[buzbox]

How do I go about replacing the rear diff pinion seal?

Is it:
Remove tailshaft
Remove the centre pinion nut
Then the round thingy that the tailshaft bolts to - how do i get it off? hammer time?
Pry the seal out.

reassemble.

tips or tricks?

[SierraDan]

Buy new crush sleeve and seal.
Remove tailshaft
Remove the centre pinion nut
Then the Flange with your fingers
Pry the seal out.
Replace the crush sleeve.
replace the seal.

reassemble. with the pinion flange nut torqued up to FSM specs.

tips or tricks?

a lot of awesome rattle gun or leverage.

[SierraDan]

and torque wrench.

[buzbox]

Forgot to mention for a vitara, I presume it is the same proceedure?

I can only find a replacement seal, no crush sleave.

Can it just be tighten to FT, until the locking tag lines up?
I don't have a torque wrench... anymore

[SierraDan]

Depends how dodgy you want to be. Not sure about vitara's, but the crush sleeve sets the pinion's positioning in the centre. If its not right you'll fuck something up.

My crush sleeve crushed too much due to a heap of load through the driveline, so my pinion was in the wrong spot and found a weak point. Same thing if its not setup right.

[buzbox]

hmm don't wanna do that.

[want33s]

SierraDan wrote:

Buy new crush sleeve and seal.
Remove tailshaft
Remove the centre pinion nut
Then the Flange with your fingers
Pry the seal out.
Replace the crush sleeve.
replace the seal.

reassemble. with the pinion flange nut torqued up to FSM specs.

tips or tricks?

a lot of awesome rattle gun or leverage.

A new crush tube isn't necessary..
Look in just about any car workshop manual and they all have basically the same procedure.
Remove tailshaft.
Mark pinion nut, shaft and flange.
Remove nut.
Remove flange with a puller.
R&R seal.
Reassemble.

[ROAR99]

want33s wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

Buy new crush sleeve and seal.
Remove tailshaft
Remove the centre pinion nut
Then the Flange with your fingers
Pry the seal out.
Replace the crush sleeve.
replace the seal.

reassemble. with the pinion flange nut torqued up to FSM specs.

tips or tricks?

a lot of awesome rattle gun or leverage.

A new crush tube isn't necessary..
Look in just about any car workshop manual and they all have basically the same procedure.
Remove tailshaft.
Mark pinion nut, shaft and flange.
Remove nut.
Remove flange with a puller.
R&R seal.
Reassemble.

X2 with want33s i replaced my seal only and set nut back to original marks, + a touch more.
been like that for a while & no leaks or noise.

[fordem]

SierraDan wrote:

Buy new crush sleeve and seal.
Remove tailshaft
Remove the centre pinion nut
Then the Flange with your fingers
Pry the seal out.
Replace the crush sleeve.
replace the seal.

reassemble. with the pinion flange nut torqued up to FSM specs.

tips or tricks?

a lot of awesome rattle gun or leverage.

Just how do you plan on getting the crush sleeve out without removing the bearing?

[SierraDan]

I used my fingers. I put the new on on with my fingers also.

Although I just realised im pretty sure you can't access the sleeve from the flange side.
But the bearing doesn't need to be touched. And they're a pretty critical component which I've learnt it's cheap insurance for extended diff life, and no they don't NEED to be replaced but I prefer doing things once.

Of course this is a forum and this is just my experience and opinion.

[fordem]

SierraDan wrote:

I used my fingers. I put the new on on with my fingers also.

Although I just realised im pretty sure you can't access the sleeve from the flange side.
But the bearing doesn't need to be touched. And they're a pretty critical component which I've learnt it's cheap insurance for extended diff life, and no they don't NEED to be replaced but I prefer doing things once.

Of course this is a forum and this is just my experience and opinion.

Interesting...

The crush sleeve fits on the pinion shaft between the bearings - there is NO way to get to it without touching a bearing - as a matter of fact, I don't think you can get to it without removing the pinion, so whilst I have no idea what you removed with your fingers, I seriously doubt it was the crush sleeve.

[christover1]

Inner race of bearing comes out, leaving access to the crush sleeve.
Tho only done it on a Sierra, I am assuming Vits be the same

I could be remembering wrong, tho?

[SierraDan]

fordem wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

I used my fingers. I put the new on on with my fingers also.

Although I just realised im pretty sure you can't access the sleeve from the flange side.
But the bearing doesn't need to be touched. And they're a pretty critical component which I've learnt it's cheap insurance for extended diff life, and no they don't NEED to be replaced but I prefer doing things once.

Of course this is a forum and this is just my experience and opinion.

Interesting...

The crush sleeve fits on the pinion shaft between the bearings - there is NO way to get to it without touching a bearing - as a matter of fact, I don't think you can get to it without removing the pinion, so whilst I have no idea what you removed with your fingers, I seriously doubt it was the crush sleeve.

Yeah I said I realised you can't access it from te flange side. The pinion comes out.

I replaced the one on the left with the one on the right. I walked into the gearbox shop and said can I please have a Sierra crush sleeve he gave me that. My diff works. So I'm pretty sure it's the crush sleeve. But I'm happy to be told otherwise if you can show me what the crush sleeve is.

[Scrawny]

Yep, that's a crush sleeve/tube. I've done a few 100 series ones and I needed a puller to get the bearing out before getting to the crush tube

[fordem]

SierraDan wrote:

Yeah I said I realised you can't access it from te flange side. The pinion comes out.

I replaced the one on the left with the one on the right. I walked into the gearbox shop and said can I please have a Sierra crush sleeve he gave me that. My diff works. So I'm pretty sure it's the crush sleeve. But I'm happy to be told otherwise if you can show me what the crush sleeve is.

That IS the crush sleeve and there is NO way you got it out without removing a bearing - it can't be done - this is the second time I'm saying that.

You're the one says you took it out with your fingers and the bearings don't need to be touched.

SierraDan wrote:

I used my fingers. I put the new on on with my fingers also.

Although I just realised im pretty sure you can't access the sleeve from the flange side.
But the bearing doesn't need to be touched. And they're a pretty critical component which I've learnt it's cheap insurance for extended diff life, and no they don't NEED to be replaced but I prefer doing things once.

Of course this is a forum and this is just my experience and opinion.

[SierraDan]

I pulled the pinion out and slid the sleeve off with my fingers/hand. I've done it twice now.
I know it was a crush sleeve, I didn't need confirmation you did.

I don't know how you can say I didn't do it.
Why would I need to lie about it? Haha.

I say again. I did not touch a bearing.

[fordem]

Soooo - you pulled the pinion out without touching a bearing? Really??
You disassembled an entire third member without touching a single bearing??? Really????

[SierraDan]

Bearing caps were undone to remove the carrier. Then I removed the pinion after the flange was removed. I didn't remove any bearings from anything.

[want33s]

Sometimes (rarely in my experience), the front pinion bearing will slide off the shaft as it is removed, staying in the housing.
Thus you would be able to remove the crush tube without touching the bearings.

[royce]

FFS buzbox is talking about replacing the seal while the center is in the car

SierraDan is coming up with instructions based on him being able to remove the pinion, which means he has the center out of the car and the hemisphere removed.

Please A, read before posting unhelpful info and B, read before trying to start an argument when being asked about your unhelpful info

Also, whats the FSM spec for the nut? mine says its based on bearing start torque
The shims set the pinion height not the crush tube, we have had this argument for years already.

[ramjet]

royce wrote:

FFS buzbox is talking about replacing the seal while the center is in the car

SierraDan is coming up with instructions based on him being able to remove the pinion, which means he has the center out of the car and the hemisphere removed.

Please A, read before posting unhelpful info and B, read before trying to start an argument when being asked about your unhelpful info

Also, whats the FSM spec for the nut? mine says its based on bearing start torque
The shims set the pinion height not the crush tube, we have had this argument for years already.

I too am keen to know the FSM spec on the pinion seal nut for the front diff on wide track sierra. Bought a pinion seal replacement kit from lowrange and it comes with a new seal, main seal bolt, crush tube and shims. As it comes with a new bolt, I can't really match the previous torque settings by way of marking anything, so I am a bit stuck. They manual is very fuzzy on the topic.

[303zuke]

Read the Factory Service Manual on Differentials.

The Crush Tube ONLY sets the bearing pre-load. The shims sets the pinion height/depth. However, if the crush tube is over-tightened, it will not support the bearings, causing the pinion to float and causing the damage in SierraDan's pic. See Pages 16-8 and 16-9. The Crush Tube is set to a certain length by tightening the flange nut to put a pre-load on the inner and outer pinion bearings. The danger with re-using the old crush tube by turning the nut to the old crimp position is the risk of over-tightening the nut. You cannot back off the nut if you go too far, because the crush tube (as the name suggets) will crush too much and not spring back. By carefully turning the nut to the old position still won't give the correct pre-load, as it was originally set when the bearings were new and they will have worn/lapped since then and require further adjust to maintain proper pre-load torque. The crush tube MUST be replaced any time new bearings are installed, as they will be fractionally different sized to the old bearings.

The Crush Tube was only used on 1.3 Sierras and Vits, the 1.0 Sierras and LJs used a solid machined spacer with adjusting shims (in addition to the ones already used for Pinion setting),which made replacing seals much easier, but too a lot more effort in setting pre-load.

[ramjet]

Great! Soo..... How tight should the nut be?

[mrw82]

ramjet wrote:

Great! Soo..... How tight should the nut be?

RTFM

[Scrawny]

mrw82 wrote:

ramjet wrote:

Great! Soo..... How tight should the nut be?

RTFM

[303zuke]

ramjet wrote:

Great! Soo..... How tight should the nut be?

There is NO tension figure for the nut, you must turn the nut until the crush tube closes up to a certain length to give the correct preload on the two pinion bearings. This is indicated in the MANUAL ON PAGE 16-9 as a turning torque for the flange.

It's kind of a similar concept to Sierra front wheel bearings, except you can't back off the nut if you turn it too tight.

[ramjet]

303zuke wrote:

ramjet wrote:

Great! Soo..... How tight should the nut be?

There is NO tension figure for the nut, you must turn the nut until the crush tube closes up to a certain length to give the correct preload on the two pinion bearings. This is indicated in the MANUAL ON PAGE 16-9 as a turning torque for the flange.

It's kind of a similar concept to Sierra front wheel bearings, except you can't back off the nut if you turn it too tight.

Ok thanks for being patient with me, this is the first time I have changed the pinion seal, so I am not 100% down with the lingo.

As for "RTFM" responses. I have read it several times, the electronic haynes version is quite cryptic and has horrible gamma and sentence structure. Just needed someone to explain it like any student, geez..

[zukmeista]

Read The FACTORY Manual.

[atari4x4]

http://www.4x4.in.th/manual_sj413/chapter16.pdf
this one

[ramjet]

atari4x4 wrote:

http://www.4x4.in.th/manual_sj413/chapter16.pdf
this one

Awesome resource, thanks!