It is currently Mon Aug 03, 2026 7:14 am
Board index » Talking About Stuff » Suzuki Talk



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 18 posts ] 
Author Message

Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:50 pm
Posts: 174
Vehicle: 96 Sierra Tintop swb nt coily

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 4:57 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
driving home today and i had no power. diagnosed the problem as the secondaries solenoid not switching. can anybody tell me where it swittches from?

 Profile  

Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
Posts: 13007
Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:14 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
There's a solenoid that switches the secondaries? I was pretty sure they were vacuum?

Steve.

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:50 pm
Posts: 174
Vehicle: 96 Sierra Tintop swb nt coily

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:37 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
they r but theres a small solenoid that control when it turns.
its maroon on the drivers side just below the air hat.

 Profile  

Offline
az supporter
az supporter
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:30 pm
Posts: 3461
Location: licking some windows
Vehicle: LJ20 LJ50

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:53 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
SO you looked at hem when you were stationary and they wernt operating????

You do realise that they only open when the engine gets under load. May I suggest getting a friend to watch them and load the engine up by putting it in first gear pushing as hard as you can on the brakes and then bring the clutch up slowly getting the engine to bog down and then see if they do anyting.

_________________
Camels have nice toes

 Profile  

Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
Posts: 13007
Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:55 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
I've just checked the FSM.

The secondaries are 100% vacuum actuated once the throttle is open "nearly 51˚and the vacuum (in 'A' is as shown in the below figure exceeds -40mmAq"

There is NO solenoid or other electrical item associated with the secondaries. Honestly.

The maroon solenoid on the driver's side under the air hat is the idle up solenoid. It is referred to as "brown" in the FSM but I know the one you mean. Voltage is applied to this solenoid if the rear defogger, headlights, or heater blower is turned on, and it bumps the idle up.

If your secondaries aren't operating, odds are there's a vacuum leak to the actuator which is on the rear of the carby. Are they physically opening, or is it that the secondary jet is blocked?

Steve.

*phew* that's more carby talk than I've done for years. t head hurts. :D

 Profile  

Offline
az supporter
az supporter

Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:17 pm
Posts: 1286
Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: Swb Sierra twin lock 32s 6.5s

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:04 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
Easy fix you could try make it a mechanical secondaries as they do on Nikki carbs so it opens when the throtel is at a certain point it works good but may create a flat spot for when they open I haven't mucked around with the mikuni carb at all worth a shot

 Profile  

Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
Posts: 13007
Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:52 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
Would you recommend mech secondaries on a street driven car? Surely they are more of a race/strip part? They'd be hell for economy, no?

Steve.

 Profile  

Offline
az supporter
az supporter

Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:17 pm
Posts: 1286
Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: Swb Sierra twin lock 32s 6.5s

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:22 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
Gwagensteve wrote:
Would you recommend mech secondaries on a street driven car? Surely they are more of a race/strip part? They'd be hell for economy, no?

Steve.


I would yes it's more control for when they open takes some getttig used to but well worth it... Just a suggestion hahah all it should need is a screw to to activate the secondary shaft pretty simple....
But in saying of your fuel bill matters go get it rebuilt costs a bit but worth it in the end

 Profile  

Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:30 pm
Posts: 4268
Location: Eyre Peninsula

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:39 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
My 32/36 is mechanical secondary, on the vitara it averages just over 8 liters per hundred kays on the open road at a pretty steady 100kph, around the streets, bout 9.

I just fueled up, a tad shy of 300k and 25l to fill.

8.3 liters per hundred kay. Totally stock except for carb and coil.

Not sure what the syncro 38s are getting, done a couple of runs, shocking, been tuning by ear n bum, lots more power, not much stumble left, prob about 12 liters per hundred when driven at 100, WOT is a different story. Stock gears, 33s, few goodies to help it along.

 Profile  

Offline
omnipotent being
omnipotent being
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm
Posts: 17216
Location: Pluto

Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:30 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
Daves4wd wrote:
Gwagensteve wrote:
Would you recommend mech secondaries on a street driven car? Surely they are more of a race/strip part? They'd be hell for economy, no?

Steve.


I would yes it's more control for when they open takes some getttig used to but well worth it... Just a suggestion hahah all it should need is a screw to to activate the secondary shaft pretty simple....
But in saying of your fuel bill matters go get it rebuilt costs a bit but worth it in the end


this is really bad, all of a sudden the carb can flow a lot more air than the engine can deal with, airspeed in the venturies drops and it cant meter the fuel properly and gets all sorts of mixture dramas, so you get to go slower.

if you think the secondaries aren't opening, pull the vacuum hose off and plug the source and go for a drive, then you'll know all about slow

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:50 pm
Posts: 174
Vehicle: 96 Sierra Tintop swb nt coily

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:58 am 
Reply with quote Top  
ok dont i feel a little retarded...

my main issue is im now using quite a substantial amount of fuel. n this has only been a recent development. can anybody give me somewhere to start as to how to try n rectify or find the source of problem?

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:43 am
Posts: 685
Vehicle: 85 ' Drover

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:54 am 
Reply with quote Top  
hmmm id start at the basics.

clean clean clean to start with.

get some of that carby cleaner, take the air filter pipe off, start the engine, and spray carby cleaner into the carby with engine on. Get it shiny shiny clean! you will need to get on the throttle and keep the engine going as the carby cleaner tends to kill the engine a bit.

you can also turn engine off, spray carby cleaner everywhere in the carb, then start the engine (it will be hard to start) and carefully put your hand over the carby inlet, VERY carefully. this creates huge vaccuum in the carby and will pull any dirty/grit out of the carby into the engine. once again be careful, as it will be a huge sucking force on your hand. you dont have to completely seal it, just enough to get some more vacuum in the carby/inlet.

Once you done that, check to make sure any of the millions of vac pips arent loose or cracked, they go hard over time, and dont seal as well on where they are supposed to go. i just pulled the inlet manifold off my g13a, and pretty much all the vac pipes are rock hard i cant imagine they are sealing very well. im going to buy a few metres of vac line and just replace them all.

And hopefully in all of this you find a problem.

 Profile  

Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
Posts: 13007
Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:04 am 
Reply with quote Top  
Sound advice.

Steve.

 Profile  

Offline
az supporter
az supporter
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:30 pm
Posts: 7717
Location: Brisbane

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:22 am 
Reply with quote Top  
replace them all one at a time.
really easy to loose where they go other wise.!!!!

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:43 am
Posts: 685
Vehicle: 85 ' Drover

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:57 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
Also i just had a random throught.

does your carby have auto choke? do these stick on?

if its stuck on that would use a fair chunk of petrol and go very slow doing it.

 Profile  

Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm
Posts: 1088
Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: 00 Jimny, 63 Haffy

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:09 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
I think Steve125's sierra has some solenoid on the secondary, it was faulty and he couldnt get a replacement. So maybe some carbies do have them?

 Profile WWW  

Offline
az supporter
az supporter

Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:17 pm
Posts: 1286
Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: Swb Sierra twin lock 32s 6.5s

Post Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:21 pm 
Reply with quote Top  
Vacuum seconderys are activated by a diaphragm?? (Haven't got the book on me to have a look) if I am correct and if it is it could have a small hole in it

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:50 pm
Posts: 174
Vehicle: 96 Sierra Tintop swb nt coily

Post Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:03 am 
Reply with quote Top  
thanks for all the advice fella's. its on the market to be sold so its booked in for a complete carby overhaul and tune. not gonna sell a car that has had a quick fix done,especially with a brand new motor.

 Profile  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 18 posts ] 

Jump to:  


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: gbcrown and 1144 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum
Untitled Document


Untitled Document


Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group :: Style based on FI Subice by phpBBservice.nl :: All times are UTC + 9:30 hours