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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 6:39 pm 
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Found these down at KB auto today. They are some sort of Mazda mount. Going to replace my t/case mounts with them and see how they go.

They are alot beefier than the stockers. cost $17.80ea.

Part # is MT8135.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:00 pm 
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Nice find let us know how they go.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:06 pm 
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they look the goods!

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:46 pm 
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they are the bigest you can fit with the NT drum brake on the transfer.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:06 pm 
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They look 100x better/stronger.
Let us know how they go. 8)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:22 pm 
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range rover engine/gbox mounts also fit.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:24 am 
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also honda civic engine mounts???but im sure people say the rangie and civic mounts are a bit pricey

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:01 am 
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You are still relying on vulcanised rubber though, it will fail eventually

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:26 pm 
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and we probably should support a fellow zuker (just cruizing) by buying his kit :wink:

They are in standard or 2" right?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:25 am 
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appsie wrote:
and we probably should support a fellow zuker (just cruizing) by buying his kit :wink:

They are in standard or 2" right?


Not everyone wants solid mounts.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:35 am 
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his mounts arnt solid, they have a crush tube that goes through
the center of the nolathene blocks. Cut out all my vibes and was easy enough to fit as well as being $$$ cheap

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:02 am 
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range rover mounts thats interesting my old man is a landrover mechanic, imports all parts from the uk might have to raid his stock again :twisted: i already chopped and modified some new rangie mudflaps to cover up my tires from the cops at the back

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:03 am 
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MrRocky wrote:
his mounts arnt solid, they have a crush tube that goes through
the center of the nolathene blocks. Cut out all my vibes and was easy enough to fit as well as being $$$ cheap


They are still solid mounts.

I'm with Taff on this one. The extra strength from the mazda mounts will be usefull, but at the end of the day I would rather break a mount than tear the side of my case open. :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:27 am 
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pics of landrover mounts
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Image

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:34 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
MrRocky wrote:
his mounts arnt solid, they have a crush tube that goes through
the center of the nolathene blocks. Cut out all my vibes and was easy enough to fit as well as being $$$ cheap


They are still solid mounts.

I'm with Taff on this one. The extra strength from the mazda mounts will be usefull, but at the end of the day I would rather break a mount than tear the side of my case open. :wink:



x2 its always good to have a week point 8)
im going over to repco tomorow so ill see if they got any hopfuly they can cross refrence the part number :?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:36 am 
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MrRocky
do you have a part number for that mount they look prity good

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:46 am 
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alex wrote:
MrRocky
do you have a part number for that mount they look prity good


Its in the picture :wink: :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:54 am 
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oh hay yer look at that :lol: :lol: :roll: :P 8O :D 8)

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:54 am 
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hey taff, how are the mounts holding up? much
stronger than the standard zook ones?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:56 am 
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Gee how much do you think i wheel!

only been in there 24hours and it hasnt even left the backyard yet!

Sunday will be the first test.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:16 pm 
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haha.
well you never know. :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:08 pm 
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Those landrover mounts look like they have enough thread length to put a spacer each side to lift the case as well. Stronger + Lifted + Cheap?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:19 pm 
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Reubs wrote:
Those landrover mounts look like they have enough thread length to put a spacer each side to lift the case as well. Stronger + Lifted + Cheap?


Indeed, I'll be running a set in my zook as well.. - can get them 50mm high as well for landrover mounts as my old work make a custom set with 1/2 inch bolts for a different type of purpose, but should be really strong.

Tom

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:06 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
MrRocky wrote:
his mounts arnt solid, they have a crush tube that goes through
the center of the nolathene blocks. Cut out all my vibes and was easy enough to fit as well as being $$$ cheap


They are still solid mounts.

I'm with Taff on this one. The extra strength from the mazda mounts will be usefull, but at the end of the day I would rather break a mount than tear the side of my case open. :wink:


They are not solid in the fact that have full polyurethane cushioning and there is no steel on steel contact between the chassis and the mount or the mount and the transfer case. They have a positive fixture in that they have a through bolt which will limit the movement.

If your mount lets go you could have more dramas also. If you case is going to fail, it'll fail whether you using heavy duty mounts or not. Fit a Roctoy ring, should be doing this regardless if you're running gears IMO.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Greg I think what Fatzook meant by "They are still solid mounts" has nothing to do with the poly blocks both sides but rather the fact that there is a single bolt right through, thus making it a solid connection.
Nothing to break as a weak link.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:07 pm 
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IMO it would be far worse for the transfer , unis etc to have the tc trying to do loops under your rig because of broken mounts than have a solid mount or one of gregs mounts with a bolt all the way through still retaining it in its correct position.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:58 pm 
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Greg: What jas said :D But I have to disagree with your comments on the case breaking regardless of mount type. The alloy case (undamaged) is far stronger than the OEM bonded mounts. The only way you could crack or break a case with reduction gears using OEM mounts would be to hit a rock. The mount will always let go first.

However I have seen plenty of long arm mounts twist with geared cases and OEM mounts... At the end of the day a rockring and solid mounts will just transfer the stress to another area. Probably the gears themselves.

ajsr: I've broken heaps. It knocks the floor for about 3 seconds until you realise whats happened. Then you get off the gas, pull over and change the mount. :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:31 am 
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Pete, seen plenty of cracked and destroyed cases through the gears adding extra force. Whether the cases were previously fatigued through rock strikes I can't say, lets face most are prone to bouncing off the odd rock.

Most of the guys running zook buggies totally replace the standard mounting arrangement and use spring bushes similar to the way Steve makes his engine mounts

Image

but then again they probably have multiple case to throw around.

Yes the standard mounts are the weak link and it's good to have one, then again people fit CrMo CV's too. It's a continual circle, I believe the OEM units are too weak and I don't think any vulcanised rubber unit will be much better.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:44 am 
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http://emags.newlitho.com.au/?mackaycon ... eisolators

Page 10 vibration rubbers

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:59 am 
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The old Mackay catologue, luv em.

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