[sogone]

Ok, So i've searched, rock assault, chromo, double toughs. I can't seem to find much on Chromo CV's and axles.

I see there's a few links to locktup4x4.com however they don't go anywhere now. Will the ones from lowrange fit my WT 94 sierra? I saw a few references to them having WT diff's in their samurais, however I also saw a reference from dank saying that they are all NT delivered.

All I want to know is which chromo is everyone using, updated link to where you purchased it from and if there is any difference in brand.

I have a lock right in the front of my zook, haven't fucked an axle, I don't drive on rock and I run 31's. It'll be used for hunting trails, mud and that sorta shit. I do like to lean on my gear a bit.

Do you recommend me getting them?

[CairnsZook]

Read this.

It's about a quarter of the way down the page, under this thread.

[sogone]

Yes, I have read that. It still hasn't answered many of my questions.

[CairnsZook]

OK

I got mine from Lowrange.

They fit my 95 Sierra, but I have a rear locker in the front diff.
As you know the Chromos have a different spline count to the standard Sierra front diff side gears. (Other than that they slide straight in)


If you haven't broken anything, why do you want them?

[sogone]

I don't know if I need them, I'm asking for peoples opinions on if I will require them, or if it's worth while getting them so I don't fuck a stock one while out wheeling. Which is why I wrote my terrain, the fact I have a front locker and that I can be heavy footed.

Also i'm running a 6.5 case. Not sure if that will affect my current stock cv life span.

[tanshi]

there is a thread on the same page about whether they are worth it.

yes they are. do you want to spend the money, thats up to you

[sogone]

Yes,

I have read it. However, you lot like rocks and stuff. I don't do rocks. I'm after real world experience, without rocks, from people who are front locked without chromos, That might drive a similar terrain to me. If they've had any dramas.

Also spend the money on which ones? Your only focusing on a small portion of my question. All I can find is the rock assault ones, however in my search i've seen people talking about various brands, and some having the actual CV chomo and some just having the axle. Just after some links that work, as all the links i've clicked have come up to dead pages that no longer exist.

[suzukikid]

sogone wrote:

:lol:

I don't know if I need them, I'm asking for peoples opinions on if I will require them, or if it's worth while getting them so I don't fuck a stock one while out wheeling. Which is why I wrote my terrain, the fact I have a front locker and that I can be heavy footed.

Also i'm running a 6.5 case. Not sure if that will affect my current stock cv life span.

as in my other post....i did one on sunday with a front locker 6.5's....and wasnt even on the loud pedal....first one in 6 years though so im goin stock again and carrying a spare....if they break ill rip the diff out and go chromos

[sogone]

suzukikid wrote:

sogone wrote:

:lol:

I don't know if I need them, I'm asking for peoples opinions on if I will require them, or if it's worth while getting them so I don't fuck a stock one while out wheeling. Which is why I wrote my terrain, the fact I have a front locker and that I can be heavy footed.

Also i'm running a 6.5 case. Not sure if that will affect my current stock cv life span.

as in my other post....i did one on sunday with a front locker 6.5's....and wasnt even on the loud pedal....first one in 6 years though so im goin stock again and carrying a spare....if they break ill rip the diff out and go chromos

I did see this, just after a few more peoples opinion.

[BlueSuzy]

I only ever ran a rear locker and on rock, open front on 33's. Never needed chromo's.

i could of used twin locked 3ish times though. Hard tracks. Rock.

[tanshi]

spidertrax also do them but they are way more expensive

[sogone]

From the search results i did manage to find, there were a few mixed opinions on the difference between the spider trax and the rock assault? They all had the same 'specs' but apparently the spider trax cv is also chromo where as the rock assault it's just the axle that is chromo?

[tanshi]

no, rock assault are chromo cv and axle.

spider trax ones are supposed to be better designed / stronger, but so few people break the rock assault ones its probably not worth getting spider traxs ones

[SierraDan]

CairnsZook wrote:

OK

I got mine from Lowrange.

They fit my 95 Sierra, but I have a rear locker in the front diff.
As you know the Chromos have a different spline count to the standard Sierra front diff side gears. (Other than that they slide straight in)


If you haven't broken anything, why do you want them?

After you take the whole knuckle off, not just the hub like with standard CVs which are smaller.

[oozuk]

mine would break a C.V. every trip just about with 33's 4.19 transfer and 4.6 diff ratios and turbo, A lot of rock where i am.

I don't drive mine much but when i do i try to drive the big stuff, since going cromo's in the front and converting my airlocker to suit the new axle spline count I've never had a problem since

[Gwagensteve]

With a 6.5 case and luggy 31's you are at the limit of stock CV's. You might go OK, but get angry with it or get bound up and you will take one out. That's been our experience in Vic.

All aftermarket CV's and stub axles are the same - they all come from the same manufacturer.

The inner axles are the only bit that differs between the suppliers. My understanding is that Trail Gear are the lowest grade and spidertrax are the best. Do I think you will break TG inners? No, not with 31's. Would I buy TG axles? No. I'd by trail tough.

The trolley tug runs the first generation of trail tough doubeltoughs. The inner axles are made from average material by all accounts. These have been 100% reliable with Q78's, and the hub bolts have broken before the axles with the wheels straight ahead, as you'd expect.

I'd run them so you know you have one less thing to think about when you are pushing the car hard.

Steve.

PS my car runs the trail tough inners that were made by Jack Graff at CTM at the time DT's were quite expensive and TT started adding $100 per pair after I got mine because of the cost of the inners from CTM. They are really beautifully made and I am sure very strong, but they don't have to be any stronger than the hub bolts - and our experience has shown the "weakest" chromo inner axles are at least that strong.

[SierraDan]

At what point would the R&P become the weak link with other stronger than OEM driveline components on 33-35" tyres?

[Gwagensteve]

I've not seen a stock front R&P fail.

I've seen rears fail due to poor setup/wear and bouncing.

I think stock rear R&P and stock rear axles are closely matched in strength, the gears are slightly stronger than the axles, but if you are, say, auto and running 3.7 or 3.9 diffs then maybe the R&P will last even with stronger axles (like a floater) I'm not sure about 4.6 and 5.12 gears in the rear with HD axles.

In the front, hub bolts are weaker than the R&P in our conditions. I think that's excellent.

This feedback is all from cars 34" and up over 6-7 years.

[SierraDan]

So say you had chromoly CV's and axles, an ARB locker, 6.5's, 3.9 diffs, manual gearbox, true 35x12.5 tyres and Flogging it on dry rock.. Would you expect a hub/hub bolts to go bang first?

[Gwagensteve]

Rear axle first, then front hob bolts if the front was bound up. But 3.9's and 6.5 transfer aren't really enough reduction for 35's on dry rock IMHO.

Steve.

[SierraDan]

Yeah for sure, I'm just trying to get a real world idea of what breaks past a 33" tyre. Not a "trail gear says no, so no" type advice. Hilux diffs for under a 37" tyre seems pointless and a pain in the arse in my opinion.

[31zook]

SierraDan wrote:

Yeah for sure, I'm just trying to get a real world idea of what breaks past a 33" tyre. Not a "trail gear says no, so no" type advice. Hilux diffs for under a 37" tyre seems pointless and a pain in the arse in my opinion.

so you could run 36s up secret creek/rope rd on stock housings? and insane internals?

[Gwagensteve]

I don't know rope road, but the housings aren't relevant IMHO (except as added weight). If the axles/CV's are strong enough for the traction on hand then that's enough. Running a bigger, heavier housing and bigger/heavier shafts made form average material isn't smart.

For the front end, if hub bolt breakage is frequent, it might be possible to try 12.9's or a 10mm upgrade, and/or dowels, but then I think the R&P might get marginal.

In the rear, we've been breakage free on EN-26 floaters. I've seen these take some terrible bounces where the wheels visibly stop moving with revs on board - the have masses of flex in them, which is exactly what you want in a durable axle (and saves gears)

I'm looking at building Vitara rear based fronts to run stock width DT's but with a stronger housing and stronger gear set. These won't really work with NT spring spacing though.

Steve.

[sogone]

Gwagensteve wrote:

With a 6.5 case and luggy 31's you are at the limit of stock CV's. You might go OK, but get angry with it or get bound up and you will take one out. That's been our experience in Vic.

All aftermarket CV's and stub axles are the same - they all come from the same manufacturer.

The inner axles are the only bit that differs between the suppliers. My understanding is that Trail Gear are the lowest grade and spidertrax are the best. Do I think you will break TG inners? No, not with 31's. Would I buy TG axles? No. I'd by trail tough.

The trolley tug runs the first generation of trail tough doubeltoughs. The inner axles are made from average material by all accounts. These have been 100% reliable with Q78's, and the hub bolts have broken before the axles with the wheels straight ahead, as you'd expect.

I'd run them so you know you have one less thing to think about when you are pushing the car hard.

Steve.

PS my car runs the trail tough inners that were made by Jack Graff at CTM at the time DT's were quite expensive and TT started adding $100 per pair after I got mine because of the cost of the inners from CTM. They are really beautifully made and I am sure very strong, but they don't have to be any stronger than the hub bolts - and our experience has shown the "weakest" chromo inner axles are at least that strong.

Would switching to a 1 liter case make it last longer. Honestly. I don't think I need the reduction of. 6.5. They were just too cheap to pass up unassembled. Its got a 1.6 baleno coil pack motor in it now do powers not particularly a problem. What's your think on this?

[Gwagensteve]

Maybe, but it's not a win overall.

Yes, maximum torque at the wheels is reduced, but now you have to hit everything faster so you bounce and hop more, have to drop the clutch to get going on steep stuff etc.

In any case a 1.0 case isn't enough reduction for 31's. Aim for at least 60:1 as a guide for smooth control, which requires diff gears on top of a 1.0 case.

Steve.

[ball]

Shep drives similar terrain to what you would.

He is rough as guts

He has only broken one cv I think and I am pretty sure he was being silly at the time.

Just wait for the rough bastard to pipe up and offer his experiences.

[31zook]

All I'm saying is those who say you can run up to a certain size tyre on Sierra axles don't have much (stock) material inside. You can't say that your diffs or gregs or AJSR's are stock and reliable?

[SierraDan]

31zook wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

Yeah for sure, I'm just trying to get a real world idea of what breaks past a 33" tyre. Not a "trail gear says no, so no" type advice. Hilux diffs for under a 37" tyre seems pointless and a pain in the arse in my opinion.

so you could run 36s up secret creek/rope rd on stock housings? and insane internals?

I really don't know, neither do a lot of people. I wouldn't mind having a go testing it at Masters even.
I just wouldnt Put all that effort into putting lux diffs without going a bit wild with it. 35's are a small tyre in relation to our terrain these days.

[sogone]

ball wrote:

Shep drives similar terrain to what you would.

He is rough as guts

He has only broken one cv I think and I am pretty sure he was being silly at the time.

Just wait for the rough bastard to pipe up and offer his experiences.

The rough bastard isn't front locked but is he?

Steve, there is not much to hit mate. Just mud if I have to. What will a 1 liter case do to my low range with 31's? Is it close to 60:1?

[ball]

sogone wrote:

ball wrote:

Shep drives similar terrain to what you would.

He is rough as guts

He has only broken one cv I think and I am pretty sure he was being silly at the time.

Just wait for the rough bastard to pipe up and offer his experiences.

The rough bastard isn't front locked but is he?

Steve, there is not much to hit mate. Just mud if I have to. What will a 1 liter case do to my low range with 31's? Is it close to 60:1?

He used to have a front locker. Don't know if he still does. He changes parts as often as most people change their undies.