On top of the axlehousings, you need a WT draglink, and need to sort out the driveshafts.

B) The engine mounts on the chassis are in the wrong positions for both sides. Christover on here made some adapter plates to move the engine mounts to the right position, (they have to move quite a long way) or cut the mounts off the chassis and reweld them in the right spot. This is a little bit tricky, mostly because the gearbox mount has to move too, so for at least part of the job, you loose all the reference points for where the motor and gearbox should be.

C) All suzuki built 1.0litres (I'm pretty sure yours is a japanese built car, not a Maruti) have a smaller driveshaft flange bolt pattern and spigot than all 1.3 engined cars and unique driveshafts. If you have a "4WD light" transfer case, you can swap the flanges over from a 1.3litre car. You can't swap pinion flanges, or the flanges from a "non 4WD light" case.

The smaller flanges also come with a different style of Uni. They have internal c-clips to hold the caps in, rather than external clips like the 1.3 cars. The unis are the same size, but the yokes are different. It is possible to make a "hybrid" uni that is 1/2 1.0 and 1/2 1.3, but this doesn't always work.

Hope this helps.

Steve.

[roughzook]

Gwagensteve wrote:

roughzook wrote:

BlueSuzy wrote:

Axles and diffcentres/whole housings are smaller than 1.3 ones much weaker? are the interchangeable? can i go to wide track diffs easy enough on narrow track spacing?

Engine mounts on chassis are different hmm so efi g13 wont be an easy bolt in? gay or are they in the same spot, so just need the 1.3 mounts?

Depending on models, diff flanges/transfer flanges different what models

A) 1.0 litre rear axles are the same strength as 1.3 axles. 1.0 front axles are a little bit weaker than 1.3 as the CV is smaller and the the inner axle has less splines where it goes into the CV. 1.3 NT front axles are a straight swap and add some strength.

1.0 housings are smaller than 1.3, and a bit weaker - Every 1.0 rear axlehousing I've seen has cracked around the rear Ubolts on the drivers side.

1.0 diff centres are smaller, which is good for ground clearance. The diff gears seem plenty strong enough, and it is possible to swap in 4.56 or 4.88 diff ratios from an LJ50 or 80.

Locker availability is difficult - I think lockrights are the only option.

Yes, you can run WT axles once they have been converted to NT spacing. That's what was in my car until I went vitara rear, and is still what's in the front.

You need some parts though. On top of the axlehousings, you need a WT draglink, and need to sort out the driveshafts.

B) The engine mounts on the chassis are in the wrong positions for both sides. Christover on here made some adapter plates to move the engine mounts to the right position, (they have to move quite a long way) or cut the mounts off the chassis and reweld them in the right spot. This is a little bit tricky, mostly because the gearbox mount has to move too, so for at least part of the job, you loose all the reference points for where the motor and gearbox should be.

C) All suzuki built 1.0litres (I'm pretty sure yours is a japanese built car, not a Maruti) have a smaller driveshaft flange bolt pattern and spigot than all 1.3 engined cars and unique driveshafts. If you have a "4WD light" transfer case, you can swap the flanges over from a 1.3litre car. You can't swap pinion flanges, or the flanges from a "non 4WD light" case.

The smaller flanges also come with a different style of Uni. They have internal c-clips to hold the caps in, rather than external clips like the 1.3 cars. The unis are the same size, but the yokes are different. It is possible to make a "hybrid" uni that is 1/2 1.0 and 1/2 1.3, but this doesn't always work.

Hope this helps.

Steve.

hmmm thanks for that. So will i be right on 31's or do you think ill crack axle housing?

quite a bit different i see. how do i tell if i have a "4wd light" case

Seems a bit of stuffing around will be needed just for a gti engine. Might just do a ca18det or sr20de down the track and make it worth it. I really didnt want to turn this into a project car, just wanted something to have fun in, not something that will sit in the garage for half a year slowly getting worked on

[foolsp33d]

My 1.3 has a drain plug on the fuel tank..

[BlueSuzy]

Yours is not normal. Nor is it a suzuki.