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| camber bolts https://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51738 |
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| Author: | duane [ Sat Jan 16, 2016 12:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | camber bolts |
guys i got a 91 vitara and need to put in camber bolts that are adjustable .. have got the bolts BUT which way do i need to put the tab on the washer facing in OR out to get my required camber ... at the moment it is waering out the inside of the tyres SO i will need to make the top of the tyre lean out THANKS |
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| Author: | Gwagensteve [ Sat Jan 16, 2016 12:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
Get them installed by an alignment shop so they can set the camber to spec. |
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| Author: | Mullett86 [ Sat Jan 16, 2016 1:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
Wearing out the inside of the tires? Needs more lift. |
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| Author: | fordem [ Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
Maybe you should tell us the modification/history of the vehicle - camber is not the only reason to wear the inner edges of the tires. I don't think lowered Vitaras (the most common cause for negative camber) are that common. |
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| Author: | missmyljdaze [ Sun Jan 17, 2016 11:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
duane wrote: i will need to make the top of the tyre lean out THANKS too much negative camber generally means the bottom of the tyre needs to be pulled inwards / vehicle needs lifting. pins can be fitted by yourself - but realistically, it is much better to get it done by whoever is doing the alignment, they do this sort of stuff all day every day. there might be more than just pins needed, could be - - worn suspension bushes, - accident damage, - strut towers walking around, - weakened suspension mountings from being hammered over corrugations, - dodgy suspension mods, - collapsed or lowered springs, - too much toe-in [is the tread feathered? and a few other things. unless you know exactly what the cause is - and have the skills to fix it - let the pro's sort it out. the fellas here might be able to give better advice if you bung a couple of photos up showing tread wear of each tyre, and a front and side view of your car parked on level ground.[load it up to simulate drivers weight] also - some vehicles are known for wearing tyres if they get lots of low speed full lock turns [car parks] - due to shitty factory geometry scrubbing the tyres. stephen |
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| Author: | duane [ Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
thanks guys TOOk it to a wheel guy and was told even befor they will put it on aligner it needed pins fitted,,,big call i think as it could be a few things that are wrong ,, have had the camber bolts for ages as got them when i was going to do a 50mm lift .. will just let the guys do the job and they can fit them BUT was told they will be 60 bucks to fit...lots of cash for changing 2 bolts 
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| Author: | missmyljdaze [ Sun Jan 17, 2016 3:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
duane wrote: was told they will be 60 bucks to fit...lots of cash for changing 2 bolts "changing 2 bolts" = cutting slots in the crossmember, bolting it all together, adjusting to suit and then welding the guide brackets in place. I am a perpetually broke "bodge-it-myself"  kinda bloke, and for $60 I wouldnt hesitate getting a pro to do the job.No grovelling on the ground getting grubby, most likely losing bits of scalp and leaking claret on the floor. Sit back, drink thier coffee - read thier paper - watch thier telly - perve on the counter shiela's assets, even con them out of scrap lead, all while taking it easy in the aircon waiting room while they do the whole job. Any hassles later on - it goes back to them to sort out too. stephen |
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| Author: | fordem [ Sun Jan 17, 2016 10:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
missmyljdaze wrote: duane wrote: was told they will be 60 bucks to fit...lots of cash for changing 2 bolts "changing 2 bolts" = cutting slots in the crossmember, bolting it all together, adjusting to suit and then welding the guide brackets in place. My guess is you've never fitted camber bolts - there's no cutting, slotting or welding involved. Remove the top "strut to knuckle" bolt, replace with camber bolt, ensuring washers are fitted correctly, repeat for the other side, and then adjust alignment. @Duane - If that $60 includes the alignment, it'll be money well spent - in addition to the benefits outlined by missmyljdaze, you probably don't have the tools equipment needed to properly adjust the camber. BUT - if the vehicle has not had the suspension modified, then camber bolts should not be needed, there's a problem that needs to be found & fixed, and not masked by adding camber bolts - sagging springs, worn ball joints, worn bushings, bent components, etc., etc., etc.. |
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| Author: | missmyljdaze [ Sun Jan 17, 2016 11:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
fordem wrote: My guess is you've never fitted camber bolts - there's no cutting, slotting or welding involved. Must admit - never fiddled with Zook suspension, apart from replacing broken LJ springs amd shocks. ------------------------------------------------------- I fitted camber pins to my 1972 V6 Capri - it needed more neg. camber - and there was no adjustment designed into these cars. The adjustment point had to be where the lower control arm bolted to the crossmember. This involved slotting the crossmember and welding the locating brackets in place. -------------------------------------------------------- My Datsun 1600's excessive neg camber was fixed at the top of the strut towers - slotted the 3 bolt holes, pushed the top of the struts outwards until camber was OK, cobbled up a reinforcing plate that locked the bolts in place - and braced the towers to each other and back to the firewall. -------------------------------------------------------- The old truck on the farm had a solid front axle, camber and toe-in sorted with CIG spanner, hydraulic jack, chain and an impact operated fine adjustment tool [BFH] stephen |
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| Author: | Reubs [ Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
There are some good instructions (and a link to the white line camber bolt instruction sheet) here: http://nbs4x4club.com/forum/index.php?topic=16334.0 With my lifted Vit I have the camber bolts set to full -ve and toe set to suit. Camber is a little on the -ve side but still within spec. Reason is I can pull the front end apart and put it back together and not have to get a wheel alignment afterwards. I have had a few less than perfect experiences with wheel alignments so the fewer required the better. I have had slightly -ve camber on a few zuks for several years. Haven't had a major problem with tyre wear that rotation can't fix. IMO fit the bolts yourself and get a wheel alignment to set the toe. |
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| Author: | got_bar_work [ Thu Jan 21, 2016 8:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: camber bolts |
Use a level to get camber . Come to a stop on flat ground with out using breaks as it changes when u brake. Do it a few times to check . I would say u have bent towers |
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