[sogone]

I've brought home a new zook with a heap of surface rust. No rust holes where's rusted threw which is why I brought it. However I have NFI about the procedure on rust repairing surface. I've wire wheeled it down so the rust is like that pock marked stuff like so:



Now do I keep taking it back to bare or should I get rust converter and convert, then bring it back again? Is that how it works?

[sierra35]

I personally would take it back to bare metal to try as best as possible to stop it from spreading..

[sogone]

Isn't that what rust converter does? Change it back to something work able to be cleaned up and painted?

[steve]

If you want to keep the car for a long long time maybe put a fair bit of time in?

I'd just use rust converter then spray tar on it, go 4wding, keep it for two years then it'll be wrecked by then and buy another one.

[sogone]

So bring it all the way back? Thanks Steve.

[tanshi]

checked the other side of the panel to make sure it didnt start there?

get rid of as much rust as you can and then rust convert it.

[sogone]

It's on the bonnet and the tops clear. I brought it back so it was pock marked but no rust in the pock marks.

[sogone]

[squibby]

steve wrote:

If you want to keep the car for a long long time maybe put a fair bit of time in?

I'd just use rust converter then spray tar on it, go 4wding, keep it for two years then it'll be wrecked by then and buy another one.

x2. there's a brandname 'KRUST' that stuff is good. Turns really deep flakey rust into a hard surface and you just paint over it for a rough and ready finish to keep you going for a couple of years. Tar over any rust under the car so that the Pink slip man can't see it.

You can also buy 'ammorite' paint that has rust treatment included. Comes in standard colours, white, black. It ain't pretty but it's hard and it stops the rust from spreading.

[Fatzook]

Yeah thats good. Just do as Steve said. Rust convert, then paint. Be carefull using a grinder to clean up rust on panels, as the heat generated can a) Warp the panel, or b) blister the paint on the other side.

[sogone]

Using one of them blue wire wheel drill attachments thing from bunnings. No grinders yet It's like in between a flapper disc and a wire wheel? That has blue cement stuff on it? Like a kitchen scourer.

[Fatzook]

sogone wrote:

Using one of them blue wire wheel drill attachments thing from bunnings. No grinders yet It's like in between a flapper disc and a wire wheel? That has blue cement stuff on it? Like a kitchen scourer.

Its still an abrasive. Just take it slowly.

[sogone]

Ok. Thanks for the advice. Almost done the drivers side sill. Bit more rust there. But only 2 the size of half a 5 cent piece? Where the tac welds were.

[shakes]

Fatzook wrote:

sogone wrote:

Using one of them blue wire wheel drill attachments thing from bunnings. No grinders yet It's like in between a flapper disc and a wire wheel? That has blue cement stuff on it? Like a kitchen scourer.

Its still an abrasive. Just take it slowly.

That and I found out the hard way how goddamn thin Sierra panels are, you might be taking paint off.... But you be taking away precious metals too

Sand, rust convert. If you have the patience/skill weld in replacement sections.

Check out a product called POR15 to seal it up with afterwards.

[hotrodhutto]

Definitely go with POR 15 used it many times, its the ducks nuts you dont even need to rust convert it just paint it on

[sogone]

It's all pretty awesome under the sil. Just those little holes I mentioned. Brought it back as far as I could. Just smashed it with rust convert. Where is POR15 available from? I was gonna use rust kill heavy duty primer after I'd converted it. Then bog to smooth it out, sand back and primer all over then paint. Sound about right?

[sogone]

Where'd all my rust experts bloody go.

[boostedbrick]

Those blue discs bunnings sell are the shit for removing rust and paint of flat stuff, but will heat up your panel up quickly..

As for Rust Kill heavy duty primer, make sure the surface is very clean and you allow 12hours between coats... For some reason that particular primer is very sensitive and fucks up easy... Maybe try a different primer...

I use Rainex rust converter, clean the area very well then prime and paint. The kill rust white top coat is the same colour as a stock white sierra.

[sogone]

I used rainex as well. The places will be thoroughly cleaned with turps and wax n grease remover. Then a coat of the heavy primer. Up here in the sun it'd probably only need a few hours. Not humid at all yet. Give it another good clean and another coat. Then filler to fill the pocks. Sand and clean. Primer. Then paint. Yes?

[boostedbrick]

Filler should really go onto metal not paint. Depending on how deep the marks are you could use some spray putty, which is really just a thick primer anyway. Or just fill over the primer, and probably not have an issue for quite a few years anyway.

[sogone]

Spray putty. I shall use this. It's my first paint job .