[Don Burtron]

Hi guys


I recently bought a SJ80 and need to know if u have to change panhard rods control arms etc straight away with the following mods i just bought.

If someone can tell me what i will have to get aswell that would be awesome as i searched for it and havent found much also do i have to change them straight away from the lift.

Here is what i got so far

Kingsprings 50mm lift
2 inch body lift
32x8 15 tyres and rims

Also whats the standard rim and tyre sizes as i cant find it so i can tell how much my speedo will be out

[alien]

50mm lift should be OK for the steering, you will have to take the wheel off and re-align it so it points straight ahead again though. (easy done).

Not sure on panhard etc as i don't have a coily... but i think 50mm is within acceptable limits. I would replace all the bushes though.

What tyre are you buying that's a 32x8-15 ?

Also - how will you address the gearing?

[jdk81]

2" body lift requires a small tweak to the steering shaft, and few other things.

Suspension lift would be better with a new (corrected length) or adjustable panhard to suit.

Stock tyre size is 205/75r15 (26") and 5.5r15 on the rims
So a 23% difference. Get a wt transfer case with 6.5s to correct the gearing.

Coily front diff, axles and cvs will not last long with 32s

[Don Burtron]

alien wrote:

50mm lift should be OK for the steering, you will have to take the wheel off and re-align it so it points straight ahead again though. (easy done).

Not sure on panhard etc as i don't have a coily... but i think 50mm is within acceptable limits. I would replace all the bushes though.

What tyre are you buying that's a 32x8-15 ?

Also - how will you address the gearing?

i got bushed all new bearings kingpins etc to go on aswell

i got 32x8-15 tyres i got

gearing i have got new transfer gears 6.5:1 to allow for the bigger wheels

thanks for the info mate

[Don Burtron]

jdk81 wrote:

2" body lift requires a small tweak to the steering shaft, and few other things.

Suspension lift would be better with a new (corrected length) or adjustable panhard to suit.

Stock tyre size is 205/75r15 (26") and 5.5r15 on the rims
So a 23% difference. Get a wt transfer case with 6.5s to correct the gearing.

Coily front diff, axles and cvs will not last long with 32s

Thanks for the info..

What diff do u think will work well in the front?

So many mixed opinions on the net its starting to do my head in on what way to go..
I prefer a locker but wondering if i can mod a leafy front doff and put a locker on it

[jdk81]

There is a build thread here (rusho iirc), where fatzook (? Iirc) swapped in a wt.
Looked like a lot of work.
And it doesn't address any of the coily issues.

If i was to consider owning a coily, id have three options.
kerp it stock and daily it
Sell it and buy a leafy sierra
Redo the whole front suspension and use wt diff or possibly lux, and still need wt xfer and few other things.

[coily96]

If got a similar set up, i would suggest a few things.

Rubber (not poly) caster correction bushes for the front arms, from 4wd products on ebay.
Some hammering of front guards
Bump stop spacing 50mm
6.5:1s a must
stronger transfer arms
brake line extension, both fronts and centre rear
strengthen the front upper shock mounts with a thick washer welded on top.

My 31's scrub all round with a 4inch lift.

[greenzook89]

There have been a couple of Jimny diff swaps done into SJ80s, Much easier than a WT swap

[monley]

greenzook89 wrote:

There have been a couple of Jimny diff swaps done into SJ80s, Much easier than a WT swap

How is it a easier swap? Do all radius arm mounts, panhard rod, shocks mounts etc... Line up with the width of a coily chassis So everything remains in line?( thats assuming the stuipd coil over setup is been removed and swapped for a conventional seprate spring/shock arrangement?) or do all those mounts have to be moved/re-fabricated to make a jimny diff work anyway? Only advantage of running a jimny diff over a WT diff is that the tie in rod runs behind the diff so there's less packing issues with drag link/panhard, but if a leafy front end can be coiled (which has been done plently of times) how much harder would it be start again with the front end of a coily and a WT diff.

I looked into doing a diff swap in a coily a while ago and did consider a jimny diff but felt it was a bit of a side ways step considering the main reason of the swap was for strength and the ability to fit a locker but jimny diffs are still a rather poor optoin when you look at the availability of upgraded cvs/axels available of the shelf not to mentoin only 2 diff ratio optoins to choose from and that would require the rear ratio be changed to either 4.1/4.3 to match the jimny ratios available

If it was my build id start from scratch with a built WT diff and build some suspension that actually works, call it a day and not worry about the front end again..jmo

[got_bar_work]

With 31 and a king spring lift I never once needed more lift because of the swb. Scrap the body lift and grab a grinder.

[want33s]

jdk81 wrote:

2" body lift requires a small tweak to the steering shaft, and few other things.

Suspension lift would be better with a new (corrected length) or adjustable panhard to suit.

Stock tyre size is 205/75r15 (26") and 5.5r15 on the rims
So a 23% difference. Get a wt transfer case with 6.5s to correct the gearing.

Coily front diff, axles and cvs will not last long with 32s

Stock tyre size is 205/70-15

[jdk81]

^^ thanks for correcting my silly mistake.

[greenzook89]

monley wrote:

greenzook89 wrote:

There have been a couple of Jimny diff swaps done into SJ80s, Much easier than a WT swap

How is it a easier swap? Do all radius arm mounts, panhard rod, shocks mounts etc... Line up with the width of a coily chassis So everything remains in line?( thats assuming the stuipd coil over setup is been removed and swapped for a conventional seprate spring/shock arrangement?) or do all those mounts have to be moved/re-fabricated to make a jimny diff work anyway? Only advantage of running a jimny diff over a WT diff is that the tie in rod runs behind the diff so there's less packing issues with drag link/panhard, but if a leafy front end can be coiled (which has been done plently of times) how much harder would it be start again with the front end of a coily and a WT diff.

I looked into doing a diff swap in a coily a while ago and did consider a jimny diff but felt it was a bit of a side ways step considering the main reason of the swap was for strength and the ability to fit a locker but jimny diffs are still a rather poor optoin when you look at the availability of upgraded cvs/axels available of the shelf not to mentoin only 2 diff ratio optoins to choose from and that would require the rear ratio be changed to either 4.1/4.3 to match the jimny ratios available

If it was my build id start from scratch with a built WT diff and build some suspension that actually works, call it a day and not worry about the front end again..jmo

I did some measurements and yes, the jimny diff will line up with the radius arms. Obviously convert the front to separate shock and coil and at least there is some form of aftermarket support for the Jimny diff. Im not saying its the complete solution but its one option.