[SuziBlu]

I am going to put a set of WT axles under my Maruti, but till I do, I wanna have less wobbles up front, got them near gone, but, they still there, and it shits me.

I recon as the King pins on the front right are NS, I know nothing at all about them, are they able to be re-tensioned, do I get new ones, or just bearings, pull them and regrease ?

If I get new, can I install them, corectly, how do I tension.

I have searched here, and on the net, all I can find is, if its king pins, fix them

I asume it king pins, when I have the wheel off the ground, I can grab the top and bottom and wriggle the tyre-wheel, and I just redid, yesterday, the wheel bearings, so its not that.

[zooky08]

Correct me if im wrong, a king pin bearings are just a tapered bearing
When you bolt the king pin down it pushes the bearing into a sleeve on your diff
It tensions by doing that I assume

[JrZook]

zooky08 wrote:

Correct me if im wrong, a king pin bearings are just a tapered bearing
When you bolt the king pin down it pushes the bearing into a sleeve on your diff
It tensions by doing that I assume

Correct!

The get the tension right you need to add/remove shims on the kingpin

[SuziBlu]

JrZook wrote:

The get the tension right you need to add/remove shims on the kingpin

That bit i get, but, how do I know the tension required. All the written stuff I can find just says tension with the use of shims. Means fuk all without knowing tension.

Where or how do I tension, using a rattle gun, tension wrench, on the 4 retainer bolts ??????

If mine are lose, can I take a shim out for tensioning, or do I need new.

Just saying add or remove shims is about as usefull as a boil on the arse.

[want33s]

Undo the four bolts and JUST pry the kingpin up a few millimetres to check if there is a shim (or two) fitted before you get carried away...
Kingpins are a service item and are usually installed with a shim or two.
As the bearings wear, as shim is removed to correct the preload on the bearing.
Not many (non suzuki) mechanics have spare shims laying around so if they get a car in for new KP bearings they usually don't have shims to replace.

If your car has shims you remove one at a time from top then bottom. Check the hub still swivels smoothly with no notchiness or play after removing each shim.
If your car has no shims and has play then your KP bearings need replacing and new shims should be acquired.

[SuziBlu]

want33s wrote:

Undo the four bolts and JUST pry the kingpin up a few millimetres to check if there is a shim (or two) fitted before you get carried away...
Kingpins are a service item and are usually installed with a shim or two.
As the bearings wear, as shim is removed to correct the preload on the bearing.
Not many (non suzuki) mechanics have spare shims laying around so if they get a car in for new KP bearings they usually don't have shims to replace.

If your car has shims you remove one at a time from top then bottom. Check the hub still swivels smoothly with no notchiness or play after removing each shim.
If your car has no shims and has play then your KP bearings need replacing and new shims should be acquired.

So IF there are shims, tensioning is a "feel" thing.

I can do that.

Jack car up, take wheel off ? undo the 4 retaining bolts, prize up, or down gently, see if there are shims, if so, take out smallest, retighten bolts, feel turning movement.

I'll give that a go.

Thanks mate.


ps, should I pull the king pin out and regrease ?

[sleeperzook]

There is actually a couple of set up procedures. One involves measuring tolerances and shimming to spec (but its not for the home handy man) and the other involves a spring gauge.

Basically you disconnect the steering arm, remove the wiper/felt from the back of the knuckle, make sure the 4 king pin bolts are correctly torqued and measure the force required to swivel the hub from the tie rod point with a force or spring gauge. You start with a few shims (i think they're available in .5, 1 and 1.5mm?and remove them until you get the right figures. Basically if you go for gold on new bearing without shims you run the risk of over tensioning the bearings and damaging the race, which could result it 'notchy' rotation, which is bad because free play can lead to amplify wobbles.

[sleeperzook]

[/quote] ps, should I pull the king pin out and regrease ?[/quote]

The king pin needs to come all the way out to remove a shim. Its just a pin with a couple of steps that pushes into the tapered bearing. the bearings themselves are between the hub and knuckles so they wont come out without removing the hub.

[royce]

the value is 1.0 - 1.8 kg starting torque

measured from the tie rod end mounting hole with teh scraper seals removed

if you plan on just nipping it up its best to check the bearings for signs of wear, as they dont really rotate a lot they tens to wear grooves into the races

[Teracis]

While we're talking about kingpins, if one was to have a wobble which he/she thought may be related to these, how long could it be left without fear of major damage (this does not include damage caused by loss of vehicle control :p)

In other words, if I've got a leak and a wobble in the front end of my zook, would it be worth doing all the bearings and seals and kingpins and knuckles and hubs at the same time?

Then all I'd have left are the rear wheel bearings and it would be aces!

[sleeperzook]

Teracis wrote:

While we're talking about kingpins, if one was to have a wobble which he/she thought may be related to these, how long could it be left without fear of major damage (this does not include damage caused by loss of vehicle control :p)

In other words, if I've got a leak and a wobble in the front end of my zook, would it be worth doing all the bearings and seals and kingpins and knuckles and hubs at the same time?

Then all I'd have left are the rear wheel bearings and it would be aces!

How longs a piece of string? I'm a 'while im in there ill do the lot' kinda guy. To do the king pin bearings its all got to come apart anyways, so for the price of a couple of wheel bearings and oil seals, plus some grease to repack the c.v's if your keen, I wouldnt want to pull it all apart twice!! lol.

I did mine a few weeks back and if I wasn't is such a hurry to get them done before a trip I'd have got them through weaves for sure. He can send you a kit at a good price.

[303zuke]

SuziBlu wrote:

JrZook wrote:

The get the tension right you need to add/remove shims on the kingpin

That bit i get, but, how do I know the tension required. All the written stuff I can find just says tension with the use of shims. Means fuk all without knowing tension.

Where or how do I tension, using a rattle gun, tension wrench, on the 4 retainer bolts ??????

Just saying add or remove shims is about as usefull as a boil on the arse.

If in doubt, read the Service manual! Pages 7, 11 and 21 to 22 explain what to do. (BTW, the process is the same for all leafy Suzukis, from LJ50 thru to SJ70 WT. Even shims are the same parts.)

The shims are available in two thicknesses, 0.5mm and 1.0mm, Genuine Parts numbers are:

45621-63000 is 0.5mm
45622-63000 is 1.0mm

Kingpin bearings are the same top and bottom, L and R. Aftermarket bearing number 30302.

[SuziBlu]

Thanks guys.

Will do a quick job on these, when I do the WT, everything will be new, so will go the full spring load route then.

[JrZook]

Teracis wrote:

While we're talking about kingpins, if one was to have a wobble which he/she thought may be related to these, how long could it be left without fear of major damage (this does not include damage caused by loss of vehicle control :p)

In other words, if I've got a leak and a wobble in the front end of my zook, would it be worth doing all the bearings and seals and kingpins and knuckles and hubs at the same time?

Then all I'd have left are the rear wheel bearings and it would be aces!

C'mon man that's just verging on dangerous and is hell dodgy!! I'd take the vehicle of the road as fix those bloody faults before it does get real bad and you loose control of it. Excuses like can't afford it atm, don't have the time, need the vehicle are all invalid as if it does cause an accident you'll be up for a lot more than just a swivel hub rebuild kit and a day off the road.

If you have a leaky knuckle, diff oil is generally passing through the axle seal and entering the knuckle and breaking down the grease. You'll have to clean all the crap out and re-grease it thus everything has got to come out anyway. The knuckle rebuild kit for both sides is ~120ish and replaces everything except the wheelbearings.

[Teracis]

It's not as bad as I may have made it sound, but will be doing it asap anyway as I don't like it leaking!

[ajsr]

JrZook wrote:

Teracis wrote:

While we're talking about kingpins, if one was to have a wobble which he/she thought may be related to these, how long could it be left without fear of major damage (this does not include damage caused by loss of vehicle control :p)

In other words, if I've got a leak and a wobble in the front end of my zook, would it be worth doing all the bearings and seals and kingpins and knuckles and hubs at the same time?

Then all I'd have left are the rear wheel bearings and it would be aces!

C'mon man that's just verging on dangerous and is hell dodgy!! I'd take the vehicle of the road as fix those bloody faults before it does get real bad and you loose control of it. Excuses like can't afford it atm, don't have the time, need the vehicle are all invalid as if it does cause an accident you'll be up for a lot more than just a swivel hub rebuild kit and a day off the road.

If you have a leaky knuckle, diff oil is generally passing through the axle seal and entering the knuckle and breaking down the grease. You'll have to clean all the crap out and re-grease it thus everything has got to come out anyway. The knuckle rebuild kit for both sides is ~120ish and replaces everything except the wheelbearings.

X2 If it see's the road make it safe

[SuziBlu]

[remydog05]

Just had a read through this.
Im about to put my WT front back together and its getting a birthday with new kit and wheel & king pin bearings.

but the kit didnt come with shims and they was no shims on the diff when taken apart.

Should I put some in? If so what size? Get them from weaves? About how much are they? etc etc

[mnemonix]

They come in .5 and 1mm sizes as far as I know.
About $1-$2 per shim. You'll get them from a dealership.
Could use anything up to half a dozen per side depending on clearances. It's a "suck it and see" scenario.