hi all, getting 3'' coils soon just wondering once i lift the front up do i need to get extended brake lines, would be a good idea, but not strictly necessary
diff drop brackets even though im not changing my struts? would be a good idea, but not strictly necessary. You're not getting longer struts?
ive all ready got a 30mm lift and do i need a set of camber bolts? Yes
and for the rear i only need tail shaft spacer and upper a-arm spacer is that correct? Yep, longer shocks would be good too...

and for the rear brake lines just take the bolt off and that should hopefully give me enough length? (If you dont mind me using your photo DarkHorse)
No probs
any help appreciated THANKS!

What coils are u going to use
What length shocks
What struts
Fliped mount is like 30mn wich isnt realy enough
Longer struts are 40mm
I have big diff drop brackets and 70mm strut spacer which is max down that the cv can go
Any more and they snap If pushed hard
U will need longer rear brake line and diff breather or u will rip them off
A arm spacer is needed if u want the back to flex as the balljoint doesnt have much movement
But then ur gemotery is up the shit like mine which is y im now looking at moving the lowers aswell to keep the. Flat
3in lift is a lot of trial and error
MaKE sure u adjust ur steering stops or u well destroy cv's

All the after market struts are 40 mm wich is safe with out diffdrop

I've just fitted Dobinsons struts to my SV420 with 50mm lift, couldn't be happier. Eibach camber bolts, commodore shocks & shock relocators, and it all works well together. Cooper STT's in 225/45/16 on grand deep dish steels. Once you start, where do you stop?
Without the struts it wasn't nice at all, topping out even on the street.

Camber bolts - you can adjust yourself up to a point, but I'd recommend getting a full alignment done as soon as possible after you put the lift in. You'll also need to adjust your tie-rod to centre the steering up again (don't just take the steering wheel off and move it around a few splines.) Put car on wheels, it'll be very pigeon toed and your steering will be pulled to the right. It's a case of adjusting, rolling forward, adjusting etc etc etc until the wheels get close to straight. Then drive it to an alignment so i can get the tyre shop to do that? instead of me not exactly knowing how to do it

Steering stops - CVs crap themselves when they get power through them at nasty angles - horizontal as well as vertical (or in practice diagonal when both are in play.) With the lift you are putting them at greater angles to start with. Add full steering lock and the angle the CV is working at becomes pretty exaggerated. If you're running bigger (especially wider) tyres this will also help keep them off the chassis. yess if heard of many people doing that so it sounds like i should get diff drops aswell to be safe?

Lift alone isn't worth much without articulation - I'd strongly suggest longer shocks and struts.

Yep, get it to a shop. You may have to do a bit of tweaking to get it driveable though, so suss out how the tie-rod and camber bolts work as you do it (they're pretty straightforward if you take the time to have a look and a think.)

If you're going up 3" and with longer travel, yes I'd drop the diff. There is a theory that diff-drops will make your alloy front diff even more fragile, so if you can find a steel one from a GV...

Adjustable arms front or rear? Front no... rear I'm pretty sure the Calmini GV ones would work, but don't know anyone who's done it so can't say for sure. Someone like FatZook would be able to make some for you, but you'd be paying for the parts and the expertise. I've got an old set of stock arms that I'm going to chop and extend some time soon.

not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but i'd be looking into diff drop brackets.

That B4V bush should help things when you drop the diff, take the tension off the pinion.

The steel diffs are from a first gen (98-02 I think) manual V6 GV. There are two types of pinion mount that they come with, the earlier ones match the Vit one, and that bush. The later ones are different, but will still bolt up (bush won't work though.) You'll need to get your ring and pinion changed into the new 3rd.

Longer rear arms won't necessarily improve flex, that's more governed by the travel in your shocks. They will put the axle back closer to the centre of the wheel arches so you have less scrubbing issues with the massive rubber you'll be putting on