kronix wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
Hi Wade.
You will have to pull your crank out to swap in another one, and you'd be mad to do that without putting new main bearings etc in at the same time.
Why not pull your crank out, number the bearings as you remove them, so they can be put back in later ( if they are servicable) , and take the crank to an engine rebuilder, and have them weld up the hole, re-drill and tap to suit standard crank bolt. They can also fix keyway damage if it has any. It will probably cost you less, will be quicker, and you won't be slapping another worn out part back in.
You will have to pull your crank out to swap in another one, and you'd be mad to do that without putting new main bearings etc in at the same time.
Why not pull your crank out, number the bearings as you remove them, so they can be put back in later ( if they are servicable) , and take the crank to an engine rebuilder, and have them weld up the hole, re-drill and tap to suit standard crank bolt. They can also fix keyway damage if it has any. It will probably cost you less, will be quicker, and you won't be slapping another worn out part back in.
Hey mate, thanks for your reply.
I have already pulled the engine out. My plan was to get another crank and replace the main and big end bearings and put it back together. I think I would rather another crank then have mine repaired as I don't want the threads pulled out again.
I see your point here. But it would still be advisable to get the second hand crank inspected before using, as it too may require work, so you could atleast pull your crank and have it inspected first. Repairs are usually as good as new.
And the reason that your bolt has stripped is most likely because the tool before you fucked it, then cheaped out on the repair (helicoil). An engine builder will ensure crank is within tolerance, and REPAIR the hole properly.
My 2 cents.
