[jonno_racing]

ok so my jimny is my second suzuki now that the factory temp gauge go's to operating temp but No higher, i also think chrisovers vit does the same???
does any one know if its a sender or dash issue?
and also where is the dash temp sender on a g13bb? i had a quick look today but came up empty? the ecu one is on the thermostat.. or does that operate both?

Phil

[royce]

1 sender with 3 wires takes care of both

[jonno_racing]

thanks royce, any idea what wire does what??

so buy the lack of response you guys are telling me none of you have this same issue?

[BlueSuzy]

It will probably be a 3 wire temp sender?

One of those wires will probably go to the dash. I can't quite remember, doing my wiring now for my Balg16b..

So even if you think its overheating, it doesnt go over half? If it never goes over normal, Generally, Thats a good thing!

What makes you think its no good?

[royce]

whichever wire does the gauge is the same colour as all other suzukis, cant remember which though

Explain doesnt go over half? maybe its not getting hotter hence it doesnt move

Mine would rise when getting hot but didnt when the head was exploding and there was no coolant, funny enough it read operating temp, is that what you mean?

[jonno_racing]

temp gauge will read half, as in o/t, yet my sj80 AND jimny have both got hot and temp gauge not moved..

the coiler had boiled a few times (hence going to aftermarket gauges) but i dont want to do that in jimmy.
and a few days ago i discovered my clutch fan was stuffed, pulled up at superduki's place and it the overflow was boiling and steam everywhere... id call that HOT, yet gauge was dead on operating temp..
i know chrisover said his boiled and actually got that hot it spun a big end but his temp gauge sat dead on ot

surely i cant be the only one with this issue? how many people dont even know that there zook is getting hot?

[Fatzook]

Stop relying on the factory guauge for your readings. There is no scale marked on it, so the difference between operating temp and boiling could be a needle width for all you know.

Go buy a contact temp guage or infra-red thermometer and measure it properly. These would be usefull if kept in the car with you, so when you start to see the guage move, or smell coolant ( as you do with most cars running warm) you can pull over and probe it in a few different places and get an ACTUAL picture of whats going on.

[jonno_racing]

i under stand that pete, i have a infa gauge here somewhere for tuneing rc nitro cars...

however i just want it to WORK, the exact reason i bought a stock car and am keeping it reletivaly stock.

[Fatzook]

jonno_racing wrote:

i under stand that pete, i have a infa gauge here somewhere for tuneing rc nitro cars...

however i just want it to WORK, the exact reason i bought a stock car and am keeping it reletivaly stock.

Granted.

But you are doing mods that mess with the cooling system ( front bar, spotlights, more weight from accessories etc)

A stealthily mounted aftermaket temp guage won't give others the impression of a modded vehicle, but will allow you to check the actual temp when you need to.

[royce]

Fatzook wrote:

Stop relying on the factory guauge for your readings. There is no scale marked on it, so the difference between operating temp and boiling could be a needle width for all you know.

Go buy a contact temp guage or infra-red thermometer and measure it properly. These would be usefull if kept in the car with you, so when you start to see the guage move, or smell coolant ( as you do with most cars running warm) you can pull over and probe it in a few different places and get an ACTUAL picture of whats going on.

the gauge might read like that but it doesnt

Boiling after shut off isnt really running hot either

likewise any gauge that reads coolant temp is suss on these engines I reckon, like I said my gauge worked, but it was reading the cool water being pushed up from the block, wasnt circulating the head though

Get a cylinder head temp gauge like an engine watchdog or similar that attaches to the head with a thermocouple and doesnt measure coolant, its the only way to be sure

[Chop]

In my sierra it would normally sit about 1/3, but a few times out in 40 degree weather going slow in a convoy it let me know i needed to move and not sit still by going up above half closer to 2/3 on the guage.
So yes some do work. Even my lwb vitara would go higher than what i would call normal/the average in hotter weather in heavy traffic.

[jonno_racing]

for it to boil on shut off it would have to be over 92'.
even when I turned it back on it was dead on operating temp.
I actually killed a gti motor in my sj80 due to temp gauge not working.

I have a spair sender here, might try plug it in and heat it up and see what gauge does...

[fordem]

I think you'll find the reason the gauge doesn't let you know when the engine is overheating is that there's no coolant surrounding the sensor - it doesn't measure air temp very well - once you have enough coolant it will indicate an over temp condition, and this goes for aftermarket gauges as well.

I've seen the gauge on my 1.3 climb all the way to the red - so they will indicate a higher temp than normal (just about halfway).

[JrZook]

fordem wrote:

I think you'll find the reason the gauge doesn't let you know when the engine is overheating is that there's no coolant surrounding the sensor - it doesn't measure air temp very well - once you have enough coolant it will indicate an over temp condition, and this goes for aftermarket gauges as well.

I've seen the gauge on my 1.3 climb all the way to the red - so they will indicate a higher temp than normal (just about halfway).

x2

[jonno_racing]

sorry but no. where the sednder is there has to be coolent running past it its location is a choke point in the cooling system, so I'd there is any coolent in there and its flowing the gauge should read true. mine has not actually boiled the overflow has but coolent out of the system will boil about 10' ish lower.
if there was just air going past the sender the gauge will drop not stay at ot.
on the sj80 you could watch the speco gauge slowly go up till boiling point 110' ish but the factory gauge sat at ot, I have a pretty good feeling the Jim is the same.

the situation of the gauge not going up is only in extreme boiling. from a blown head etc.

I have also watched the gauges on my old zooks climb in2 the red before, what im saying is that my jimny one doesent.

[royce]

go pull your fan belt off and let it idle, $100 says the needle goes to red before it dumps the coolant and blows the head

See what I am saying here? when shit goes south with these engines coolant temp means nothing, this is why I have a head with 20cm long cracks in it, gauge not once went past 2/3's cause the coolant that was still in there wasnt hot

[fordem]

jonno_racing wrote:

for it to boil on shut off it would have to be over 92'.

All it needs to boil on shut off is a hot spot - circulation stops - localised heating occurs a bubble of steam forms and voila.

[JrZook]

royce wrote:

this is why I have a head with 20cm long cracks in it

Doesn't have anything to do with the thin head design at all?

[royce]

JrZook wrote:

royce wrote:

this is why I have a head with 20cm long cracks in it

Doesn't have anything to do with the thin head design at all?

Any head that isnt being cooled is going to crack, If I had known the head temp was rising with a thermocouple meter on the head I might of stopped before it was damaged, there was enough coolant being shoved up from the pump to make it look like it wasnt hot (which the coolant wasnt, cause most of its work is cooling the head)

[96coily]

My sj80 doesn't run hot even on the hottest WA days
gauge always reads appropiate to work being done
never runs over half way
I wonddering if you've got an air pocket in the head

Turn the ignition on and earth the temp sender wire ....it should read 100% off its tits hot
if it only shows operating temp the gauge is R/S

[steak_knife]

Mine didn't work under water... ( & upside down Miss Jane)

[ZookFan]

JrZook wrote:

fordem wrote:

I think you'll find the reason the gauge doesn't let you know when the engine is overheating is that there's no coolant surrounding the sensor - it doesn't measure air temp very well - once you have enough coolant it will indicate an over temp condition, and this goes for aftermarket gauges as well.

I've seen the gauge on my 1.3 climb all the way to the red - so they will indicate a higher temp than normal (just about halfway).

x2

X3 saw the red in my mum's old one

[royce]

Found out last night that at least on mine the gauge temp sender doesnt poke out into the coolant stream, its sits back in a hole in the manifold, which in my case was covered over in gunk

[jonno_racing]

royce wrote:

Found out last night that at least on mine the gauge temp sender doesnt poke out into the coolant stream, its sits back in a hole in the manifold, which in my case was covered over in gunk

I have been moving so havnt touched mine... I will look at mine this week. I'm pretty sure g13bb and g16b have a pretty similar inlet manifold, so chances are same issue!

[royce]

jonno_racing wrote:

royce wrote:

Found out last night that at least on mine the gauge temp sender doesnt poke out into the coolant stream, its sits back in a hole in the manifold, which in my case was covered over in gunk

I have been moving so havnt touched mine... I will look at mine this week. I'm pretty sure g13bb and g16b have a pretty similar inlet manifold, so chances are same issue!

G16b has a separate sender for gauge and ECU, my ECU one at least sticks well out

[christover1]

There is a 3rd temp sender on my G16B for the overheat cut off for air con.
Mines been bypassed, so I can use ac fan as extra cooling when needed.
Still comes on for air con.
I used that to place a separate sender for my stock temp guage,
so I could run after market and stock temp guages.

[96coily]

hahahahaha
My temp gauge was all over the place today
First time ever
Pulled the wire of the sender unit in the thermostat cleaned it and all fixed
teach me to say mine never mucks up

[steve]

You just really want another gadget in your car.

ooo they have marine versions aswell... http://enginewatchdog.com/contact.html

[royce]

No, I dont want to waste 2 days and $1000 again cause it lost some coolant!

[stocker]

In total agreement with Royce with regards to the Thermocouples' on the head! Its the easiest way to ACCURATELY measure the engine temperature, Another way is by fitting an Oil Pressure gauge, Or Oil temperature gauge.

A Coolant Temperature probe only works when its got coolant around it, hence if you drop a coolant hose it still read's like its fine and dandy, meanwhile your head is asking do you like your eggs sunny side up.

We were doing a little bit of research work on a friends Supercharged Landcruncher, and to much dismay the Gauge Operates at normal Temperature Between 75 Degree's and 95 Degrees Without so much as moving a poofteenth!

Fact of the matter is that Car manufacturers don't want people worrying about the temperature of their car, hence why there aren't Degree's marks printed on the gauges. C - Cold, H - Hot, and your looking for somewhere inbetween... seems pretty simple... just not very accurate...