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az supporter
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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:09 am 
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Well i got a pair of diffs in the backyard doing shit all and i thought i should check there ratio and condition of the centres, and get an over all understanding of the condition of the internals. Just wondering how long it should take to get them down to the centres? I have the haynes manual and the wsm to go by but it is pretty straight forward isnt it? What things might come up to slow the process down? oh and the diffs arent on a vehicle

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:12 am 
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youll need some way of securing the housing to get the rears out but maybe 20mins for rear and 30 mins for front to have the centres on the ground

now I know you want to fiddle but if everything turns smooth dont touch em, unless you plan on rebuilding and resealing them or they will jsut rust and fill up with dirt and turn to shit

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:14 am 
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no i dont want to fiddle with them just simple get it to centre, check them, take some pics, and either put them back in the diff or leave them in a clean container and see if any one wants a pair of centres

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:49 am 
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full diffs are worth more, centres are half the price and cv's are only worth $20 or so

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:51 am 
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if you have air tools it is less then 5 min to get a front center out.
remove the drag link,pull the king pins out and smash the hub assembly out.
the axle will come out with the hub. do the same for the other side.
undo the bolts holding the center in then give it a kick. should fall on the ground if not pull the axles out a bit more. count the teeth on the crown wheel
41=3.7 43=3.9
as long as the wheel bearings are not glued in the back is just as quick

and remember air tools are almost as good as boobies :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:00 am 
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royce wrote:
full diffs are worth more, centres are half the price and cv's are only worth $20 or so


Full diffs are worth more if you can sell them and i am in the sort of location that it is highly unlikely that someone will want a full NT diff because of frieght.

shep wrote:
and remember air tools are almost as good as boobies


i have air tools as well as a hydrolic press :D anything needed to be pulled apart has its chance, then it gets squished apart (or together depending how i angry i get 8))

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:07 am 
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shep wrote:
and remember air tools are almost as good as boobies


i have air tools as well as a hydrolic press :D anything needed to be pulled apart has its chance, then it gets squished apart (or together depending how i angry i get 8))[/quote]

I'd rather boobies :wink:

_________________
[quote="royce"] I wouldnt mind insulating my rear

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az supporter
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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:13 am 
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i dont see how you can compare the two:

Air Tools: Awesome makes jobs a lot EASIER

Boobies: Awesome but makes jobs a lot more COMPLICATED

Both great in there own area but you are comparing apples with oranges, suzuki's with jeeps, boobs with air tools you know what i mean :D

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:44 am 
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it is easy to compare the two.
i am old
i have been married for ever
:lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:46 am 
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if you keep the R&P as matched pair's and they are 3.9
slap them in a box and i will pay for the whole diff.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:50 am 
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mkay i really hope they are now

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:51 pm 
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well good news shep i know that the rear is a 43 tooth ring now just get onto the front!

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:56 pm 
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well hurry up then. :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 11:48 pm 
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yeah both are 3.9's and they are in excellant condition!! Just for the record if anyone ever searches and reads this other problems that may be encounted:

Stubborn axels - solution, silde hammer

Siezed nuts/bolts - air tools

that is about it... it went to plan and the diffs were better then i thought

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:16 am 
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sent ya a pm thingo mate.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:35 am 
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replied

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