[Rusho]

What other options are out there? What have you guys used? I would like to get a new, off the shelf type to replace the Vitara item.

Cheers

Rusho

[royce]

you could get that setup from lowrange and adapt the hoses to it

whats wrong with yours to want a new one?

[Rusho]

I think its slowly losing pressure. It is getting harder to steer at initial startup and after it sits for a while.

[royce]

mine does that, I call it a cold weather problem, IE ill worry about it if its still there in summer

the thingo that regulates the pressure in teh pump looks to be pretty hard to mess up and you also have to consider the valves in the box, if something is going on there it will be hard to steer

[mnemonix]

Could the relief spring lose tension resulting in a pressure drop?
Perhaps whack a washer under the spring and open up the relieve valve hole?

[Rusho]

mnemonix wrote:

Could the relief spring lose tension resulting in a pressure drop?
Perhaps whack a washer under the spring and open up the relieve valve hole?

That would be under the high pressure in hose??

[mnemonix]

http://www.zookdawg.com/tutorials/suzuk ... -pump-mod/
Written by our resident yankee, Skyman.

I haven't tried it myself, but perhaps it could be useful as a bandaid fix for your problem.

[royce]

mnemonix wrote:

http://www.zookdawg.com/tutorials/suzuki-power-steering-pump-mod/
Written by our resident yankee, Skyman.

I haven't tried it myself, but perhaps it could be useful as a bandaid fix for your problem.

That doesnt do anything but alter the pressure the switch grounds to tell the ECU to up the idle speed

the pressure control for the pump is inside the pump under the outlet fitting

[skyman]

Actually there's two ports under that cap, not just one.

I know it is the high pressure switch as well, but it does make a difference.

Drop a washer in there about twice the size of a penny, and see if it doesn't up your pressure. Shoot, a washer is all of 3 cents (probably free from your drawers).

If you are a skeptic don;t drill it, just toss a couple washers under the spring. only takes about ten minutes.

Now all of that being aid, i have seen more than one type of Suzuki P/S pump, and they look very much alike. Royce is it possible you have a different vit pump than the model we get over here?

[skyman]

You know I think I am going to do a a couple tests once we get some warm weather and see if I can prove or disprove your theory Royce.

I was told by the old guys at pirate how to do this mod, and did it before I installed the pump so I don't have eye witness proof I can get up on my soap box and shout about..

I sent the guys the article and they all agreed it is how it is done. My buddy put a washer in after he went to 37' on a corporate axle and said he noticed a big difference so I posted the write up.

I am running 33x12.50's and I am very happy with my shimmed pump and steering setup.

Ii am going to pull the washer when the weather clears up and run it it for a week, and then shim it with two washers after the week is over, so I can see for myself if it makes a difference. Then I will either hang my head in shame, or jump up on my soap box.

[steve]

Excellent skyman, nothing like a good old Mythbusters test!

Is there some way you can test the amount of pressure it takes to turn the wheel or something? ... like using a fish scale thingy?

[royce]

Have a look at the pic in this thread

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=21474

the thing with 2 hole and 4 hole labelled against it goes into a port that one side is the inlet of the pump and the other side the outlet, it can slide back and forward so once pressure builds too high on the outlet it uncovers the holes in this port and dumps fluid out

I pulled apart a pump to do the mod you mentioned to figure this out, there is no way those little holes are going to have any effect bypassing fluid to control pressure from something like a power steer pump, its jsut not enough flow

On the Saginaw? pumps you guys have on everything there is a pressure control spring mounted in a similar way, my mini even has the same for the engine oil pressure but in this case it doesnt seem to be what its there for when there is a heaps more complex looking valve in the pump

[skyman]

I see where you are at.I wonder why this was promoted by a pretty reputable guy inthe know.

I will still do a the test for S&G's ,but I am going to find a diagram, and pull my pump apart to see "what is what" too.

Thanks Royce appreciate the link.

[royce]

tell me what metric dimensions the washer needs to be and ill get some and even try it myself, for all I know that port feeds some sort of control line for the other thing

[skyman]

The washer thickness needs to be about twice the size of a penny. Hrmmp you pennies probably bigger than ours.

I wish I knew the exact dimensions, I just tossed in what I had in the tool box

I'll get out a tape tomorrow and tell you at least how thick it has 'ta be, maybe get an estimated diameter,

[steak_knife]

skyman wrote:

The washer thickness needs to be about twice the size of a penny. Hrmmp you pennies probably bigger than ours.

I wish I knew the exact dimensions, I just tossed in what I had in the tool box

I'll get out a tape tomorrow and tell you at least how thick it has 'ta be, maybe get an estimated diameter,

No penny's.....

[mnemonix]

Considering Australia began using decimal currency in 1966, the number of uses here familiar with exact dimensions of a penny would be small.

For the sake of it, a US penny (1 cent coin) is 1.55mm thick.
So a 3.1mm thick washer is a rough starting point.

[rick1970]

steve wrote:

Excellent skyman, nothing like a good old Mythbusters test!

Is there some way you can test the amount of pressure it takes to turn the wheel or something? ... like using a fish scale thingy?

Pressure guage in the pressure line from pump to box. If line pressure required to turn the wheels in any given situation is less then relief pressure of the pump, upping pump relief pressure is a pointless exercise. Orifice size would be for the pump flow output control. This would have no bearing on effort required to turn the wheel unless you can turn the steering wheel quick enough that the box requires more oil that the pump can deliver (unlikley). Add an assist ram and the displacement of the steering system would increase and you would then likley need to up the pumps delivered flow, but required line pressure would drop.

If upping pump output flow results in a decrease in steering effort, its likley your masking a problem like an internal leak in the box.

[rick1970]

steve wrote:

Excellent skyman, nothing like a good old Mythbusters test!

Is there some way you can test the amount of pressure it takes to turn the wheel or something? ... like using a fish scale thingy?

Pressure guage in the pressure line from pump to box. If line pressure required to turn the wheels in any given situation is less then relief pressure of the pump, upping pump relief pressure is a pointless exercise. Orifice size would be for the pump flow output control. This would have no bearing on effort required to turn the wheel unless you can turn the steering wheel quick enough that the box requires more oil that the pump can deliver (unlikley). Add an assist ram and the displacement of the steering system would increase and you would then likley need to up the pumps delivered flow, but required line pressure would drop.

If upping pump output flow results in a decrease in steering effort, its likley your masking a problem like an internal leak in the box.