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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:14 am 
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So I put 6.5's in a month ago and I replaced the bearings and seals while I was at it.

I am having trouble with the rear output seal, I replaced it this afternoon and I think (not 100% sure) it's still leaking as when I got home I saw the usual drip on the bottom (it's raining though) and when I put the fingers in it it was oily and smelled like gear oil...

So, what the hell could be going wrong, It's got a brand new seal, the correct one too, I oiled the seal before I pushed it in, only tapped it in till it was sealed properly, what else is there to do?

The ONLY thing I know is amiss is that when I rebuilt the case, I had one final shim (1mm or less thickness) left over, which went right on the back of the rear output shaft between the last bearing and the case, but that shouldn't be the problem as it would only move the thing forward a touch and there is no play in the shaft as far as I can tell. Or, is this the entire problem says someone who has done it before?

The reason I didn't put it back in is because it wasn't in the instructions and I didn't realise till the case was locked back together (it was layed out on the parts board I had so I knew where it had come from) and it was such a thin shim I figured while it had been there for a reason, since it wasn't on the instructions it may have been unneccesary...

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:16 am 
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genuine seal or fit 2 non gen's.......

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:22 am 
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the locking collar that the seal seals on , is it possible its leaking out from underneath it ? i usually use a rtv sealer on the locking collar before i fit it.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:26 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
genuine seal or fit 2 non gen's.......


They make a genuine seal?

I thought the one that came out looked a little different to the ones the bearing shop gave me.

When I pulled the old one out today, there was no spring on it so I guessed that was the problem, till it leaked again!

Also, 2 seals won't hurt anything? I wondered about just pushing the second one in as well but thought better of it until hearing otherwise.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:28 am 
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losfer wrote:
the locking collar that the seal seals on , is it possible its leaking out from underneath it ? i usually use a rtv sealer on the locking collar before i fit it.


Locking collar?

All I know is the seal just pushes in and sits there, I was unaware there was anything for it to lock to? Unless by locking collar you mean the part of the case the seal seals on?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:38 pm 
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I found that only genuine seals would work for me, when I rebuilt my case.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:48 pm 
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Cheers lads, I'll go looking for a genuine seal!

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:01 am 
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Where did you get the seals from?

Aftermarket books can tell you the wrong size, Which could be an imperial size/metric size opposite to what you need. Enough to be .4mm out, you will get a leak. Alot of places do this for the front axle seals, and alot of people have problems! eg, 25.4(1") seal on a 25mm shaft. Not good.

Best bet, if you can't get genuine, which they will not be 'suzuki' anyway, measure the od of the shaft, Make sure you get a seal a tad smaller than this, and id retaining section, then go shopping for that size. Autopart Retailers/bearing/seal places will have a list of all sizes. Then you can get the right one to suit.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:33 am 
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Seal go in dead straight?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 4:09 am 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
Where did you get the seals from?

Aftermarket books can tell you the wrong size, Which could be an imperial size/metric size opposite to what you need. Enough to be .4mm out, you will get a leak. Alot of places do this for the front axle seals, and alot of people have problems! eg, 25.4(1") seal on a 25mm shaft. Not good.

Best bet, if you can't get genuine, which they will not be 'suzuki' anyway, measure the od of the shaft, Make sure you get a seal a tad smaller than this, and id retaining section, then go shopping for that size. Autopart Retailers/bearing/seal places will have a list of all sizes. Then you can get the right one to suit.


I got genuine last time I needed one...

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:42 am 
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Im not saying you didnt. Im saying recommended reference books can be wrong.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:04 am 
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Got it from a bearing shop, 50x7 with 38mm shaft iirc.

It was identical to the one that came in the lowrange kit with my 6.5 reduction gears and bearings.

I'll go searching for a genuine one, maybe it's slightly different

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:06 am 
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JrZook wrote:
Seal go in dead straight?


Pushed it in by hand (which I thought was odd to begin with) and yeh pretty much, I made sure it was exactly straight where it sat before I put the flange back on and the shaft back in.

It didn't leak till I took it for a spin.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:08 am 
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Teracis wrote:
JrZook wrote:
Seal go in dead straight?


Pushed it in by hand (which I thought was odd to begin with) and yeh pretty much, I made sure it was exactly straight where it sat before I put the flange back on and the shaft back in.

It didn't leak till I took it for a spin.


Hurmm so it pretty much just slopped in? :?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:15 am 
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JrZook wrote:
Teracis wrote:
JrZook wrote:
Seal go in dead straight?


Pushed it in by hand (which I thought was odd to begin with) and yeh pretty much, I made sure it was exactly straight where it sat before I put the flange back on and the shaft back in.

It didn't leak till I took it for a spin.


Hurmm so it pretty much just slopped in? :?


Well there was oil coming out so I pushed it in by hand at first, had to tap it in the final few mm but it was still way too easy I reckon. I only had the thing up on car ramps in the garage so it was not quite high enough at the back to get the oil level below the seal.

It was quite hard to get the original ones out when I rebuilt the case so maybe the new one is smaller and that's why it leaks...

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