[v.w.dave]

Ok so I am a bit of a newbee to the forums but been a mechanic for 10 yrs and blahh blahh blahh (In short i know how to make it look like I know what I am doing haha) I have a 92 Sierra running 33-12.50/15 baja claw mickys, 2" spring, 2" shackles, spring overs, Rockhopper transfer gears and a few other mods like custom flare guards, winch, diamond plate trims spotties.... I am currently running the stock 1.3 but will be putting the 1.6efi in, in the next few months. (I will get a pic up in the next few days.)

The age old question I know has been discussed a few times but I want to know the good the bad and the ugly of doing a Hilux front and rear Diff swap.
Every forum I come across has at least one post on this topic. But they always get wayyyy off topic. I have a few simple questions (hahahahah )
*1 What year hilux has the best axils to use?
*2 If i have complete axils with housing,diff center, axils, brakes and hubs what else do I need before I drop my old ones?
*3 Can some one with this convertion please post some good pictures? or even better if you live in the sydney area can I come have a look at your setup?
*4 Any thing else I need to know please let me know.

I am wanting to do this in the next 2 weeks as I have broken my rear diff and would rather put the money into doing this convertion then fixing the old one.
Please feel free to PM or post back on here

THANKS
Dave

[want33s]

Why go Hilux axles and drastically increase the unsprung weight of the car when you can upgrade standard WT Zook axles with CrMo fronts and Calmini rears which will easily handle lockers and 33's.
Shaved Zook diff on 33's will give better clearance than hilux diff on 36's

If you must go Toyota axles don't use Hilux.... use Bundera as the pumpkin offsets better suit a Zook.

[dank]

yep another vote here for staying zook diffs.

plenty of upgradable components for front and rear diffs....if you have wide track diffs.

if you have narrow track then Hilux might be a cheaper option if you want strength.

[31zook]

it's your choice, it will be much cheaper and faster to fix your rear diff then to swap em over...my2c

[brendan]

Can I ask why you need so much lift? Spoa only need standard springs. Where do you wheel at? Your not too far from me

[v.w.dave]

I added the rockhoppers and the step bars over the weekend just past other then that I got the zook as it is. I honestly do not have my heart set on how high it is. I have only taken it out onec off heathcote rd. I only got the zook 2 weeks ago. to be honest with you the tyres still scrubbed and i wasn't even pushing it to hard.
But I have to say I love the look of it as it is but i want the tyres a little wider.
Where can i pick up a set of the WT's???
The reason I was looking at putting the Hilux diffs under was simply because i can get front and rear complete including brakes off a 95 4x4 hilux for $700. I am open to all options my problem is every one knows what is best but I have yet to see any true telling pictures.
I admit I am some what new to the Zook side of life. In the past I had a very old landcruise and new hilux.
I got onto this site hoping to find some people in my area to hit the bush with as I am new to this area as well. And to add to that I dont know anyone that has a 4x4 that would get to where mine would.

[v.w.dave]

here are some pics from last weekend before i put the step bars on and the rockhoppers in.

[zookernator]

Heres heaps of info the conversion mate, i did it a year or so ago.. and im still loving the results!! hehe
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ight=hilux

[v.w.dave]

Hey THANK YOU that is exactly what I was looking for.
I am still up inthe air what I want to do. Yours looks like it would be a blast to drive... I think for right now I am going to just fix my factory diff and save a little more money so that I can build it all at once with air lockers and all. Thank you again that is exactly the link I was asking for. Doing all the Fabrication work your self how much money did you spend on all the parts?

[just_cruizin]

It's important to find out where your tyres are rubbing and work from there, they are 12.5 so that will happen, learn to love it. I have 32 Swampers and 33 Silverstones and both rub, no better sound then big lugs pulling over steel.

[v.w.dave]

Both front wheels are scrubbing therear of the wheel arch and the rear wheels are hitting where the pnich weld is (They have already felt the love a big hammer )
That brings up a nother question.... Besides extending the drive shaft going tothe front diff, How hard is it to move the front axil forward?

[2stroker]

v.w.dave wrote:

Both front wheels are scrubbing therear of the wheel arch and the rear wheels are hitting where the pnich weld is (They have already felt the love a big hammer )
That brings up a nother question.... Besides extending the drive shaft going tothe front diff, How hard is it to move the front axil forward?

It is pretty easy, fit a set of rear springs to the front, this will move the diff forward, you will have to move the front spring mount forward on the chassis due to the spring being longer, there is a lot of info on this conversion to be found on the site under RUF (rears up front).

IMO - the tyres that you have on now are already to big for a Suzuki, I wouldn't go bigger, many people will say there is no such thing as too big but this is a matter for debate. Traction in the bush has a lot more to do with being able to get the tyre to bite the surface you are driving on rather than spreading the load over a greater area. Tread pattern and design are obviously important factors but the amount of downward pressure exerted on the contact surface is also very important. If you spread the weight of the vehicle over a larger suface area there is less weight per square inch on the contact surface. That is why very wide tyres and low tyre pressure work well rolling over the sand or on smooth hard surfaced boulders where you dont need them to dig in to get traction, they do not work so well on a muddy or loose surface where the vehicle is not heavy enough to push the tread down to a firm surface for traction. It's the reason that a camel has a big flat foot pad and a mountain goat has a small pointy two sided hoof, a good compromise somewhere in between is best for all round performance.

[brendan]

im in your area,im over nere blacktown. There may be a trip saturday night but not sure yet

[zookernator]

Its hard to put a figuire on how much i spent,, at the same time i did suspension work, inc drop shackles and rancho 9000's etc. The only cash that went straight to the lux conversion was from low range off road.. there prices are on their site. With the $ the way it is now, and with their pretty cheap postage rates, nows the time to shop up big!! hehe

[Reubs]

v.w.dave wrote:

That brings up a nother question.... Besides extending the drive shaft going tothe front diff, How hard is it to move the front axil forward?

Get a Calmini 3.5" lift kit. There was a little black Zuk in Tough Tracks last week with this kit. The springs in the kit move the axle at least 2" forward. You just need some driveshaft spacers to make it work. You don't need to modify any of the factory mounts, such as in a RUF setup.

[v.w.dave]

Hey Brendan
I was actualy thinking about going to watchthe 4x4 thing in Golbourn this long weekend. From what i have been told its well worht the drive. I dont think my zook will be healthy enough to go for a bash with how the rear diff is.

[shep]

moving the diff is as easy as redrilling the spring perch. just watch ya shock's as you may need to make a bottom mount as well.
this is calmini springs with a redrilled spring perch

[v.w.dave]

Hmm this looks perfect. only thing is now i need to find some 2" lift rear springs.... Ebay/wreckers/forum junk lists here I come.
I thin kwhat I am going to do about my shot diff is move the front diff center to the back and get a air locker for the front
This RUF looks to be my fix for the spring problem.
Thanks
I will take all the advice i can get

[want33s]

v.w.dave wrote:

I thin kwhat I am going to do about my shot diff is move the front diff center to the back and get a air locker for the front
...........
I will take all the advice i can get

Good luck moving the front diff to the back...
Front is 2 pinion... Rear is 4 pinion
Front centre will fit in rear but side gears are different.. Front has 22 spline... rear has 26 spline..
It is possible to swap the side gears but you really don't want a 2 pinuion centre in the rear.
I don't know exactly whats wrong with your diff but I'd put a spool in the rear and then air lock the front.

[v.w.dave]

HAHAHA shows how much I know about zooks.... Thank you again ....
Well there goes that idea......

[v.w.dave]

Honestly I have yet to look inside the diff but here is what happend and the side effect.
The day after I got the zook I took it to the bush to see exactly how well it went.
The diff breather was ripped off and without knowing the diff filled with water and I drove it over a 100ks home. The next morning I came outside to find 2 puddles of fluid around each of my back wheels. I took it up to my shop that day with it in the air I found my passanger side wheel would not freely (the brakes are not holding it) but the driver side is free rolling. I pulled both axils out and replaced the diff fluid, outter bearing and outter shaft seals. With it all back together it was still the same. I took it apart a second time to make sure everything was together correctly. When I spin the driver side the diff yoke (diff input) spins but not when i spin the passanger side.
In short I have yet to pull it out and actualy look at it.

[want33s]

Something else you will work out in due time: Baja Claws are possibly THE WORST tyre money can buy.

[Trojan]

want33s wrote:

Something else you will work out in due time: Baja Claws are possibly THE WORST tyre money can buy.

You know nothing about tyres.

How cool a tread pattern looks is directly proportional to how awsome they are offroad.

[v.w.dave]

As I said I got the zook only a few days ago..... It already had the tyres on it. and on last weekend thye worked great. I was in some very very sticky mud and some sharp rocks and had no problems at all.... They wouldn't be my first choise if I had the money in my hand. But sorry for having the wrong tyres

[steak_knife]

v.w.dave wrote:

As I said I got the zook only a few days ago..... It already had the tyres on it. and on last weekend thye worked great. I was in some very very sticky mud and some sharp rocks and had no problems at all.... They wouldn't be my first choise if I had the money in my hand. But sorry for having the wrong tyres

I`ll forgive you..

[v.w.dave]

here comes some more debate. I have the factory springs. if I kept the spoa and the 2" shackles and kept the 2" spring in the rear. How will it sit if I put the factory rear springs in the front?

OOHhhh and I keep forgetting to ask this....
The guy that i got it off of instead of doing the over spring steering set up. He put a drop pit/arm and a s-bend in the rod and work well but will not pass a inspection. Has anyone found a cheaper option the the 1200 knuckle / steering kit?

[zooker]

v.w.dave wrote:

here comes some more debate. I have the factory springs. if I kept the spoa and the 2" shackles and kept the 2" spring in the rear. How will it sit if I put the factory rear springs in the front?

OOHhhh and I keep forgetting to ask this....
The guy that i got it off of instead of doing the over spring steering set up. He put a drop pit/arm and a s-bend in the rod and work well but will not pass a inspection. Has anyone found a cheaper option the the 1200 knuckle / steering kit?

Get rid of the 2" shackles and lifted springs. Replace them with 2 sets of stock rear springs. This should drop it down a bit and help with stability, flex, and move the front diff forward

Fix the steering properly and get a snake racing knuckle
http://72.34.32.141/~snakerac/product_i ... 491cc7220c

[v.w.dave]

??? my tyre scrub as it is right now?
Wouldn't this make it much worse?

[2stroker]

Reubs wrote:

v.w.dave wrote:

That brings up a nother question.... Besides extending the drive shaft going tothe front diff, How hard is it to move the front axil forward?

Get a Calmini 3.5" lift kit. There was a little black Zuk in Tough Tracks last week with this kit. The springs in the kit move the axle at least 2" forward. You just need some driveshaft spacers to make it work. You don't need to modify any of the factory mounts, such as in a RUF setup.

2" seems pretty far, there has been a lot of debate in relation to how far you can go before the draglink and the track rod bind against each other during cycling of suspension and steering. Shep how far forward have you moved your diff housing, in the pic it looks like your tyre binds at the front now ?

[v.w.dave]

Can some one please show me the link on a good "RUF how to"