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bigrig91
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1308 Location: Redcliffe
Vehicle: 96 LWB Vit, 2.5L powerhouse
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 6:44 pm |
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I start building my cage this Sat morning. Am lucky enough to be doing it at a shop where the guys have done quite a few before so i will have plenty of advice from them. I just wanted some personal preferences on it.
I will be building a 6 point cage. A main hoop out of 44.5mm CDS with a diagonal brace. Two rear stays made out of 38mm CDS in either an x shape or straight back to the rear floor. A harness bar once i work out the degrees etc. A bar running along each side of the roof line and down the a pillar through the dash and to the floor. An upper and lower windscreen bar.
That was all i was thinking at the moment. Should i put side bars along the door? Should i put a brace between the two front to back roof bars above my head also?
I am planning on building the cage and tack welding most of it together and leaving it up to the professionals to mount it to the floor and fully weld it. What do you guys think?
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WestVic-Zook
Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:58 am Posts: 121 Location: Warrnambool, VIC
Vehicle: Zook Monster Truck
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 6:57 pm |
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is your intention of the vehicle is to comp it or not
if comp go a CCDA spec cage if not into racing just make sure its welded to the floor and build it how ever you choose
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bigrig91
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1308 Location: Redcliffe
Vehicle: 96 LWB Vit, 2.5L powerhouse
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:03 pm |
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Yeah just entry level competitions. It will be built to CAMS spec. The basic spec is what i stated above but while im building it with all the gear i might as well make it as good as it can be!
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Red89
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 2801 Location: Perth
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:08 pm |
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bigrig91
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1308 Location: Redcliffe
Vehicle: 96 LWB Vit, 2.5L powerhouse
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:12 pm |
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Red89 wrote: This is what mine was based on and it held up to a lot of abuse. http://www.ccda4wd.com.au/images/Rollov ... 060428.pdfI had no lower windscreen bar and no bar across the doorway. Thanks heaps mate thats perfect. I was wondering if you build the main hoop first and work from there or start from the front and work backwards..
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31zook
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 9242 Location: maito
Vehicle: <3 Edna <3
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:18 pm |
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Not that I've really looked at much come and CCDA ruling, but as TT has gone all 1.75 Tube I can't see it being long till other comps start following...
Not cause TT is the bench mark, just something I can see coming...
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Red89
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 2801 Location: Perth
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:30 pm |
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The guys who built mine started with the rear, my guess is you would need the B pillar in first and then mount everything else off that.  
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bigrig91
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1308 Location: Redcliffe
Vehicle: 96 LWB Vit, 2.5L powerhouse
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:32 pm |
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If i build it like that with the main hoop first then build the front stays off it i dont think i will be able to get the fucker out to powder coat it!!! HMMMM
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:34 pm |
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bigrig91 wrote: If i build it like that with the main hoop first then build the front stays off it i dont think i will be able to get the fucker out to powder coat it!!! HMMMM Its a vitara right? Just paint it in the car. You're going to have to cover it all with padding anyway, so why fuck around with powdercoating?
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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bigrig91
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1308 Location: Redcliffe
Vehicle: 96 LWB Vit, 2.5L powerhouse
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 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:38 pm |
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Fatzook wrote: bigrig91 wrote: If i build it like that with the main hoop first then build the front stays off it i dont think i will be able to get the fucker out to powder coat it!!! HMMMM Its a vitara right? Just paint it in the car. You're going to have to cover it all with padding anyway, so why fuck around with powdercoating? Yeah thats true i guess. Seems like a half a job sort of. Just rattle can it in there sounds good to me.
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 12:18 am |
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31zook wrote: Not that I've really looked at much come and CCDA ruling, but as TT has gone all 1.75 Tube I can't see it being long till other comps start following...
Not cause TT is the bench mark, just something I can see coming... Its always been that way. TT and other comps have always been lenient.. Rules havent changed.
_________________ mlm
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got_bar_work
Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 8:30 pm Posts: 2214 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SQ625
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 4:10 am |
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To weld it u will probly have to drop it down through the floor then pull it back up and plate the floor Try and weld tabs off to the body where ever u can It ties the body to the cage better so if it does seperate from the chassis its not just the 6 little floor plates holding it togetter Door bars are a pain to get in and out so if u dont need them i wouldnt put one in
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Teracis
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:03 pm Posts: 2261 Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: Daisy
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:14 am |
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Check out the fatzook built cage on daisy in my build thread. Considering he originally built it for himself and the workmanship is top notch I'd say it's adequate for my needs. That and it should be getting an exo to protect panels as well, albeit a light one.
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Zook_Fan

az supporter
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 4531 Location: Toowoomba
Vehicle: Maruti and LJ80's
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:02 am |
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SierraDan wrote: 31zook wrote: Not that I've really looked at much come and CCDA ruling, but as TT has gone all 1.75 Tube I can't see it being long till other comps start following...
Not cause TT is the bench mark, just something I can see coming... Its always been that way. TT and other comps have always been lenient.. Rules havent changed. Pretty sure the bench mark of safety in the offroad sporting industry is being driven by the Ultra4 rule book. Which has caging tube requirements structured around the weight of the rig. The rules haven't changed but TT is different to most requiring all 1.75" tube. Neither CCDA or CAMS require 1.75" tube for all of the cage members. Of course you can up spec and be covered by all of them but it's not necessary and is adding extra weight to the car.
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tanshi

az supporter
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 7717 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:10 am |
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i guarentee my 1.75 dom tube is lighter by a heap than my steampipe cage in my lj50.
it only a little bit more cost and i wont uses the cheap stuff again
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:11 am |
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Zook_Fan wrote: SierraDan wrote: 31zook wrote: Not that I've really looked at much come and CCDA ruling, but as TT has gone all 1.75 Tube I can't see it being long till other comps start following...
Not cause TT is the bench mark, just something I can see coming... Its always been that way. TT and other comps have always been lenient.. Rules havent changed. Pretty sure the bench mark of safety in the offroad sporting industry is being driven by the Ultra4 rule book. Which has caging tube requirements structured around the weight of the rig. The rules haven't changed but TT is different to most requiring all 1.75" tube. Neither CCDA or CAMS require 1.75" tube for all of the cage members. Of course you can up spec and be covered by all of them but it's not necessary and is adding extra weight to the car. Nah. 1.75″(44.45mm OD) Tube must be used for the b-pillar hoop, if the A&B Pillar are one piece, they must also be 1.75″. Including the cross Horizontal brace in the roof that joins the A to A & B to B-Pillar ( from left to right side of vehicle ) All other associated bracing is to be a minimum of 1.5″ OD 38.1mm.
_________________ mlm
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:12 am |
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tanshi wrote: i guarentee my 1.75 dom tube is lighter by a heap than my steampipe cage in my lj50.
it only a little bit more cost and i wont uses the cheap stuff again Yeah, the CDS stuff is so light!
_________________ mlm
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31zook
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 9242 Location: maito
Vehicle: <3 Edna <3
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:21 am |
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Zook_Fan wrote: SierraDan wrote: 31zook wrote: Not that I've really looked at much come and CCDA ruling, but as TT has gone all 1.75 Tube I can't see it being long till other comps start following...
Not cause TT is the bench mark, just something I can see coming... Its always been that way. TT and other comps have always been lenient.. Rules havent changed. Pretty sure the bench mark of safety in the offroad sporting industry is being driven by the Ultra4 rule book. Which has caging tube requirements structured around the weight of the rig. The rules haven't changed but TT is different to most requiring all 1.75" tube. Neither CCDA or CAMS require 1.75" tube for all of the cage members. Of course you can up spec and be covered by all of them but it's not necessary and is adding extra weight to the car. You would have to plan fairly well to build under a weight. Would be interesting to see how Ultra4s go in australia, some faster stuff would be cool as to watch. My only point was that if you want to compete for a while it might be worth building out of DOM not NB.
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Zook_Fan

az supporter
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 4531 Location: Toowoomba
Vehicle: Maruti and LJ80's
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:36 am |
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31zook wrote: Zook_Fan wrote: SierraDan wrote: 31zook wrote: Not that I've really looked at much come and CCDA ruling, but as TT has gone all 1.75 Tube I can't see it being long till other comps start following...
Not cause TT is the bench mark, just something I can see coming... Its always been that way. TT and other comps have always been lenient.. Rules havent changed. Pretty sure the bench mark of safety in the offroad sporting industry is being driven by the Ultra4 rule book. Which has caging tube requirements structured around the weight of the rig. The rules haven't changed but TT is different to most requiring all 1.75" tube. Neither CCDA or CAMS require 1.75" tube for all of the cage members. Of course you can up spec and be covered by all of them but it's not necessary and is adding extra weight to the car. You would have to plan fairly well to build under a weight. Would be interesting to see how Ultra4s go in australia, some faster stuff would be cool as to watch. My only point was that if you want to compete for a while it might be worth building out of DOM not NB. Unless it has been delayed the first race of the Aust4 was set to race in June, will be good to see how it takes off though. But for sure, no matter what you're doing throw the pipe over your shoulder and use tube for cages. The OP has already stated he's using CDS though so he's got that covered 
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bigrig91
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1308 Location: Redcliffe
Vehicle: 96 LWB Vit, 2.5L powerhouse
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:34 pm |
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got_bar_work wrote: To weld it u will probly have to drop it down through the floor then pull it back up and plate the floor Try and weld tabs off to the body where ever u can It ties the body to the cage better so if it does seperate from the chassis its not just the 6 little floor plates holding it togetter Door bars are a pain to get in and out so if u dont need them i wouldnt put one in Yeah the sequence on how to weld it is a bit of a head fuck. Half thinking of ripping the roof off so i can tack it together and walk it out and weld it up. Yeah will be doing those tabs up the b piller and maybe up the a piller. Picked up all my CDS 44.5mm this arvo. I got 18m of it for $300 which is pretty cheap. Few plans have changed though so not getting stuck into the cage just yet.
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atari4x4

az supporter
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:30 pm Posts: 34842 Location: East Radelayed
Vehicle: SV420+SV620 Vitara's
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 Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:01 pm |
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if you think removing the roof is a good idea, you need to do some more research. the common thing to do is build the cage short & then box in the floor mounts to bring it up to the right height.   you could possibly punch it thru the floor & patch it up but the above method is what cams and CCDA like to see. having the cage mounted on more than one plain makes a heap of difference to overall strength removing the roof is a bad idea. 
_________________ You're just hating because you don't understand
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got_bar_work
Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 8:30 pm Posts: 2214 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SQ625
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 Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:12 am |
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That a heap better way of doing it
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