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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:45 pm 
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I have a couple questions regarding them..

1. Mine moves to the left (if your sitting in it) of the car, even after i unbolt it up top and move it back to centre.

2. Whats the benefit of dropping it down to suit suspension lifts in my case.

3. Whats the benefit of the sway bar being adjustable.

I'm sure there are some others who have thought this before.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:52 pm 
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1. pretty sure it's due to the nature of the design of the front suspension, typically the panahrd rod. as the suspension compresses the points between the 2 mounts get longer pulling it to the left.

2. it would work more effectively, you could either drop the mounts on the chassis side or extend the links on the diff side (not 100% familiar with the jimny setup) the flatter it sits the more effective it will be eg. replicating the standard angle it sits on.

3. adjustable? as in being able to disconnect it = moar flex.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:10 pm 
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I've seen some that you can disconnect and some that have an adjustment nut in the centre, the same as adjustable panhard rods

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:58 pm 
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I threw mine away and it drives just fine without it

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:02 pm 
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Skippy wrote:
I've seen some that you can disconnect and some that have an adjustment nut in the centre, the same as adjustable panhard rods


i think that is some sort of disconnect mechanism, zukenutter has posted pics of them over the years. there isn't really anything to adjust on a standard road car style of swaybars, race cars have adjustable "blades" on the ends of the "torsion bar" that will adjust the rate of the bar but we're talking about proper tarmac race cars & a very different type of swaybar.

shep wrote:
I threw mine away and it drives just fine without it


Armsup

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:38 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i think that is some sort of disconnect mechanism, zukenutter has posted pics of them over the years. there isn't really anything to adjust on a standard road car style of swaybars, race cars have adjustable "blades" on the ends of the "torsion bar" that will adjust the rate of the bar but we're talking about proper tarmac race cars & a very different type of swaybar.

shep wrote:
I threw mine away and it drives just fine without it


Armsup




I've read what i could find on sway bar discussions previously and seems no one tried to make something or atleast let the rest of us know. somebody would know more about the function of sway bars on 4x4's like some of the guys who build custom rigs from the ground up or even a forum member who works in a suspension shop.

A few people have done the same thing shep but why would they put it on the car if it didn't work ?

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:43 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i think that is some sort of disconnect mechanism, zukenutter has posted pics of them over the years. there isn't really anything to adjust on a standard road car style of swaybars, race cars have adjustable "blades" on the ends of the "torsion bar" that will adjust the rate of the bar but we're talking about proper tarmac race cars & a very different type of swaybar.



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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:46 pm 
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Skippy wrote:
but why would they put it on the car if it didn't work ?


bcause they work to keep the car "more stable" on the road by "limiting" or restricting the suspension travel.

hence why by taking it off youll get more flex out of your front end

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:01 pm 
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Skippy wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
i think that is some sort of disconnect mechanism, zukenutter has posted pics of them over the years. there isn't really anything to adjust on a standard road car style of swaybars, race cars have adjustable "blades" on the ends of the "torsion bar" that will adjust the rate of the bar but we're talking about proper tarmac race cars & a very different type of swaybar.



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Skippy wrote:
I've seen some that you can disconnect and some that have an adjustment nut in the centre, the same as adjustable panhard rods


that pic isn't adjustable in the middle though, but same theory as the race car setup... moving the links to different bolt holes will increase or decrease it's effectiveness slightly, won't be like having it disconnected/connected & once set you probably wouldn't be bothered changing it for different terrain/conditions.

i had adjustable anti roll bars in my blue mk1 cortina & once set they were never touched again as you get used to the certain handling characteristics & drastically changing it can upset the balance.

this is the race car style of anti roll bar, where they use a torsion bar & the splined blades

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:07 pm 
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the offroaders version of that style is the currie anti rock style of swaybar
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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:13 pm 
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No its not but where you said adjustable "blades" i gathered that was what you meant. Thanks for the info Atari

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:19 pm 
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no drama's mate... see i'm not all negative. :cry:

just do what shep said or copy zukenutters set up :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:32 pm 
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Haha I saw that rant page.. one last question.... What would widening the sway bar do? Widening as in adding x amount to straight section of tube that bolts to the underside of the bumper/chassis

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:44 pm 
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it would reduce it's stiffness slightly due to giving it more length to twist. i think you'll have problems doing a cut & extend & weld on it due to the loads it will see. how ever in saying that the disconnecting swaybar pics that zukenutter has posted up had the swaybar cut in that straight section & a sleeve welded on with a pin going through it to lock it.

can't find the one that paul has posted but here is marat's (cz_ice) awesome green jimny, but i'm sure it's the same set up.
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viewtopic.php?f=4&t=25714

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:59 pm 
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I'll emerge from the "lurkers" just for a moment...

May I remind everyone of the APIO disconnectable sway bar. There's two different kinds, so I would enquire with APIO themselves if I were you to find out what is suitable.

TYPE 1
http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://item.rakuten.co.jp/apio/6300-33/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://item.rakuten.co.jp/apio/6300-33/%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3Dd7O%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official

TYPE 2
http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://item.rakuten.co.jp/apio/6300_31/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://item.rakuten.co.jp/apio/6300_31/%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3Dk7O%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official

And with that, my job here is done.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 6:12 pm 
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same idea as the one i posted above & i think it's the one that zukenutter has posted before, but probably mega bucks by the time you get it landed here.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Have seen those before.

Look very similar. Seems to me that the 33 is for a taller lift.

I have contacted APIO in the past about their gearsets with no reply.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 6:33 pm 
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This was more for curiosity but if I wanted to make this I would get one bent up from a thicker metal tube to the same as the original, cut it down the center and add the disconnect and maybe upgrade the ball joints.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:05 pm 
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Its not just standard steel. I believe its at the very least, a form of spring steel.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:34 pm 
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I'll have a talk to a guy at work and see if he can get it. he seems to get out of the ordinary metals

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