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Azza zook
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 9:23 pm Posts: 14
Vehicle: New to zooks
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:53 am |
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Hi guys was just wondering instead of buying the full highsteer kit will a 3" drop pitman arm do the same thing with my spring over need help asap so i can order it
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:09 am |
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It will help. Depends on your lift.
If you're trying to do SPOA on the cheap, you shouldn't do it.
_________________ mlm
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Azza zook
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 9:23 pm Posts: 14
Vehicle: New to zooks
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:15 am |
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Ive done the spring over already just need to fix the steer so you think go for a histeer kit?
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 12:12 pm |
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Yes .
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31zook
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 9242 Location: maito
Vehicle: <3 Edna <3
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 12:55 pm |
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You will still get bump steer with a dropped pitman arm, and running it from under the spring to over the spring will cause hassles when it flexes...
I'm pretty sure the snake racing knuckle was originally built on a bent sierra housing, so it chews out inner axle seals very quickly, and the LROR high steer kit bolts to the king pins and brake bolts. If your not engineering it buy the LROR high steer stuff. If you do end up engineering it and using the snake racing knuckle, you will either need to rebuild the front end every 5000kms, or get it machined again...
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Bucket

az supporter
Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 2191 Location: Vic
Vehicle: SJ50 hardtop!
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:04 pm |
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31zook wrote: You will still get bump steer with a dropped pitman arm, and running it from under the spring to over the spring will cause hassles when it flexes...
I'm pretty sure the snake racing knuckle was originally built on a bent sierra housing, so it chews out inner axle seals very quickly, and the LROR high steer kit bolts to the king pins and brake bolts. If your not engineering it buy the LROR high steer stuff. If you do end up engineering it and using the snake racing knuckle, you will either need to rebuild the front end every 5000kms, or get it machined again... I ran my secondhand snake racing knuckle for more then 5000kms and had no problems with leaking seals??
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:29 pm |
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Siq .
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rustyzook
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1092 Location: Tamworth- central coast
Vehicle: sierra
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:01 pm |
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there is a merc steering lnk that can be made fit, but prob no legal
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TWINCAM16
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:25 pm Posts: 75
Vehicle: 93 sierra, 1600twincam
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:23 pm |
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i heard the toyota torago has a steeriing arm that has the same spline as the vitara power steering box but is droped and good for lift kits? just hearsay tho 
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rustyzook
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1092 Location: Tamworth- central coast
Vehicle: sierra
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 Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:36 pm |
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drop arm still wont eliminate the need for histter or poor mans killer link (Z link cringe!) it wil just allow the steering arm to sit lower and flatter to fit the vit steering a wedge is needed correct me if im wrong ive never done it, ive heard jimny box bolts straight in, again never done it just something ive heard, fat zook or appsie or someone most likely can give you the info on this as i know appsie did the vit 1.6 on his black sierra but again i never have and dont know the merc arm bolts onto the knuckle some where but must me bent out to fit i know there used to be a zook around here that ran it and was engineered but no idea if its still can be done, here is the build no idea if there is info has been years since i looked at it viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2548&hilit=aerenandmel
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Azza zook
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 9:23 pm Posts: 14
Vehicle: New to zooks
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 Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:24 am |
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Ok thanks guys i appreciate the help
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neofitou
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 1088 Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: 00 Jimny, 63 Haffy
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 Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:15 am |
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Not answering the original question (certainly not with an orginal answer).
There is a real trend on Ausookers, the higher the post count the lower the sierra (with a few exceptions). If your going SPOA then do it really reallly well, or stop now and go back before its too late. Consider returning to SPUA rather than putting more into the SPOA and taking it out later anyway. up to 35s will fit before going SPOA.. bigger than that on a SWB and you will want to stretch and coil it or at least bigger diffs.
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13004 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:19 am |
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I'll add to that neo - lots and lots of the more experienced members of the board used to have SPOA cars, or have built them, but moved away from SPOA because they struggled with the compromises.
I have no doubt that a safe, strong car can be built SPOA. Alien's is a good example. However, that was a massive amount of work. Dan's comments are spot on. If you want to do a cheap SPOA, you shouldn't be doing it.
Steve.
PS I can confirm the snake knuckle isn't machined correctly and kills axle seals, and the merc arms are hack. Steering the car directly off the calliper bracket doesn't even sound right, don't you think? That's even before you take into account elongating a hole to make it fit. Z links are also poo. Sierra's bump steer too much when standard, let alone with 5" of lift. Hi Steer is the only acceptable way of correction IMHO.
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dono1

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2010 10:57 pm Posts: 566 Location: Mid North Coast NSW
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 Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:15 pm |
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My SWB sierra was SPOA when I got it ( I wish it wasn't) I got a Lowrange highsteer kit because the Z - link is WAY too dodgy! It's been 6 months and I am still fixing the previous owners shortcuts.Now I am waiting on custom driveshafts to be finished......
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Mitchie.1
Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:54 pm Posts: 89 Location: Toowoomba
Vehicle: A shed full of pieces so far
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 Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:47 pm |
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the rocky road kit looks like it maybe a bit better. it bolts to the king pin and the caliper mount.
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:02 am |
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Does it replace the knuckle cap like a hilux one? Or use longer bolts and sit on top?
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Mitchie.1
Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:54 pm Posts: 89 Location: Toowoomba
Vehicle: A shed full of pieces so far
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 Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:31 pm |
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ajsr

az supporter
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 3712 Location: melb
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 Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:42 pm |
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SierraDan wrote: Does it replace the knuckle cap like a hilux one? Or use longer bolts and sit on top? it replaces the king pin, its quite a good kit
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:25 pm |
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That's cool.
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:39 pm |
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the suzistore kit i run in my sierra, although not cheap, picks up the caliper bolts as well as the factory arms (the machined spacer between stock arm and hi-steer arm is missing in this pic):  its 100% engineered in WA (made from a specified grade of steel, no welding etc etc.) edit: Here's another pic:  If you want to see how much work went into my SPOA, check my build: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22354&hilit=UFO
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