[Bugsta]

Where do I get a heap of Hub cones?

[BlueSuzy]

For a locking hub?

Try wreckers? Any lux/oldercruiser/zook asian hub will be same.

[Bugsta]

Yeah for locking hubs.

Surely they can be bought new, or in bulk. I seem to break bolts (even High Tensile) a lot and I can only ever find a few if any of them on the ground.

[BlueSuzy]

Upgrade!

[mudzookacoatsy]

I've got sum

[Bugsta]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Upgrade!

To what?

[Bugsta]

BlueSuzy - What do you mean by upgrade?

[2stroker]

60 series toyota stud type apparently

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... =fwh+bolts

[BlueSuzy]

Yeah you can go 60 series or larger 100 series.

[2stroker]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Yeah you can go 60 series or larger 100 series.

That does not make any sense, 60 series have studs instead of bolts and we know that 60 series fit, so if in fact 100 series are larger than 60 series then they wont fit.

[BlueSuzy]

Correct. Using 100series rear stud tapers is an upgrade. Will need re-drilling/re-tapping/re-taper reaming like alot of the cruiser guys do on their rear axles. Or Make the bolt threads larger and make the bolts a tight fit into the hubs. No taper washers.

But, I have no idea how your snapping the studs in the 1st place, When most toyotas have the same design but the rest is stronger driveline, and never changed for years!

[2stroker]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Correct. Using 100series rear stud tapers is an upgrade. Will need re-drilling/re-tapping/re-taper reaming like alot of the cruiser guys do on their rear axles. Or Make the bolt threads larger and make the bolts a tight fit into the hubs. No taper washers.

But, I have no idea how your snapping the studs in the 1st place, When most toyotas have the same design but the rest is stronger driveline, and never changed for years!

I don't think that is an option though, there is less than a mm to the edge of the hub so youcant make the taper or hole any bigger. Yeah I don't understand why he is breaking them either.

[BlueSuzy]

There maybe a problem with the location then. Is there enough room to drill into the Jimny hub for some dowels?

On my Lux diffs, The Hub has 2 dowel pins. If these are Rounded off, Missing, Or damaged. You replace them. Like wise for the chrome locking hub holes for the pins, If the holes are rounded, It will keep happening. Cruiser rear axles are the same.
There should be very limited turning action. The bolts are there to hold the hub onto the dowels, otherwise its like driving with 6x M8 bolts as wheel studs.

On my sierra, i never had this problem, And it is not very common. I have heard of cv's and axles and internal locking rings breaking but not hub bolts..

Sounds like you need stronger bolts other than the suzuki crap.

[2stroker]

Yeah you are right the Toyota ones have two dowels, the original Toyota dowels are pretty small, you can get an aftermarket kit to drill them out and fit bigger dowels.

Suzuki dont have dowels at all, the face of the bearing hub is scaloped away and there is no space for a dowel, the FWH housing however is obviously generic to other cars because it has the two holes for dowels like a Toyota FWH.

The only time that I have seen broken bolts on Suzuki they are uually loose and/or badly corroded.

[want33s]

I snapped all six bolts in my LH hub on Tower of Terror at Ormeau.
I just replaced the stock bolts with M8x1.25 Socket head cap screws...Grade 12.9.
I haven't had a drama since upgrading mine.

[2stroker]

Yeah Jas I have come across ones that are finger tight when I have heen pulling them apart, the first thing that you would know of them being loose is when you break them. I am sure they get overtightened and stretched as well which would also weaken them. As you say if you replace them with new ones no more dramas.

[Bugsta]

I think part of the reason for snapping is movement in the bolt holes in the 10mm spacer. It is not a perfect tight fit, and I think they break because they work loose. The spacers were made on a lathe and the holes traced from the hub. I have since wanted to get spacers made up with higher tolerance and more accurate holes.

I have been using High Tensile socket heads for a while now.

[want33s]

Bugsta wrote:

I think part of the reason for snapping is movement in the bolt holes in the 10mm spacer. It is not a perfect tight fit, and I think they break because they work loose. The spacers were made on a lathe and the holes traced from the hub. I have since wanted to get spacers made up with higher tolerance and more accurate holes.

I have been using High Tensile socket heads for a while now.

Oh OK the plot thickens... Adding a spacer between the hub and the locking hub puts a lot of extra strain on the bolts.
I would suggest 12.9 bolts in conjunction with dowel pins fitted to both sides of the spacer to stop the twisting action..

[Bugsta]

I believe they are 12.9.

I just ned to find someon who can make accurate spacers so they are symmetrical, identicaland interchangable, and of course do same for dowels on spacer and hub.

[want33s]

Bugsta wrote:

I believe they are 12.9.

I just ned to find someon who can make accurate spacers so they are symmetrical, identicaland interchangable, and of course do same for dowels on spacer and hub.

Send a PM to Suspectengineering.