[Saam]

Well i am on the lookout for a jimny tail shaft to mod to fit my sierra because i just can not get a decent tail shaft angle at the transfer and at the moment i have it propped up at the front to stop vibes which is shit for the jackshaft and front shaft.

anyways if i can not find a jimny shaft and hilux double cardinal ones are way to freakin heavy what would my other options be in the tailshaft department, do you think a small car cv joint + coilky tailshaft custom one would be viable ????

i'm not rebuilding my transfer case untill this is sorted, don't want to kill any of my new bearings

[joeblow]

a sierra front shaft will always vibrate, it was never desinged for high speed use (anything above 30k's an hour really) and suzuki gave priority to rear angles. a jimny unit may solve vibrations but as i have found out because of the angle the cv boot won't last too long. a hilux double cardan is a heap of weight to put on the front or rear bearings in a sierra t/case and will chop them out a lot sooner. how have you modded the front diff? have you rotated the pinion up or down?

[royce]

is it cause the angle is too great or the flanges on the transfer and diff arent parallel?

I cant see that you would have too much lift to cause problems?

but at any rate a CV would be good, it would be seeing about 4 times less torque than in its normal place by the wheel (from the diff gearing) and I can only guess the extra revs would be ok.

Yuris buggy uses 60 series CV's on the driveshafts

just remember that if you have CV one end and uni the other the uni needs to run perfectly straight or it will vibrate, unis are designed to run in pairs to cancel each other out.

[Saam]

ah okay so i need the uni straight gay,

in regards to the front shaft it doesn't vibrate much i am not really concerned with it. Just jack shaft i want back to standard position.

the pinion on my front diff was pretty much brought back to standard when i made my control arms to keep the Castor.

i would say the issue must be the flanges not parallel maybe i need to be looking into redesigning rear control arms or something.

front

rear at diff transfer

rear at diff

maybe i would have to run cv's at both ends if i did not want to change the angle of my rear diff...........

because if i lower the case any more i will get more jack shaft vibes the transfer case will get more eaten by rocks and the front shaft will hit on the cross member.

and the other option is re making my rear control arms to get the diff flange to sit parallel with the transfer flange...

it is strange if i am accellerating around a corner it vibrates more, i think the angle must get worse

[Saam]

those pics where taking with the transfer case lower than i want it aswell. so you can probly guess angles get worse

[Zook_Fan]

you can go from 4 high to 2 high on the fly so y not just change back and forth especially if you are going to be turning?

[royce]

cause its the rear thats wobbling

[Saam]

WHat!? it's a tail shaft vibe, i don't really mind about vibes in 4x4 i am talking on road at speed stuff like that

[royce]

I reckon you have another problem that doesnt look too bad

[Saam]

that's what i thought but two different transfer cases, uni's seem okay slip joint in good condition.

like i said the pics are from when i have it set up for little vibes, just feels rough, then if i lift the transfer back up to standard it vibrates so bad you can see the stick move

[kenn]

Heres a shot of the rear in my LJ steeper angles, same plain ,no vibes.


Maybe you have an axle wrap problem,generating bad uni angles.

[want33s]

If you run a UNI dead straight it will chew out in no time as the load will be on just a couple of needles ALL the time. Uni's need to run at an angle to spread the load over most if not all of the needles.
Take a look under any car (or truck) with a centre bearing ala 2 piece shaft, and you'll see the uni's all run at an angle.
Jas.

[just_cruizin]

How have you moded the transfer to effect the jack shaft

[want33s]

just_cruizin wrote:

How have you moded the transfer to effect the jack shaft

I believe Sam has raised just the front of the transfer to alleviate the rear shaft angle at the expense of the jack and front shaft.
Jas.

[Zook_Fan]

royce wrote:

cause its the rear thats wobbling

i think i should go to bed.... i dont think thinking is a good idea

[Saam]

kenn wrote:

Heres a shot of the rear in my LJ steeper angles, same plain ,no vibes.


Maybe you have an axle wrap problem,generating bad uni angles.

is it possible to get axle wrap on a standard coil sierra arm arrangement ? they are pretty much the same just made out of different stuff, it's not like it is under load when i have issues either.

i will put standard mounts back in and take a picture of the tail shaft angle, because this is the setup i want for the other shafts to be happy. and standard mounts are the highest you can have it without a body lift hey ?

[want33s]

You can go a little higher in the mounts without a body lift.
If you go to bunnings and get some square cyclone rod washers, they are exactly the same size as transfer mounts, and put one above and one below the rubber you will raise the transfer by about 8mm.
You may squeeze another in there if you have enough thread on the studs.

Jas.

[Saam]

cyclone rod washers hey what are the made out of ? also i though standard mounts where snap happy ?

[want33s]

Saam wrote:

cyclone rod washers hey what are the made out of ? also i though standard mounts where snap happy ?

They are steel... Available in yellow zinc chromate or plain gal.

The original mounts do tend to break rather easily but shimming them up a few MM shouldn't effect them.
I run Rock4X poly mounts in mine.
LIFETIME GUARANTEE. From Lowrangeoffroad.

[Saam]

i honestly doubt i would snap a standard mount anyway i am a bit of a lameass.

i have 4 spare so i don't think it is an issue anyway ahah maybe if i get a job i will get some of those puppies.

[Trojan]

Saam wrote:

and the other option is re making my rear control arms to get the diff flange to sit parallel with the transfer flange...

Why not make up a set up castor plates for the rear housing? Get the rear housing sitting parralel to the transfer and see what it does.

Easier then making new rear arms, and if it does fix the problem, then you can think about making new arms.

My rears been done this way and i have no vibration issues that are caused from the tailshaft.

[TZAR]

Trojan wrote:

Saam wrote:

and the other option is re making my rear control arms to get the diff flange to sit parallel with the transfer flange...

Why not make up a set up castor plates for the rear housing? Get the rear housing sitting parralel to the transfer and see what it does.

Cause its a coily.....

[Saam]

castor plates ?

[royce]

coily is 3 link rear isnt it? like the front?

[Trojan]

TZAR wrote:

Trojan wrote:

Saam wrote:

and the other option is re making my rear control arms to get the diff flange to sit parallel with the transfer flange...

Why not make up a set up castor plates for the rear housing? Get the rear housing sitting parralel to the transfer and see what it does.

Cause its a coily.....

And?

Saam wrote:

castor plates ?

Well technically, on the rear they aren't going to be castor plates, because there is no castor to correct, but due to being a radius arm set up like the front, they are the same thing.

Basically a plate that goes over the mounts on the axle housing. On the rear, you'll reuse the front bolt, but the rear hole will be lowered, which will in turn rotate the housing to bring the diff back horizontal and parralel ot the transfer case.

The only issue is they normall have 3 holes in them and the rear top bolt normally goes through the original hole at the back to hold it in, but due to space you would have to make one up higher to clear the end of the radius arm.

Alternatively, you could just weld more metal onto the mount like mine have been done (and strengthen it at the same time) and redrill the back hole lower. This is how mine has been done.



I highlighted where the original hole was at the back with a red circle.

My rear uni angle at the back is this, which is identical to that at the transfer case.



I have no vibration issues.

[TZAR]

So you are talking a bolt in job like this one.



To me the only thing I thought you were talking about was these type for leaf springs

[TZAR]

So basically Sam you rotated the transfer to eliminate the rear driveline vibration after lifting the vehicle,and now you have developed a vibration in the jackshaft as a result. Is this the best description?

[Saam]

lifted it

had a bad vibration

lowered and tilted the transfer to stop vibes found an okay compromise

did the geared transfer case conversion which reminded me that i was making such a horrible compromise and because the jack shaft is shorter jack shaft angle is more effected.

put it back together how i had it with the chain case drove it vibrated so i tilted it more and just kept trying different heights until it stopped vibes in 2wd.

and here is where i am

[Saam]

OKAY spoke to dad (head engineer in trogdor projects)

going to put standard height mounts in transfer case put chassis on jack stands at ride height and unbolt the control arms at the chassis mount to work out how much the arms need to be changed. Arms will be bent and lengthened.

BEFORE i go to this effort with around 4 - 5 inches of spring lift, standard wheelbase and tail shaft if my uni angles match at the diff and transfer will i not have any vibrations.....

SAM

[kenn]

'Bingo' just remember same plane.