[mightyrollaman]

My standard tyres rub on the chassis rails on full lock on both sides, and I can't see any lock adjusters as per most passenger cars.

Is the adjustment within the swivel hub somewhere?

Can I adjust it myself or can it only be done by a wheel aligner?

[lump_a_charcoal]

Is there a nub on the back of the swivel housing?

[want33s]

You can fit a longer bolt to the swivel hub seals to reduce lock OR...
you can go larger offset rims OR
spacers OR
fit WT diffs.

[SuziBlu]

Spacers are the go, much cheaper than any other form of extension.

remember but, they are illegal on the black stuff.

Or, get a feel for the turning circle, and do not go beyond.

[boost=money]

put wt diffs under it cost me way less then wheel spacers and very easy to do took me about 3 or 4 hours to do

[steve]

Standard tyres rub on the chassis? Are you sure they are standard? Standard tyres are like 195 or 205s or something, on 15 x 5.5 rims.

SuziBlu wrote:

Spacers are the go, much cheaper than any other form of extension..

How much are they? I have only seen them for $100 each.

Bigger offset rims would be cheaper?

[royce]

there is no factory adjsutment but they shouldnt scrub unless they are 235's or so

jsut dont turn as much

[mightyrollaman]

The standard 205's on the standard little 15s do indeed rub.

I'll get an alignment and see if it makes any difference.

I'm putting 235/75 M/Ts on -23 15x8s on and want to make sure its all right when stock, before I start asking any more of her.

[want33s]

I bet you have Coily or Vitara rims with SFA offset.

[SuziBlu]

My spacers took about, 10 mins to fit, sweet as, cost a cupple of hundred for the for.

38mm. no more scrubbing.

[303zuke]

There should be a longer bolt head on one of the 8 bolts that retain the swivel housing seal that works as a bumpstop against the axle housing. These were standard on the LJs and N/T Sierra, but were deleted on the W/T because the hub was further out from the chassis.
If it's not there, the Suzuki part number is 45626-63001. I don't expect that you'd pay more than $5ea (even paying Stealership prices), cheaper than spacers and legal.

[mightyrollaman]

Thank you 303zuke! I can't wait to check it!

Just to show how standard my standard wheels are, here they are:

[2stroker]

boost=money wrote:

put wt diffs under it cost me way less then wheel spacers and very easy to do took me about 3 or 4 hours to do

WT to NT works very well and is better than spacers but I just don't see how it would cost way less, front and rear WT diffs complete hub to hub and drum to drum plus steering arms plus extended flexible brake lines will surely be more than a set of spacers which you can buy on the net for $200 delivered to your door .

And I can't see you doing the conversion in 3 or 4 hours.... it will take you a couple of hours just to cut off and reposition the mounts on the housings.

It goes something like this:

1. carefully cut mounts off a set of WT diffs
2. grind and clean up housing
3. reposition wide track mounts to NT position
4. reweld into NT possition
5. repaint where needed after grinding and welding
6. jack up car take off all wheels
7. undo steering arms
8. remove sway bar
9. disconnect tail shafts front and rear
10. disconnect brake lines front and rear
11. undo shockies front and rear
12. undo all ubolts holding housings to springs
13. remove the NT diff housings
14. if springs are sagged you may have to remove shackles to achieve this
15. replace with WT diffs
16. refit all ubolts
17. refit shockies
18. refit longer front flexible brake lines
19. refit rear brake lines
20. refit tail shafts
21. refit a WT swaybar
22. refit WT steering arms
23. bleed and adjust brakes
24. refit 4 wheels

Fair bit of work in all that.

[steak_knife]

2stroker wrote:

boost=money wrote:

put wt diffs under it cost me way less then wheel spacers and very easy to do took me about 3 or 4 hours to do

WT to NT works very well and is better than spacers but I just don't see how it would cost way less, front and rear WT diffs complete hub to hub and drum to drum plus steering arms plus extended flexible brake lines will surely be more than a set of spacers which you can buy on the net for $200 delivered to your door .

And I can't see you doing the conversion in 3 or 4 hours.... it will take you a couple of hours just to cut off and reposition the mounts on the housings.

It goes something like this:

1. carefully cut mounts off a set of WT diffs
2. grind and clean up housing
3. reposition wide track mounts to NT position
4. reweld into NT possition
5. repaint where needed after grinding and welding
6. jack up car take off all wheels
7. undo steering arms
8. remove sway bar
9. disconnect tail shafts front and rear
10. disconnect brake lines front and rear
11. undo shockies front and rear
12. undo all ubolts holding housings to springs
13. remove the NT diff housings
14. if springs are sagged you may have to remove shackles to achieve this
15. replace with WT diffs
16. refit all ubolts
17. refit shockies
18. refit longer front flexible brake lines
19. refit rear brake lines
20. refit tail shafts
21. refit a WT swaybar
22. refit WT steering arms
23. bleed and adjust brakes
24. refit 4 wheels

Fair bit of work in all that.

What about the yoke's?

[steak_knife]

mightyrollaman wrote:

Thank you 303zuke! I can't wait to check it!

Just to show how standard my standard wheels are, here they are:

That is one nice tin top.

[mightyrollaman]

Thanks Steknig. She was a real find!

Anywho, turns out I don't have the offending tall-head bolts I need to limit my lock.

So, I'm off to Suzuki tomorrow to get me some!

[2stroker]

steknig wrote:

2stroker wrote:

boost=money wrote:

put wt diffs under it cost me way less then wheel spacers and very easy to do took me about 3 or 4 hours to do

WT to NT works very well and is better than spacers but I just don't see how it would cost way less, front and rear WT diffs complete hub to hub and drum to drum plus steering arms plus extended flexible brake lines will surely be more than a set of spacers which you can buy on the net for $200 delivered to your door .

And I can't see you doing the conversion in 3 or 4 hours.... it will take you a couple of hours just to cut off and reposition the mounts on the housings.

It goes something like this:

1. carefully cut mounts off a set of WT diffs
2. grind and clean up housing
3. reposition wide track mounts to NT position
4. reweld into NT possition
5. repaint where needed after grinding and welding
6. jack up car take off all wheels
7. undo steering arms
8. remove sway bar
9. disconnect tail shafts front and rear
10. disconnect brake lines front and rear
11. undo shockies front and rear
12. undo all ubolts holding housings to springs
13. remove the NT diff housings
14. if springs are sagged you may have to remove shackles to achieve this
15. replace with WT diffs
16. refit all ubolts
17. refit shockies
18. refit longer front flexible brake lines
19. refit rear brake lines
20. refit tail shafts
21. refit a WT swaybar
22. refit WT steering arms
23. bleed and adjust brakes
24. refit 4 wheels

Fair bit of work in all that.

What about the yoke's?

What about them ?

[want33s]

I think Stekky's point is that if you fit entire WT diffs to an NT then you'll have to swap pinion flanges as the bolt size and spacing is different between them.

[steve]

so then you'd swap the NT diff centers in, which would add another couple of hours to the whole job, and that's if it all goes smoothly, which it never does


mightyrollaman

I don't think Suzuki will be able to help you, you'll just confuse them.

You might be better going to a bolt shop or somewhere like that and take one bolt with you and try and confuse them instead. Suzuki would probably want $150 per bolt and have to import it from somewhere

[mightyrollaman]

Righto, $7.5o from Suzuki, bit nil stock in Australia. Of course.


I'm off to Bunnings!

[steve]

wow , i 'm surprised Suzuki actually knew what you wanted.


I think Bunnings only has building kind of bolts which may be different to vehicle kind of bolts, like thread specs etc. A bolt shop might be your best bet.

PS. got a welder? i'd just weld another nut to the end of the bolt, if you're keen.

[303zuke]

mightyrollaman wrote:

Righto, $7.5o from Suzuki, bit nil stock in Australia. Of course.


I'm off to Bunnings!

Or a Suzuki wrecker?