[striker99]

Hi guys,

I am looking for a transmission cooler for my 2013 Jimny as i have recently purchased a trailer.... and its an auto jimny... Can anyone people refer me to a transmission cooler they have bought previously that will fit this car, and the location they installed the unit?

After having a look under the bonnet I haven't really seen much space to mount a unit :s

I had a look on ebay and found some kits that looked alright, assuming they would fit... what do you guys think of this particular kit?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DERALE-19-RO ... 208&_uhb=1

Thanks

Matt.

[Gwagensteve]

i can't help much with where to put it, but that looks OK. You might even want to go the next size up.

Remember to install a trans temp gauge - probably more important than the cooler in all honesty.

Steve.

[Dan85]

Like Steve said go one bigger and definitely get a temp Guage. I installed mine in front of the radiator but down the bottom in the space behind my bull bar I'll try get a pic this weekend once I'm home for you. I found how I drive has a huge impact on the temp when towing and a bit of sympathy goes a long way to keeping it cool whilst towing. With the converter unlocked for long periods temps go up quick and without a cooler they go up really REALLY quick. I try to keep it out of over drive unless Im coasting down a hill or something. It also tends to get hot in stop start traffic so I would recommend a switched fan as well if you intend lots of traffic or offroad crawling/soft sand but since I installed the cooler she stays at a decent temp. Once I'm up over 50kph she generally stays nice and cool even when towing and over 90 there are no issues at all due to the air flow I guess. I will be installing the fan on my cooler in a few weeks.

[atari4x4]

^^^ those guys x lots, i reckon the trans temp gauge is a good indication on how hard you're working the car in general.

[striker99]

Dan85 wrote:

Like Steve said go one bigger and definitely get a temp Guage. I installed mine in front of the radiator but down the bottom in the space behind my bull bar I'll try get a pic this weekend once I'm home for you. I found how I drive has a huge impact on the temp when towing and a bit of sympathy goes a long way to keeping it cool whilst towing. With the converter unlocked for long periods temps go up quick and without a cooler they go up really REALLY quick. I try to keep it out of over drive unless Im coasting down a hill or something. It also tends to get hot in stop start traffic so I would recommend a switched fan as well if you intend lots of traffic or offroad crawling/soft sand but since I installed the cooler she stays at a decent temp. Once I'm up over 50kph she generally stays nice and cool even when towing and over 90 there are no issues at all due to the air flow I guess. I will be installing the fan on my cooler in a few weeks.

As you said mechanical sympathy goes a long way...I always try and be gentle with the Jimny on the very long hills as I do tend to notice the increase in transmission temp... (typically by leaning your leg against the transmission tunnel).

I was cleaning under the Bonnet yesterday afternoon and had a good look but couldn't really see where the cooler would fit...but possibly this is because I have the newer bonnet scoop jimny and standard bumper (no bull bar)

edit.. photos...





Edit 2... I removed some of the front bumper and think i found some space... approx 18-19cm tall x 30cm+ wide direclty infront of the bottom half of the huge AC fan, but under the lip of the widest part of the bumper...This would seem to be where people are installing the coolers when behind a bull bar.. the issue is finding a way to mount it...

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[striker99]

Hey guys, just an update, I just got a trans cooler delivered, It has an inlet/outlet... can anyone clarify where the inlet should be coming from? the inlet or the outlet from the transmission?

[Gwagensteve]

Outlet of the trans to the inlet of the cooler.

[striker99]

hmm so Transmission outlet > cooler inlet > cooler outlet > radiator inlet >radiator outlet >transmission inlet?

And to work out which is inlet/outlet from the transmission... unclip both and see which one spews liquid when starting the car?

[Gwagensteve]

I don't advocate using the transmission heater in the bottom of the radiator. If my transmission can run cooler than the bottom tank of the radiator, I'd like to give it the opportunity.

I'm not really sure why it's critical which way the fluid flows in your cooler, unless you have one with a temp sensor and integrated fan?

[ChrisN]

Trans cooler is a great idea. I have a larger version of that one in my Patrol (4.2 diesel). As Steve says the temp gauge is a very good idea. I don't know if your gearbox supports it but in the Patrol gearbox a manual lockup switch is a great help in controlling gearbox temperature. It's the torque converter that produces all the heat. When you can lock it up the temp drops really quickly.

[striker99]

Yeah I plan on getting a temp gage, from what I have read, it's best to have the transmission cooler placed after the radiator in order to avoid the radiator removing the benefits of the additional cooling....

Also, from research If one was to totally bypass the radiator problems can be encountered not being able to get the transmission to operating temperatures in very cold climates.... not likely in SEQ but worth considering if live elsewhere or travel...

Transmission - radiator Inlet - radiator outlet - transmission cooler inlet - transmission cooler outlet - transmission.

[Gwagensteve]

There is nowhere in Australia, and very few places in the world where you can over cool an auto. It's just not a factor.

[want33s]

Gwagensteve wrote:

There is nowhere in Australia, and very few places in the world where you can over cool an auto. It's just not a factor.

Sorry Steve but I beg to differ.......

I had a VL Calais brought to me a few years ago because it wouldn't go into overdrive.

The car had recently been purchased from a car yard and they weren't helping.
It turned out the car yard had fitted a cooler because the line through the radiator tank had split. The auto has a temp switch inside that prevents overdrive until it warms up enough, which usually only takes a few km but with the big cooler it never warmed up.

I'm not saying all cars are like this nor am I saying don't fit a cooler but it is possible to over cool an auto.

What is Suzuki's recommended auto temp working range?



XC Falcon cobras had optional engine oil cooler that had a thermostat so maybe something similar is available for an auto trans???

[striker99]

want33s wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

There is nowhere in Australia, and very few places in the world where you can over cool an auto. It's just not a factor.

Sorry Steve but I beg to differ.......

I had a VL Calais brought to me a few years ago because it wouldn't go into overdrive.

The car had recently been purchased from a car yard and they weren't helping.
It turned out the car yard had fitted a cooler because the line through the radiator tank had split. The auto has a temp switch inside that prevents overdrive until it warms up enough, which usually only takes a few km but with the big cooler it never warmed up.

I'm not saying all cars are like this nor am I saying don't fit a cooler but it is possible to over cool an auto.

What is Suzuki's recommended auto temp working range?



XC Falcon cobras had optional engine oil cooler that had a thermostat so maybe something similar is available for an auto trans???

My jimny does not engage overdrive until it warms up which usually takes a few minutes so it wouldn't surprise me if this could become an issue in warmer climates

[Gwagensteve]

On a jimny it's related to coolant temperature, not trans temp. My vitara engine/gearbox combo is the same.

Whilst I respect what want33's is saying, it's unfortunately going to perpetuate the myth of overcooling as possible or somehow likely to be a problem if you delete the radiator mounted transmission heater.

It's not the case.

Steve.

[ChrisN]

Must admit I worry about this a little. On the GQ the auto temperature gauge will usually sit right at the bottom (50 degrees C) in gentle running around town, or on a steady run in top gear (when the torque converter is locked). I also prefer not to run the auto cooler circuit through the radiator, as a failure in the radiator could allow coolant to contaminate the ATF, which will quickly lead to gearbox failure. Sometimes in winter I'll cover half the cooler with a bit of cardboard taped to it. Mind you Canberra winters are pretty cold. I've had no performance issues from letting the auto run with the ATF keeping fairly cool. It usually takes about a 5km run before it's warm enough to let the auto box lock the TC in top.

[Gwagensteve]

I have found no evidence of anyone reporting damage to an auto due to overcooling, only that it "could" happen in Northern Canada or somewhere. If there is a temp switch that's causing an issue I'd bypass it. It's probably there as a hangover of not having a coolant temp sensor as part of the ecu. Both the gq auto and vl auto are carby/1st gen EFI cars and will have left over carby workarounds in them.

I'll reiterate though, afaik Suzuki autos switch OD/lockup based on engine, not auto temp.

[atari4x4]

yep steve's right the aw4 wont go into od until is see's something like 30* coolant temp from memory, i know it's pretty low.

[want33s]

Gwagensteve wrote:

On a jimny it's related to coolant temperature, not trans temp. My vitara engine/gearbox combo is the same.

Whilst I respect what want33's is saying, it's unfortunately going to perpetuate the myth of overcooling as possible...

No "myth" here mate. Overcooling IS possible, not necessarily a problem but still possible nonetheless.

[Gwagensteve]

Do what are the mechanical symptoms of overcooling from your experience? Other than the sensor or the VL jatco.

[droverdave]

I suspect its probably similar to having engine oil that is too cool. No real symptoms until you pull your engine apart and find its worn more than it should have due to the oil not being at its optimal temperature.

If i was going to get any oil cooler I would be getting one with a thermostat. Apparently in-line thermostats exist,

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/in ... imary&CDO=

[want33s]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Do what are the mechanical symptoms of overcooling from your experience? Other than the sensor or the VL jatco.

Excessive wear and/or emulsified oil is a problem if the oil doesn't get warm enough to expel condensation.

[atari4x4]

want33s wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

Do what are the mechanical symptoms of overcooling from your experience? Other than the sensor or the VL jatco.

Excessive wear and/or emulsified oil is a problem if the oil doesn't get warm enough to expel condensation.

^

This is my reason behind running the in radiator trans cooler & an external cooler, the temp comes up to the recommended operating temp pretty quick & it gets a bit warmer when hammering it, button off & you can see the temp being scrubbed off by the cooler. During winter on my 13km drive to work I struggle to even get the thing to come up to operating temp.

[Gwagensteve]

I understand that in theory, as per engine oil, but in my experience with a large auto, short geared in a light car with a large cooler, I can get my auto to 65 degrees very quickly, even at low ambient temperatures. My aw-4 runs up to 50 degrees cooler than a jimny auto under the same usage. I think 65 degrees would be plenty warm enough to dispel condensation.

If I stall my auto up, I can literally watch the gauge climb from stone cold in seconds.

I don't want my auto to run at the temperature of the bottom tank of my radiator. Most of the time it will run 15-20 degrees cooler than that. I'll stick to my opinion that the message to jimny owners should be to cool as much as you can- nobody has ever killed a jimny auto by overcooling it, but countless have been killed by heat. The message they might overcool and therefore run less cooling, or worse, actually be heating their transmission by continuing to use the in radiator "cooler" is false in my opinion.

Also bear in mind if your engine coolant temperature rises under high load, your in radiator "cooler" is putting heat back into the auto. That's a fail too.

Steve.

[JrZook]

want33s wrote:

No "myth" here mate. Overcooling IS possible, not necessarily a problem but still possible nonetheless.

What temp range is too cold?

[Gwagensteve]

IMHO well below freezing.

[Dan85]

I run a good sized cooler in my jimny auto and have bypassed the radiator and I have no issues it's gotten down to 1-2c here and it warms up pretty quick no problem. It certainly doesn't need anymore heat in it

[striker99]

Installed the cooler today, took a few pics for documentations sake...

I found, after taking these photos that it would be easier to mount the cooler in the centre of the vehicle in order to avoid kinking hoses etc etc and as a result moved the cooler into the centre afterwards.

For anyone wondering, the Radiator Outlet on a Suzuki Jimny (2013) when looking from the front of the car is on the right hand side, with the left hand side on the radiator being the inlet from the transmission.

I went Transmission outlet > Radiator inlet (left) > Radiator outlet (right) > Transmission cooler inlet > transmission cooler outlet > Transmission...

All is working well, next on my list is a temp gauge so can see what is going on... also a bit of buyers remorse, wishing I had bought a larger cooler, turns out their was a heap of room to mount a larger unit... This being said, I wouldn't want one that was any thicker than this one as may have clearance issues with the bumper (19mm thick)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230917220942 ... 1439.l2649

[Dan85]

So outlet from the trans is drivers side? Lucky, I guessed mine lol. The only thing I'd ask is should the cooler be mounted the other way round so you don't get an ever increasing air void in the top with no way to escape effectively reducing the cooler size?

[Gwagensteve]

Definitely would have gone bigger. It's also not having any air dragged through it by the engine fan in that location.