Jimnys have that effect on ppl 
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| Jimny electrics fail! https://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34750 |
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| Author: | bigdogdazza [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Jimny electrics fail! |
Hmmm my wife drove the Jimny to work this morning and called me at 445am saying my Jimny is dead! Took her another car so she can keep the boss happy and I thought I would have a look at the beast, she reported all spotties came on,wipers went on lights went out engine shut down no reds nothing. Has to be electrical gremlins. Arrived popped the hood and main fuse 80a blown, quick dodgy fix of that now car turns over but not start, got interior light and r blinker nothing else..... Tow truck time and auto elec I think? I will have a look when I get it home probably fuel pump fuse gone along with others but the biggest concern is WHAT caused fuses to blow? Any advice where to start looking would be appreciated guys!!! |
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| Author: | Dr_Snapid [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
Crapsky dazza sounds like a hell of a gremlin. Love how this stuff happens when the missus is driving... murphys law I'd start by lookin at the alternator, follow the leads from the alternator back. I saw a car in bunnings catch fire a month or two ago when the alt failed! Hope ya find it and it isnt too expensive. |
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| Author: | bigdogdazza [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
Yup it's sitting in auto elec now.... 2 tow trucks later and I have a feeling it's all my lazy ass fault! I have done the 1hz cruiser alt upgrade but DIDN'T upgrade the cable from alt to battery nor did I wire the sensor wire from alt to battery and my battery light was always on. Brand new alternator and I have dual battery setup with battery volt display and once whilst I was coming home from work the volts went from 14.1 to 18+ I shut the car down immediately and when I restarted it all was fine..... Or was it? Replaced some blown fuses this morning and now cooling fan for aircon is on and stays on with car shut down no keys in it! Spotties work, compressor works, right blinker works, heater/aircon fan works, car will kick over but not start, nothing else works headlights, UHF, stereo, brake lights, etc...... I think this will be expensive unfortunately. My reduction transfer gears just turned up this morning and I am waiting on new clutch,gearbox,transfer case I bought to turn up, was going to tyre shop today to pick up 15x8 rims with 32" bighorns ready for the weekend after next...... Now maybe not! Laziness sucks and all my fault!! Lesson here for ALL who are contemplating the 120amp alternator upgrade..... Upgrade the wiring as well or BEWARE! |
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| Author: | Dr_Snapid [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
An auto elec will know more about this than I but here goes (you may also know more than me on this for all I know but here goes anyway LOL) Your alternator produces steady voltage at varying rpms by controlling how much voltage gets passed into the primary coil (i think its called primary). As revs climb and the output voltage exceeds 13.8 less voltage is fed into the primary coil which in turn reduces the output from the secondary coil and thereby regulating the output to stay the same at varying rpm. This is why engines curiousy have AC producing alternators when nothing in a car runs on AC.... it's because you can regulate them in this way whereas a DC generator would just produce more and more volts the higher the RPM As far as I can tell there should be no reason for any alternator to produce over-voltage because of wiring not being up to the current. It should only happen if too high a voltage is fed into the primary coil on the alternator, meaning that the secondary will produce more than 14 volts. Like I say I'm no expert but I doubt your factory wiring not being upgraded would be the cause of this... I'm putting this out there purely for discussion, not trying to diagnose your problem as such which would be futile I suspect. My job is boring today... |
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| Author: | Reubs [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
bigdogdazza wrote: WHAT caused fuses to blow? Any advice where to start looking would be appreciated guys!!! I'd be checking the main wire off the outpout post on the alternator... Reason for this is it is unfused except for the main fuse. Chances are it has been re-routed for an alternator upgrade and it has rubbed through the insualtion somewhere. It may have melted other wires in the loom also - making for a nice mess. When I did an alternator upgrade in my coily recently I replaced the alternator wiring with 25mm2 double insulated stuff. |
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| Author: | Blakey [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
Dr_Snapid wrote: An auto elec will know more about this than I but here goes (you may also know more than me on this for all I know but here goes anyway LOL) Your alternator produces steady voltage at varying rpms by controlling how much voltage gets passed into the primary coil (i think its called primary). As revs climb and the output voltage exceeds 13.8 less voltage is fed into the primary coil which in turn reduces the output from the secondary coil and thereby regulating the output to stay the same at varying rpm. This is why engines curiousy have AC producing alternators when nothing in a car runs on AC.... it's because you can regulate them in this way whereas a DC generator would just produce more and more volts the higher the RPM As far as I can tell there should be no reason for any alternator to produce over-voltage because of wiring not being up to the current. It should only happen if too high a voltage is fed into the primary coil on the alternator, meaning that the secondary will produce more than 14 volts. Like I say I'm no expert but I doubt your factory wiring not being upgraded would be the cause of this... I'm putting this out there purely for discussion, not trying to diagnose your problem as such which would be futile I suspect. My job is boring today... they also use a 3phase AC alternator because they are far more efficient then a DC generator even with the rectifying process. |
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| Author: | bigdogdazza [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
Latest update from sparky today is ecu is fried, a idle control part??? Under or side of throttle body is screwed, alternator clapped, every bloody fuse known to man is fried. If anyone has any idea of the part I mentioned under throttle body is called would help me heaps trying to order parts from wreckers. The sparky believes something to do with idle control? Man g13bb engined jimny. |
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| Author: | Sandez [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
Its unfortunate to hear about your Jim, sounds like it will be a beast in the near future. Can't help you out too much but this diagram might help. The 2 sensors often attached to the TB is the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve, or the TP (Throttle Position) sensor. Attachment: G13BB2.jpg
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| Author: | bigdogdazza [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
Thankyou sandez! That's the one idle air control! I think by the time I am finished with this jimny it will be the only 2012 built 98 model out there! Lol I have replaced or will be replacing Everything apart from the body and diff housings I reckon by the time it's done!! Getting there slowly and already have fallen in love with this little bush weapon, I have had v8s for the past 20+ years with the odd turbo rotary etc thrown in but something about this zook excites me! Lol |
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| Author: | Dr_Snapid [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Jimny electrics fail! |
| Jimnys have that effect on ppl
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