[shandy92]

Hey guys,

iv got a g16b in my vit with 220xxx and has been slapping for at least 40,xxxkm. it generally stops slapping after a warm up and i always wait a few minutes for it get warm but cant wait all day. The last 5,000-10,000km the slapping seems to be lasted longer but not necessarily worse, it will slap very lightly if under heavy load when warm (had to tow a coily 15km from out bush to home and could hear it lightly on hills). It blows no smoke and doesnt use any oil or coolant, reason why it hasnt been rebuilt yet.

im currently running penrite 15-w40 (everyday driver) and thinking about going to a thicker oil to "take up some slack". What do you think of that? and What would you recommend me running or even adding to the oil to help reduce it? i change the oil every 5 thou so its always kept pretty freshish.

i know that nothing will remove piston slap completely besides a rebuild but i just need something to keep it going a little longer. i have searched but only got a hand full of results and nothing that really helped.

thanks
Mitch

[royce]

I find it unusual that an engine with pistons worn enough to slap doesnt use oil

Sure its not tappets?

mine sounds exactly like it has piston slap pretty bad when cold, but rev it with the clutch in and its silent, you wouldnt think a gearbox could make such a similar noise

[alien]

em's engine does the same thing - its tappets... we just masked it with thicker oil =) lol

[Lockie666]

I'm agreeing with Royce here, sounds like tappets.

[shandy92]

Really? as in valve clearances? how much oil should an engine with slap use of 1000kms, roughly? i have a slight oil leak from the front c/s seal, over 5 thou it wil drop maybe 2-3mm on the dipstick.

my description of piston slap, was a tap or a knock which increased under load while cold and reduced when warm, this is how i would describe mine.

besides actually doing a valve set, what could i do to narrow it down? i tried revving it with the clutch in and it still made the noise, it definitely engine related not gearbox.

[Reubs]

shandy92 wrote:

how much oil should an engine with slap use of 1000kms, roughly? i have a slight oil leak from the front c/s seal, over 5 thou it wil drop maybe 2-3mm on the dipstick.

That's less oil consumption than any (even rebuilt) Suzuki G series engine I have owned...

On most of my engines I've probably tipped about 1.5 litres extra in over 5000km.

[alien]

Reubs wrote:

shandy92 wrote:

how much oil should an engine with slap use of 1000kms, roughly? i have a slight oil leak from the front c/s seal, over 5 thou it wil drop maybe 2-3mm on the dipstick.

That's less oil consumption than any (even rebuilt) Suzuki G series engine I have owned...

On most of my engines I've probably tipped about 1.5 litres extra in over 5000km.

really? my g16b doenst even drop 2mm on the dipstick between my services - although i do mine every 3 months, not 5000km (i do more like 3000km, but theyre revvy ones).

[whincup]

alien wrote:

em's engine does the same thing - its tappets... we just masked it with thicker oil =) lol

cost me $80 for a mechanic to fix mine... really not much more than buying new oil. but thats one way i didnt think of

[oozuk]

get the valve clearances adjusted first and then go from there.

Not a hard job.

[shandy92]

oozuk wrote:

get the valve clearances adjusted first and then go from there.

Not a hard job.

just had a look at the haynes manual and it says you need a special tool?? just had a look, is it some feeler gauge thing?

Reubs wrote:

That's less oil consumption than any (even rebuilt) Suzuki G series engine I have owned...

On most of my engines I've probably tipped about 1.5 litres extra in over 5000km.

are you sure? the dip stick only reads 600ml, that means that the level went to low 3.5 times before a service!

[Reubs]

shandy92 wrote:

Reubs wrote:

That's less oil consumption than any (even rebuilt) Suzuki G series engine I have owned...
On most of my engines I've probably tipped about 1.5 litres extra in over 5000km.

are you sure? the dip stick only reads 600ml, that means that the level went to low 3.5 times before a service!

Those figures are correct, but no my dipstick never gets to read 'low' - henceforth why you check the oil after every couple of tank loads of fuel or before any long trips.

My SWB Vit used about 1L between Perth and Brisbane. It was checked everyday (averaged 1100km/day) and needed a small topup to full level each time. My LWB Vit uses less than this although I couldn't tell you an exact figure.

[whincup]

mine has 250,000ks on it with no rebuild, compression reading of ~150, and never loses any noticeable amount of oil between my 5000km oil change intervals...

[Jester]

shandy92 wrote:

oozuk wrote:

get the valve clearances adjusted first and then go from there.

Not a hard job.

just had a look at the haynes manual and it says you need a special tool?? just had a look, is it some feeler gauge thing?

!

yep just a funky bent feeling gauge to get in there on the 16v head, is a bit fiddly on them 8v head so much easier but still an easy DIY job, easiest way i find to rock the valves is remove the plugs (cover holes with rag) put in gear and just push it back and forward to find the right points to adjust (just remember that no plugs is no compression so dont let it roll away)

[shandy92]

Jester wrote:

shandy92 wrote:

oozuk wrote:

get the valve clearances adjusted first and then go from there.

Not a hard job.

just had a look at the haynes manual and it says you need a special tool?? just had a look, is it some feeler gauge thing?

!

yep just a funky bent feeling gauge to get in there on the 16v head, is a bit fiddly on them 8v head so much easier but still an easy DIY job, easiest way i find to rock the valves is remove the plugs (cover holes with rag) put in gear and just push it back and forward to find the right points to adjust (just remember that no plugs is no compression so dont let it roll away)

ok thanks, couldnt you just put a socket on the crank pully and turn the motor that way? ahaha

[JrZook]

Yes. Most conventional way of doing it

[Jester]

JrZook wrote:

Yes. Most conventional way of doing it

yes i know, but its not so easy to get a bar on my crank bolt so this way is easier for me (cos mine had been set up with aftermarket aircon, and has a really bulky outer pulley)