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Of course you can go higher, there are plenty of cars here that are. Whether you'd want to is a completely different question.
The first problem with your setup, regardless of which car, is that the spacers are limiting your articulation. The lift as is will be improving your clearance under front diff and chassis/body, but you'll still find yourself lifting wheels easily, meaning no drive. Stock arms and struts means you actually have no more travel than stock, everything's just sitting a bit higher. In fact with stock struts (don't know about travel lengths of your rear shocks) you probably have less than stock travel. When you say 2" spacers are they physically 50mm tall? That would be lifting the front roughly 100mm, leaving F-all downtravel in stock struts. CV angles would be terrifying too...
If you really want to go higher than you are now the best option for a full setup is the 3" Calmini kit - there's one for sale on here at the moment you could make an offer on. Worth about a grand. To start with you can run the shocks and struts that come with the kit, though you may want to change them and the springs out later. The kit gives you new arms, bouncy bits, diff drops, pinion mount, ball joint spacer and strut spacer.
If you don't want to go the kit (I can't think of a good reason not too, but each to their own...) it gets complicated:
REAR:
- longer springs - TJ Wrangler for LWB (apparently, not sure anyone's tested these) or I ran GV lifted rears which were very firm but gave the height.
- longer shocks - commonwhore wagon or aftermarket
- ball-joint spacer - the ball joint is the first thing that will bind when the rear drops, spacer allows it to stay in original-ish position
- longer control arms if you want to fit 31" or bigger tyres, which would be a custom make.
FRONT:
- longer springs - Kings or similar, or GV
- longer struts - OME ($$$) or Dobinsons are about the only ones that are actually longer, or spacers are available. Strut mount flip will give you an extra inch or so, but you're looking beyond that
- diff drop brackets - necessary if you go any higher or your CVs will be on borrowed time. I'd even recommend them now.
- there's no physical reason you can't run standard front arms, but tyres will get close to arches and chassis, spring angles will get shonky, and castor would probably start to suffer
- steel diff housing - big lift and big tyres (and diff drop) will tear your standard diff housing to shreds pretty quickly. Find a steel housing and pinion (with mount) from an early V6 manual GV.
Realistically you'll probably spend more than a grand getting all the bits, so may as well buy the kit.
As for tyres - your current setup should fit 235/75s pretty comfortably - are you running standard rims? With the Cal kit or alternative 3" lift and your body lift, along with some hammering/cutting you'll get 31s under there on reasonable offset rims.
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