Did you bench bleed the new M/C before installing?

First - a quick & easy booster test is to switch the vehicle off and then pump the brake pedal to purge any stored vacuum, with each pump the pedal should travel less until the height at which it stops remains consistent - hold the pedal down with moderate pressure and start the engine - if the pedal drops an inch or two, the booster is fine.

Second - the traditional tell tale for air in the line is not so much pedal travel as pedal 'feel' - air in the system will cause longer than normal travel, but, when the pedal does stop, it will be "spongy" and a good to define that is like if you stepped on a dish washing sponge, you feel the resistance when your foots hits the sponge and then when the sponge compresses until your foot reaches the floor.

There are other causes for long pedal travel, and also for a "spongy" pedal - but if I need to start explaining those you're at the point where you need to decide what your life is worth, because that's what you're putting at risk by continuing to fiddle with a system you may not be familiar with.

Should we be having to explain the correct way to bleed the brakes, the correct sequence to bleed the brakes, etc.?

A few questions ...

- 1 - is the vehicle lifted?
- 2 - when does the problem show up?
- 3 - is it worse after turning a corner?

Lifted Vitaras can have a problem with the front springs bowing outwards and coming into contact with the calipers in turns, forcing the calipers outward and this causes them to push fluid back into the master cylinder, requiring additional pedal travel and possibly requiring multiple pedal strokes before the brakes will work, depending on how tight the turn was.