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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:54 pm 
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Im about to start working my flex, was just wondering what setup gets crazy good flex. I have 2 sus and 2 bl with 33s
I was thinking about the collapsable shackle things but they look dodgey. Is it possible to cut and reweld the spring mount on with a bit more distance with maybe extended shock hoops? Legalities isnt a big concern for me but has to be still a daily. Any picks would be appreciated or links to threads.:)

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:01 pm 
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ruf...

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:11 pm 
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Flat leafs

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:12 pm 
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Long leaves

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:22 pm 
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leaf springs that are shaped like coil springs & links

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:53 pm 
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If i remove packs in the front will it drop much or just sit lower?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:07 pm 
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Calmini springs flex alright, dont need stupid hillbilly shackles either

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:20 pm 
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Id sacrafice flex and not run drop shackles just to be more stable and predictable
To many rigs with them fitted get tired and take a nap from carrying them around...

On another note, bang for buck i wouldnt touch the suspension (other than maintainance)untill i was geared and twin locked

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:45 pm 
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pezz wrote:

i wouldnt touch the suspension (other than maintainance)untill i was geared and twin locked



Couldn't agree less.

Lockers are the last mod that should be done. Learning to pick the correct line is made infinately harder when you have traction aids.

Gears, then suspension.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:26 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
pezz wrote:

i wouldnt touch the suspension (other than maintainance)untill i was geared and twin locked



Couldn't agree less.

Lockers are the last mod that should be done. Learning to pick the correct line is made infinately harder when you have traction aids.

Gears, then suspension.



Sorry, rereading that i didnt word it to well...
if i were new to 4wding or new to small 4x4's i wouldnt recommend that... i would say, get out there and enjoy it in stock form. Get to learn it..

But for me, not being new to zooks or other 4x4's and knowing what i want from it... gears and lockers first

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:52 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
leaf springs that are shaped like coil springs & links

Armsup

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 3:22 am 
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pezz wrote:
But for me, not being new to zooks or other 4x4's and knowing what i want from it... gears and lockers first

x2

But I think he is a noob..
RUF and drop a leaf on each corner then drive it.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:33 am 
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And wheelbase affects measured articulation how?

Steve

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:33 am 
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If keeping legal is not an issue, do a RUF - 3/4 combo. Cheap easy flex if you can handle a welder. If your doing a ruf, you will have spare mains to do the 3/4. The 3/4 can be setup with a lock off for on road use..

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:35 am 
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is this flexy enough for you, RUF, narrow track the front spring spacing. Rebuild the mounts and the back and narrow the spring spacing more.
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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:57 pm 
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hillbilly wrote:
Gwagensteve wrote:
And wheelbase affects measured articulation how?


seems not too many swb vehicles placed well on the ramp at TT.....100+ looked to be an advantage ......from what i saw

Looks and RTI are very different.

90" wheelbase placed 1st on the ramp at Tuff Truck 2012.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:29 pm 
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If you want a good rti get some flop shackles!

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:36 pm 
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Flex is overrated if there is no weight on the dropped tyre, if there's nothing forcing it down there's no traction and its all for posing.

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Makes me want something similar

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 6:55 am 
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hillbilly wrote:
lj's are just on 77''......i got 29'' of lift,the v8 sierra is 108''wheel base , that gets 54'' lift......longer wheel base seems to help with the lift figures....so it seems


It might seem to the case, but it's not the case. If you're measuring how high a wheel can lift with the other three on the ground, wheelbase makes no difference* - it's just a measure of how many degrees each axle can articulate relative to the ground added together. It doesn't make any difference if the axles are 50" or 500" apart.

Don't confuse measured articulation with RTI though. RTI is the distance driven up a ramp of a set angle, divided by wheelbase. RTI is relative to wheelbase. For a car with108" of wheelbase to achieve an RTI of 1000, it has to have more articulation than a car with a wheelbase of 77". This is fair though - longer cars need more articulation to achieve the same capability as shorter cars. We already know that though because we drive Suzukis.

RTI was a measure developed by Four Wheeler Magazine in the 1990's to compare stock standard vehicles for their 4X4 of the year award. It's not what we're talking bout here.


What does make a really huge difference to measured articulation is track width. Make a car wider and it immediately articulates more, even if no other parts have changed.

*Here's the proviso - a car with a longer wheelbase will weight transfer less when one wheel is lifted, so it will load the tyres more evenly, and therefore achieve all the available flex in the suspension more easily. This isn't going to make all that much difference though if the suspension is well sorted.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:43 am 
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Chassis twist

Just thought I'd thrown that bad boy into the mix

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greenzook89 wrote:
31zook wrote:
Makes me want something similar

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:55 am 
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where do you think most of my flex comes from :D

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 11:50 am 
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tanshi wrote:
where do you think most of my flex comes from :D


x2.

This is why all LJ have abandoned their front body mounts, no body to flex then. :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:20 am 
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i run 6.1:1 sierra transfer case.
hopefully in the next two - three weeks i'll be twin airlocked with some more bar work.

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