Hi all, I rebuilt my carb due to the car not idling when cold, and now it's not only still doing that, it's now surging after the rebuild. Originally the car would stall cold and I'd have to hold my foot on the pedal until warm then it'd idle fine. Now it's surging badly I'm afraid to run it for too long. I was wondering if anyone new the specs for the float level? I didn't adjust it during the rebuild and assume that's what's causing the surging. With the cold start I was told it's the fuel passages in the base of the carb, I replaced every jet but wasn't aware there were more passages in the base I need to remove it and use carby some cleaner.

I found a guide on youtube, the carb looks slightly different but was wondering if I could use it as a guide? This is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mJHc3YjwPQ

I also have a video of it running with the cold start issue https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mJHc3YjwPQ it's been sitting in the garage ever since!

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers

Hi Mark, thanks appreciate the reply currently I've got the carb out and apart on the desk now!

I replaced the fuel filter when I was doing it all last year, I also removed the tank and cleaned it, sprayed carby cleaner and compressed air through the fuel lines etc. The fuel pump is ok, the choke I adjusted and was apparently fine (the butterfly was closed at cold, and opened correctly when warm). When I first bought the car I swapped the head gasket, I can't remember if the cold start problem existed before I did the head gasket. As I only drove the car once before (when I bought it and the previous buyer had warmed it up beforehand), only other possibility I could think of is the valve timing but I double checked the gaps and I'm sure I did it all correctly.

I just took apart the base of the carb (I didn't do that when rebuilding it last time) and found a badly blocked jet which might have something to do with it. Not sure what it does but hopefully it solves the problem!

Regarding the float level my manual is a Haynes it doesn't list the float specs unfortunately. Some searching tells me the float should be set to 7mm or 7.5mm. I'm willing to take a guess, but where are you supposed to measure the gap? Is it 7mm between the top of the float and underneath the top piece/lid of the carb??

The other thing is I noticed if I push the float valve upwards it sticks... it's a new valve and seat not sure if this is normal or will it be a problem? When in the car fuel would come through the inlet line and push the valve back down back down I'd imagine and it's normal.

The float sticking:


The fuel passage that was blocked solid and is now clear!

Its been a few days since your reply, how'd you go?

Sounds dumb but is the choke operational?



Going by your last pic, looks like one of the breather/vac lines IIRC, one goes to the charcoal can, one goes to the dizzy, one goes to the front of the intake?

Anything being blocked wouldn't help. If I had one of those unplugged it would cause the car to hesitate slightly.



Thats what I did but 8mm height. 8mm drill used as thickness gauge.





My float didn't stick. Does it stick hard?