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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:04 pm
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Vehicle: 92 Sierra hardtop

Post Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:58 pm 
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Hey guys, Im about to do a rear disc conversion on a 92 Sierra, so I need a transfer handbrake, what have people done/ used other than the 1 litre hand brake, preferably on the cheap side haha,

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Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: western vic
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Post Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:36 pm 
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1.3 narrow tracks have a transfer mounted drum handbrake too..
they work very well

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Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 11:50 am
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Location: Beenleigh
Vehicle: Coil Sierra

Post Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 9:01 pm 
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Is it possible if you have a 1lt case to convert from rear diff handbrake to transfer handbrake?

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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:04 pm
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Vehicle: 92 Sierra hardtop

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 8:14 am 
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Ok, so if I have a wt tcase can I straight bolt on a nt drum hand brake, what do you do with the wt hand brake cable do you have to shorten it??

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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:57 am
Posts: 197
Location: Nanango Qld
Vehicle: Suzuki Sierra Lwb

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:10 am 
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If your skills are ok use one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Hydraulic-Brake-Assembly-Caliper-Cylinder-Dirt-Pit-Bike-ATV-Gokart-50-125-/251350587158?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a85a99716 and get a disk turned up most are around 4mm thick

Another option i know hilux conversions use subaru front calipers they have hand break lever built in

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Joined: Thu May 27, 2010 12:01 pm
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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 2:54 pm 
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A nt drum handbrake will bolt directly to a wt transfer case. The handbrake cables are different but if you buy a complete setup you might get one with it or they are available new. You'll either need to swap the driveshaft yoke to a nt one or redrill the drum and put in studs at wt bolt pattern.

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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:57 am
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Location: Nanango Qld
Vehicle: Suzuki Sierra Lwb

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:06 pm 
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this is an example of disk brake hand brake http://www.suzuki-4wd.nl/tech/samurai-tech/disc-handbrake/ :peaceout:

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Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: western vic
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:24 pm 
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if you bend a disc on the rocks, your stuck with a bound up driveline
the stock drum handles some abuse

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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:57 am
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Location: Nanango Qld
Vehicle: Suzuki Sierra Lwb

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:36 pm 
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pezz wrote:
if you bend a disc on the rocks, your stuck with a bound up driveline
the stock drum handles some abuse

ive seen a couple done and none bent on rocks also you could design a belly plate for it i know that all my drum ones have not worked when i needed them so this will be a UPGRADE ill be doing why upgrade other things and put up with a standard drum brake hand brake :roll:

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Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: western vic
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:27 pm 
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not having a shot at you..
but a well maintained stock transfer drum works great

a disc is neat if protected, but wont offer any more braking force, just less maintenance
one could argue that with a disc you are saving some weight, but you will add that back in with a belly plate

i like to run stock parts where possible for ease of replacement parts when touring about..
each to their own...
be sure to post up some pic's of what you come up with

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Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:53 pm
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Location: Northcliffe, W.A.
Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:56 pm 
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I don't see why you'd bother with a disc setup when the standard drum is 100x easier, far cheaper, much less susceptible to damage, wont be picked on in a pit inspection, has off the shelf parts available and is already very effective. Who's to say a homebrew disc setup with a Chinese motorbike caliper would be more effective anyway? I doubt it would be. You're not going to get any greater brake diameter, the pad surface area would be significantly less, I doubt you'd get appreciably greater force applied and a home made disc is going to be less than optimal.

I think the only advantage of the disc is lower rotating weight, you'd never notice the difference though.

Also, I wouldn't use a hydraulic setup as my handbrake. If I was forced to, I'd pick line locks over a transfer mounted hydraulic disc setup anyway. It'd be likely be cheaper, certainly easier, guaranteed to be effective and it wont give you the issues that open diffs and a transfer handbrake do.

The standard transfer drum brake works awesome. If yours doesn't then it probably needs adjusting or the pads are worn out. If you can pull more than 6 notches on the handbrake then it requires adjustment.

You can use an SJ40 drum by creating a hybrid 1.3l/1l uni joint and using the 1l tailshaft flange. 1.3l NT is a little easier, just swap the tailshaft flange as jono says.

I remember someone on here saying you can fit the LJ transfer brake to a Sierra transfer. Might be a good option seeing as an LJ transfer is worth about $5. You'd need to run hybrid unis like a 1l though (LJ is the same bolt pattern as 1l).

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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:57 am
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Location: Nanango Qld
Vehicle: Suzuki Sierra Lwb

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:34 pm 
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sideways wrote:
I don't see why you'd bother with a disc setup when the standard drum is 100x easier, far cheaper, much less susceptible to damage, wont be picked on in a pit inspection, has off the shelf parts available and is already very effective. Who's to say a homebrew disc setup with a Chinese motorbike caliper would be more effective anyway? I doubt it would be. You're not going to get any greater brake diameter, the pad surface area would be significantly less, I doubt you'd get appreciably greater force applied and a home made disc is going to be less than optimal.

I think the only advantage of the disc is lower rotating weight, you'd never notice the difference though.

Also, I wouldn't use a hydraulic setup as my handbrake. If I was forced to, I'd pick line locks over a transfer mounted hydraulic disc setup anyway. It'd be likely be cheaper, certainly easier, guaranteed to be effective and it wont give you the issues that open diffs and a transfer handbrake do.

The standard transfer drum brake works awesome. If yours doesn't then it probably needs adjusting or the pads are worn out. If you can pull more than 6 notches on the handbrake then it requires adjustment.

You can use an SJ40 drum by creating a hybrid 1.3l/1l uni joint and using the 1l tailshaft flange. 1.3l NT is a little easier, just swap the tailshaft flange as jono says.

I remember someone on here saying you can fit the LJ transfer brake to a Sierra transfer. Might be a good option seeing as an LJ transfer is worth about $5. You'd need to run hybrid unis like a 1l though (LJ is the same bolt pattern as 1l).


WOW all that to quote what someone else has already said in this topic :beer: keep your hat on im only offering another option

If you are right why do people change to vitara calipers on the front and disk on the rear of their zooks uuummmm to upgrade make things better and different to every joe blow

You keep your car stock that's fine i will always offer true tested methods and research to back them up im no newbie :thefinger:

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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:40 am
Posts: 2979
Location: Darwin, NT
Vehicle: WT sierra, GU CRD

Post Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:56 pm 
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The transfer drum handbrake in my LWB worked "sick mate... sick.... subwoofa."

The rear drum brake handbrake works good on my WT too. We aren't using these things to stop trailers.

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