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sr20zook
Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 164 Location: in front of computer
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 Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:26 am |
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Ok this got me thinking about it from reading another thread,
now when doing this are we talking about the first flat one or the second one? having searched around on the net it seems peeps are doing this (removing second leaf) to lower there utes but the fourby crowd removing the little flat bugger..am I gettin this right? any one got pics on doing this? looking at doing this to gain more flex cos lets face it flexin pulls chicks 
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v.w.dave
Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 1437 Location: The Hills Sydney
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:33 am |
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Yes you are removing the first curved leaf. it is normaly the second leaf.
_________________
Snap-On Dealer let me know if you need anything.
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89_tintop
az supporter
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 3159 Location: gold coast
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:34 am |
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hey mate the one you want to remove is the load leaf.
it is the bottom one on the pack.
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sr20zook
Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 164 Location: in front of computer
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:43 am |
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wtf 
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Junior_91
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 1084 Location: Ipswich
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:04 am |
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Remove the load leaf first which is the big fat one at the bottom then go from there.
_________________
TWIN LOCK IT & JUST DRIVE!
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Choppy
az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 1074 Location: sunshinecoast
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:10 am |
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ok mate i recently went through this dilema. on the rears i was told to remove both bottom leafs ie little fat one (load bearing, very bottom leaf) and first curved one (second leaf) for best results as mine was soo god damn stiff. however as i still use my sierra to cart ppl and campin gear sometimes i just removed the second leaf from the bottom as by keeping the little fat load bearing one there (very bottom leaf) i iwll have less tendency to cause sage in my springs. however for the best flex results remove very bottom load bearing leaf (little fat one) and perhaps the second. if it does happen to sag in time just chuk the bugger back in. i may in the future be removing my load bearing leaf and doing this once sagged. i had 5 leafs in my rear pack.
hope that helps. to do it get sum jacks as the plate that goes under the leafs and the u bolts go into needs to be jacked up flat into position nice and flush to reset into the bolt which holds it in and maintain no overhang from the leafs over the holes for the u bolt. DO ONE AT A TIME so ur diff doesnt move.
thats probs really confusing but i hope it helps
choppy
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want33s
az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 4:18 am |
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sr20zook
Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 164 Location: in front of computer
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:14 pm |
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you must pull heaps of chiks with flex like that!
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slowsierra
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 415 Location: Greenbank, QLD
Vehicle: 89'SWBsierra&84'LWBsierra
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:33 pm |
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hey guys i am about to start to removing the load leaf out of 2 inck king springs but i have just one question. how tight should the bushes be in the eye of the spring and when you tighten the shackles should that be really tight i have fatzook's shackles and bruce's bushes
thanks greg
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:48 pm |
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when im choosing the leaf to remove i undo the whole pack and lay the leaves out on the ground... then starting jumping on them! its not neccessarily the one with the most arch thats the stiffest.
As for tightening the shackles, you want it to be hand tight - you should feel and see it starting to compress the bushing, thats where you stop. If you over tighten it you'll just chew out the bush.
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slowsierra
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 415 Location: Greenbank, QLD
Vehicle: 89'SWBsierra&84'LWBsierra
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:56 pm |
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so it does not have to be really tight just enough to slightly compress the bush
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JrZook
Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 5517 Location: Holland Park
Vehicle: Awesome!!
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:56 pm |
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alien wrote: As for tightening the shackles, you want it to be hand tight - you should feel and see it starting to compress the bushing, thats where you stop. If you over tighten it you'll just chew out the bush.
Handtight . The shackle pins should have a step up to limit the amount they compress the bushings. Do they up reasonably tight otherwise any play here will wear out the shackle.
Dan _________________ Lil Foot!
http://tiny.cc/gtsw1
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slowsierra
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 415 Location: Greenbank, QLD
Vehicle: 89'SWBsierra&84'LWBsierra
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:00 pm |
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when i put the shackle over the the bushes to bolt it up it goes on with a slight gap(1mm or so) and if i tighten it so it is snug on the bush it bends the shackle
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JrZook
Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 5517 Location: Holland Park
Vehicle: Awesome!!
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:02 pm |
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slowsierra wrote: when i put the shackle over the the bushes to bolt it up it goes on with a slight gap(1mm or so) and if i tighten it so it is snug on the bush it bends the shackle
Pic? _________________ Lil Foot!
http://tiny.cc/gtsw1
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slowsierra
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 415 Location: Greenbank, QLD
Vehicle: 89'SWBsierra&84'LWBsierra
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:06 pm |
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pm me your email addy i can email them
thanks greg
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2stroker
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 2689 Location: North Brisbane
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Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:11 am |
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Ok, as he said he is using some of the alloy aftermarket Fatzook shackles, they are not like factory shackles, no step up in the bolt. From previous posts Fatzook says that they are designed to be used with nylock nuts and you just nip the nut up against the side and leave it, as you have found if you tighten it up past that or the alloy bends in and binds on the bush and you will have worse suspension than you started with. I put an engne in a white ute which had those shackles, the ride was stupid, it felt like it had no suspension, I had a look and saw that the dude had tightened them to a point that the sides had bent in and the suspension had bound, I took them off straightened them and refitted them, he thought he had a new car.
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steak_knife
az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:25 am |
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2stroker wrote: Ok, as he said he is using some of the alloy aftermarket Fatzook shackles, they are not like factory shackles, no step up in the bolt. From previous posts Fatzook says that they are designed to be used with nylock nuts and you just nip the nut up against the side and leave it, as you have found if you tighten it up past that or the alloy bends in and binds on the bush and you will have worse suspension than you started with. I put an engne in a white ute which had those shackles, the ride was stupid, it felt like it had no suspension, I had a look and saw that the dude had tightened them to a point that the sides had bent in and the suspension had bound, I took them off straightened them and refitted them, he thought he had a new car.
 Alloy thay are not...
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