[JrZook]

Gday all,
I have a 85 drover swb, and just wondering if they do have a proportioning valve or just a 5 way joint. I have front brake probs ie the rears will lock but the fronts are weak. I have a new master cylinder, new rear cylinders/shoes, kitted the front calipiers/pads. Any suggestions would be great. Also i cant get a high pedal either. What other adjustments can i make??
Cheers Dan

[royce]

I am pretty sure the ones running twin pipes to the rear have a proportioning valve in the joint up front

BUT

they reduce pressure to the rear, not the front, EVER

sounds to me like you still have air in a line somewhere or the front callipers are too stiff

start at the master cyl and clamp one hose at a time till the pedal comes good, theres where you air or bad adjustment is

if its bad from the start then re bleed the master cyl, engine off and crack the pipes and pump slowly till you get good fluid out

never hurts to crack all the nipples and just let it grasvity bleed too, fixes things sometimes

[JrZook]

royce wrote:

I am pretty sure the ones running twin pipes to the rear have a proportioning valve in the joint up front

BUT

they reduce pressure to the rear, not the front, EVER

sounds to me like you still have air in a line somewhere or the front callipers are too stiff

Yea the calipier slides arnt seized, moves freely, but im just wondering if the valve is actually starting to act funky. ie sticky?

royce wrote:

I am pretty sure the ones running twin pipes to the rear have a proportioning valve in the joint up front

BUT

they reduce pressure to the rear, not the front, EVER

sounds to me like you still have air in a line somewhere or the front callipers are too stiff

start at the master cyl and clamp one hose at a time till the pedal comes good, theres where you air or bad adjustment is

Tell me more about this 'bad adjustment'. What other adjustments can i make to the booster/master cylinder ie pushrod

Cheers Dan

[royce]

you cant and dont try to rig something to do so, youll just smoke brakes

low pedal is only caused by air compressing or pads / shoes taking too long to contact the disc / drum

are the pads and shoes new? how long have they been on? have they bedded in?

did you get the drums machined and the shoes radiussed ground to match? if not that will give a crap pedal

[JrZook]

royce wrote:

you cant and dont try to rig something to do so, youll just smoke brakes

low pedal is only caused by air compressing or pads / shoes taking too long to contact the disc / drum

are the pads and shoes new? how long have they been on? have they bedded in?

did you get the drums machined and the shoes radiussed ground to match? if not that will give a crap pedal

Hey Royce the, shoes pads are about 5k old and only road work, no mud. Shoes were matched to the drum. I have adjusted the rears as tight as possiable whilst still being able to get the drum on. The pedal does gain height when the fronts are blocked off but still it is quite low.

Now the adjustment i was questioning about was with the pedal to booster. Is there any such thing and is it easish to reach? Cause it just seems like the booster isnt really pulling the brakes on hard, like other serrias. The booster is not leaking or sucking any air. When i turn the engine off i still get about 3 pumps out of it. Dunno what else it could be, as i said b4 the calipiers have been kitted, with all the slides renewed and greased.
Thanks for your help
Cheers Dan

[royce]

you could see if there is any free play in the pushrod from pedal to booster but there wont be

if you clamp the lines from body to chassis under the mastercyl does it come good?

does your valve up near the back diff have a bleed nipple on it? is so bleed that too

sounds like air in the mastercyl to me still