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Damo

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:32 pm |
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One of the drive gears my lathe's quick change gearbox is worn and needs a new bush pressed into it. Where can I get some bronze to make the bush?
The shaft is a bit sad too but with a bit of a clean up it might be OK I think. Worst comes to worst I can machine the shaft down and make the bush to suit.
_________________ SJ50.4.LYF
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royce

omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:52 pm |
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bearing shops, Faegestera metals (dunno how to spell it  )
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appsie
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 2225
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:16 pm |
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id be going with the last option and skim a bit off the shaft,just so you know its right.
Gotta love machining bronze,nice and easy
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Damo

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:31 pm |
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appsie wrote: id be going with the last option and skim a bit off the shaft,just so you know its right. Yep i'm with you on that appsie wrote: Gotta love machining bronze,nice and easy
That's good to know! I'm a very amateur "machinist", do you have any tips for me?
_________________ SJ50.4.LYF
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kreecha
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 115 Location: Darwin
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:02 pm |
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Damo wrote: appsie wrote: Gotta love machining bronze,nice and easy That's good to know! I'm a very amateur "machinist", do you have any tips for me?
fast shallow cuts.
get some material to practice on,
too shallow and the work may vibrate and leave 'corrugations' in the work.
too deep with a soft non-ferrous metal and you will create a bundle of heat (I am guessing a small-lathe without coolant??).
And clamp the work in (I am guessing a 3-jaw chuck??) copper jaws so that jaws do not affect the finish of the material even if you part it off.
It is a finite science.
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Fluffy
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 892 Location: Picton, NSW
Vehicle: 105 landcruiser
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:18 pm |
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Damo wrote: That's good to know! I'm a very amateur "machinist", do you have any tips for me?
be carefull when u drill bronze...go slow and reduce the rake on the back of your drill .other wise it will grab and pull it out of the chuck..
steve
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ball

I live here!
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 4673 Location: Katherine
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 Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:54 pm |
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Any decent bearing shop should have bronze.
It is possible to buy pre-made bushes if the bore and shaft are standard sizes. They are available in short lengths that you just cut to size.
Pine Rivers Bearings on South Pine road used to stock some sizes of these bushes but would order anything in you needed.
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Damo

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:31 am |
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Does anyone have a chart that lists surface feet per min. for different materials? I am using cheap, shitty, chinese carbide tooling.
_________________ SJ50.4.LYF
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Bruce

az supporter
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4003 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:55 am |
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Damo wrote: Does anyone have a chart that lists surface feet per min. for different materials? I am using cheap, shitty, chinese carbide tooling.
I do Damo but it's at work. Remind me on Mon and I'll scan it and post up mate.
_________________ [quote="royce"] I wouldnt mind insulating my rear
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Damo

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:11 pm |
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Bruce wrote: Damo wrote: Does anyone have a chart that lists surface feet per min. for different materials? I am using cheap, shitty, chinese carbide tooling. I do Damo but it's at work. Remind me on Mon and I'll scan it and post up mate.
Thanks Bruce!
_________________ SJ50.4.LYF
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ball

I live here!
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 4673 Location: Katherine
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:30 pm |
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Just make it up as you go along
You soon get a feel for what is right.
I did all the correct speeds and feeds at trade school but in real life it doesn't usually work out that way.
Machine rigidity and setup count towards achieving the correct surface finish not just cutting speed and feed alone.
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Damo

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:15 pm |
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ball wrote: Just make it up as you go along You soon get a feel for what is right. I did all the correct speeds and feeds at trade school but in real life it doesn't usually work out that way. Machine rigidity and setup count towards achieving the correct surface finish not just cutting speed and feed alone.
Thanks Ball, from what i've been reading it tells me the same thing. Being a rank amatuer I just wanted something as a starting point that's all.
_________________ SJ50.4.LYF
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 3:47 pm |
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I was taught "more speed, more feed" by an engineer.
Not 100% sure if he should of taught me that tho.
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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ball

I live here!
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 4673 Location: Katherine
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 3:48 pm |
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Try this link
http://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/ ... Speeds.php
They look about right I think but it has been a long time since I bothered to calculate RPM for the material.
Once you get a feel for your machine you will soon know if the speed is right.
Most small lathes don't have enough RPM to turn small aluminium jobs at the correct speed, so you just run them flat out
You just have to be careful when facing something of all the way into the centre. The surface speed decreases and becomes far too slow. If you are not aware of this then the carbide usually breaks. If you can drill the job for a center then you will have less chance of breaking inserts.
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ball

I live here!
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 4673 Location: Katherine
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 3:51 pm |
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steknig wrote: I was taught "more speed, more feed" by an engineer.
Not 100% sure if he should of taught me that tho.
Not always, sometimes you need to increase the feed and reduce the speed.
It all depends on the material, the machine and how it's held in the machine.
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