[Jester]

G'day guys, I've been bumming round here looking for a coupla weeks.

I'm in the process of purchasing a 1990 Vitara soft-top, only its not a going concern (officially, though it does run just the oil is milky).

First Up I reckon it might be just the head gasket and a light bit of headwork needed to get it running (though If it needs a whole engine I'm allowing for that). The oil became milky after the previous owners wife drove too long after a hose split, It got towed home and he changed all the hoses, thermostat, oil &filter. took it round the block and the oil was milky so they parked it. Still runs smoothly.
Does that diagnosis sound about right?

Secondly the trans (its got a 3spd auto in it at the mo) is a bit tired and so I'm gonna convert it to 5spd manual, so I know I'm gonna need to change out the pedal box, get the box and clutch and flywheel.
What year vitara boxes (or others) will bolt straight up (pros and cons for slightly different ones)?
And i believe I will actually have lower ratio diffs in it, is that correct, being a factory auto?

Then there is just a few other things to tidy up on it but should be a fun little bus, I'll be doing most of the work myself as I'm an apprentice mechanic and learning auto elec too, so i have the skills (well at least to develop) and the budget is pretty tight on this project.

Any other cheap options to go for with it?
It already has I think 30's on black sunraysias (someone that has more idea might be able to tell from the photo but they arent the tyres on it now but still the same size just a touch less aggressive)
think about a 2in suspension lift
a 2in body lift supplied but not fitted (they had it coming when she killed it)
custom front bar
2x narva blue spotties to fit also
and recaro style seats to fit also
(got the whole lot for a good price considering the problems too)

and where would be a decent cheaper place to get the 'garden edging' type flares so i can cover the tyres a bit since its also gonna be my daily in the CBD of Adelaide, but gonna be a car to have fun in too!

pic of it:

[morpheus]

i think i have seen this 1 drivin around.. what ya pay 4 it? i bought my vit for $2500 with a blown motor (didnt know it was blown when i bought it) and its still sitting in my driveway, i dont have the skills to fix it myself, or the money 2 take it to a mechanic, so it just sits their

BTW i like that front bar. i need 1 like that as my front bar is a bit bendy.. lol

OH and welcome to the sight. i have been here for a little while now and i think everyone here is pretty friendly, and even help me out when i ask a stupid question. but in saying that, my questions arn't quite as bad as some

[Jester]

Ive payed $1200 for it and another $200 for the seats, and that includes all the parts, plus an extra rear seat (cos they the previous owners got another style rear seat), the original front bar (bit worse for wear), a pair of chopped raised springs (wtf!?!)

I'm not entirely new to suzukis as my first car was a 3pot swift, I should be able to keep the completely stupid questions to a minimum as im already an apprenice mechanic, ill know more once i pick it up next weekend.

[morpheus]

you win, i thought my car was a bargain, but i also thought it was running fine. i'd like 2 copy that front bar 1 day perhaps, if i wind up keeping my vit and fixing it.

its running fine, but as is yours, the water and oil have mixed.. also one of my hubs wont lock, and a front wheel bearing has gone, oh and the clutch. i got ripped badly.... what an idiot!!

[felix]

Hey mate- another apprenti here with a vitara haha.

I'm guessing its a carby? If it is I'd suggest getting the carby done before you do everything back up, or even better slap an injected motor in it because honestly the carby'd ones are pretty average. I'd hazard a guess that the head is cracked, they love to crack heads even at the best of times.

The diffs would be taller than the manual ones I think... Pretty sure the manuals had 5.12 ratios.. or 5.11 whatever.

Most of the vitara boxes up until the GVs will fit, pretty strong units too. Mines on about 400,000 and still going ok.

With a 2" BL you should be able to fit 31s no dramas.

[Zook_Fan]

the back pede is on the wrong way round.. other than that awesome vit

[acc1]

Seems pretty cheap. Not sure what there worth as I have a sierra, but for a rolling car with decent wheels front bar and no major dints in body panels sounds like a good price!

Nice buy

[atari4x4]

Hey Dude, welcome to Auszookers.... Another South Aussie!!

The Garden Edging flares can be had from Bunnings or you can get proper rubber ones from Clark Rubber or Fitch the Rubber man in Hindmarsh.

Nice Vitara, looks like a bargain even if it has custard for oil...

[guerd87]

Nice Vitara! Im looking to buy myself a little Vitara soon. Going to be just a cheap bash around rig. 2" BL, 2" suspension lift, CIG rear locker and some trasnfer gears running 31" pedes. Will be starting as soon as i find a donor Vitara

morpheus, want to sell me yours? I can rebuild it easily enough

Jester, Do you know what hose it was that split? Im guessing its prob a water hose. If she drove too long without the hose on and cooked the engine then the head is prob warped and in need of a reco. The heads are all alloy and dont take much heat to warp them.

I just done the head up on my Ford Laser run around. $300 for complete reco including straightening, shaved, new guides were including in the full VRS kit. Also included in the $300 price. Remember the new head bolts

While your at it you might aswell (if you have the time and funding) pull the rest of the engine apart and re-ring and re-bearing it. Double check over the whole enginge and replace anythign that is getting worn out. Better to do it now then need to do it in 6 months time

[morpheus]

yeah im interested in selling mine, but i want 2 much for it, as i cant afford to just throw money away, i paid $2500.. i either need my money back (to buy a sierra), or fix it & use it..

[Jester]

Ok so I picked up my vit today and the head is now off (gasket well and truely blown, ill go over the head properly at the workshop and see where i go from there, but i noticed the top of the pistons
mine is an 8v 1990 model and the tops of the pistons look like they allow clearances for a 16v or is that just the normal piston look for the vits?

[Scrawny]

Looks like you've got the 16v bottom end, or at least the pistons.

Get the head checked by an engine rebuilder as they are prone to cracking. Get it machined too before you stick it back on. Have a really good look over the top of the block, make sure there's no major pitting or cracks. Nothing worse than getting it all back together only to find it still mixes oil and water.

Post up pics if you're unsure of anything, there's plenty of people on here with a lot of knowledge of these cars.

Oh, and welcome!!

[Jester]

ScrawnC wrote:

Looks like you've got the 16v bottom end, or at least the pistons.

Get the head checked by an engine rebuilder as they are prone to cracking. Get it machined too before you stick it back on. Have a really good look over the top of the block, make sure there's no major pitting or cracks. Nothing worse than getting it all back together only to find it still mixes oil and water.

Post up pics if you're unsure of anything, there's plenty of people on here with a lot of knowledge of these cars.

Oh, and welcome!!

yeah there was no way i was just gonna chuck it back on with a new gasket, I'm an apprentice mechanic so i was gonna get the bloke that does all our headwork to ensure all is good with the head, I know it doesnt have the original engine in it, but i suppose if its got a G16B bottom end a 16v efi conversion would be much easier and cheaper

[Jester]

nope ive checked the engine number is definately a G16A but does have pistons that allow for a 16V head, also im wondering what level of scratching with the bores is acceptable and considered reasonable in wear and tear or whether I'd be best off sourcing another engine for it?

[Damo]

ScrawnC wrote:

Looks like you've got the 16v bottom end, or at least the pistons.

Get the head checked by an engine rebuilder as they are prone to cracking. Get it machined too before you stick it back on. Have a really good look over the top of the block, make sure there's no major pitting or cracks. Nothing worse than getting it all back together only to find it still mixes oil and water.

Post up pics if you're unsure of anything, there's plenty of people on here with a lot of knowledge of these cars.

Oh, and welcome!!

Scrawn is spot on. Make sure you have a good look at the top of the block especially between the bores. If it's overheated enough for the head to warp then there's a good chance the block will need machining too.

Check that the pistons don't rock in the bores too. It might be worthwhile measuring them to see how out of round they are. That should give you an indication of what direction to take.