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Grantlington
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 132 Location: Perth
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 Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:16 am |
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Does any one know where i could get a body lift kit for the vit?
im looking at about 2 inches or more if cost isnt that great.
also, approx pricing would be great too
Cheers
Grant
_________________
Suzuki's - It's not the size,
It's how you use th
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royce
omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:18 am |
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antt will know, I am pretty sure the vits are a bit more work than a sierra cause of the studs
I think 1inch is pretty easy to do and getting blocks is easier too, how big a tyre are you wanting to fit?
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Grantlington
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 132 Location: Perth
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:23 am |
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i just got 225/75/16 on at the moment.
i looking for a body lift for looks and so in the future i can put bigger tyres on because those 225's are about the biggest i can do now without having the tyre rub against the inside guard.
and also to give me a bit more front/rear overhang clearance
_________________
Suzuki's - It's not the size,
It's how you use th
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royce
omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:32 am |
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for looks and approach and departure suspension lift will be easier and better option
you already have a pretty big (by vit standard anyway) tyre on there, going next one up which would be a 31 would need they bodylift plus a steel GV front diff and possibly a rockhopper for it to be ok offroad
do they scrub now? where abouts? mine only srubbed on the back of the front guard and there are 2 easier ways to fix it, moving the wheels forward a bit and a big hammer  , I used the hammer and really once you stretch the plastic back to fit youd never know
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Grantlington
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 132 Location: Perth
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:41 am |
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i already have put bigger springs and shocks on it a while ago.
it is rubbing on the chassis on the inside of the front wheels at the back. also, the tyres JUST scrape on the roof of the wheel arch when i bottom out the suspension so that will help a bit too.
as yet - i am too chicken to take to it with a big hammer as it is still my baby and still looks half decent. (except the few dents)
i am just wondering what needs to be changed if i get the body lifted. and also the direct cost of the lift kit and the overall cost after modifying anything that needs it. approximately.
cheers for the quick reply too royce. you must of been on here right after i posted
_________________
Suzuki's - It's not the size,
It's how you use th
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royce
omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:56 am |
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only way to stop it rubbing on the chassis is bigger offset rims, which in a 16 dont exist  bodylift wont move the chassis in relation to the wheels
it would help with the wheel arch hitting, mine does that too, but
I'll fix it with bumpstop spacers (I can live with the reduced travel)
bodylift is a few hundred, look at suzisport and also www.calmini.com for an idea on what you need, plus there is also the legal bit to consider (I dont know what you need to do in WA)
you may have to modify your gearshifters, fuel filler pipe, steering shaft???
(pssst, antt, can you fill in the gaps, I have NFI on vits  )
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Grantlington
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 132 Location: Perth
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 1:09 am |
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so suzisport is still going? i sent them an email a while back but didnt get a reply.
im just wondering how much it would cost for freight to WA from california where calmini is. and also wether a lift kit from them would be legal here
_________________
Suzuki's - It's not the size,
It's how you use th
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antt
Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 387
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 2:39 am |
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i've got 2 inch bl in mine. like royce said, there are studs in the bottom of the body (except for the front two behind the bumper), not normal bolts. there are a couple of ways to do one
1- cut all the studs off and drill holes in floor to use normal bodylift blocks and bolts
2- use box section steel for the lift blocks, cut the stud in half, bolt it onto the top of the box, and use another bolt to bolt it to the chassis
3- get blocks that have a threaded insert in them that screw onto the studs, then another bolt goes up into the block from below the chassis mount.
1 & 2 are pretty dodgy, and the most illegal of the ways. 3 is what mine is. dunno where to get a kit though, as mine was 2nd hand from some guy on ol
with 2 inch, i didnt have to extend any fuel lines, or brake lines. just had to trim down the bottom of the tcase shifter knob, as it'd hit the floor and wouldnt go into gear properly
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Rick
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 25 Location: Brisbane
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Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 3:54 pm |
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Grantlington wrote: i already have put bigger springs and shocks on it a while ago.
it is rubbing on the chassis on the inside of the front wheels at the back. also, the tyres JUST scrape on the roof of the wheel arch when i bottom out the suspension so that will help a bit too.
as yet - i am too chicken to take to it with a big hammer as it is still my baby and still looks half decent. (except the few dents)
i am just wondering what needs to be changed if i get the body lifted. and also the direct cost of the lift kit and the overall cost after modifying anything that needs it. approximately.
cheers for the quick reply too royce. you must of been on here right after i posted
adjust your steering lock slightly, won't need much and will stop your tyres hitting on the chassis you won't even notice it when turning etc.
Ric
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