[Brodie]

Hi guys,

Just signed up and did a heap of reading.
I currently drive a 2008 Ford Ranger. While it is a great ute it is missing the character I am after.

So from all my research what I have worked out is that I am after a Wide track hard top.
I plan to restore it and do a few mods before selling the Ranger.
The Zuk will be used as a daily when it is finished. I will be doing some basic wheeling and some beach work. It will be mainly used as a tourer. I would like to run 31s and don't mind putting a body lift in but would rather do a virtual lift to keep the centre of gravity low.

I am happy to repair a few rust spots and have decent mechanical ability.
I live on the Gold Coast but don't mind traveling to get the right Zuk.

Let me know what is available. Even if it needs a bit of work to get running I don't mind, so long as it isn't a basket case.

[303zuke]

Brodie wrote:

..........will be used as a daily when it is finished. I will be doing some basic wheeling and some beach work. It will be mainly used as a tourer.

I would like to run 31s .........

31s will not suit your uses (and will actually be worse off), you will be better off with 215's, maybe 235's or 30s, unless wank factor looks are more important to you.

Everything else you say sounds good, just the tyre choice stands out as wrong.

[Brodie]

Yep I thought something smaller may be needed.
I am not great with metric sizes but will have to learn. 30s seem like the better choice after doing a bit more reading. Looks like 31s and higher need new TC gears
Functionality is far more important that looks I think.

[bumstein]

Good one mate!! Hope you find a gem, welcome to the zook family (or intended integration)!
Just a consideration or two. I run 235/75R15’s on all of mine. It’s roughly 29x9” the in yankee talk. There is also nothing wrong with stock sized tyres and you can choose a tread pattern to suit (I like bridgestone myself but theres many many varied opinions on this).
They will clear the outriggers and any bodywork by a poofteenth without any modifications. They’re still larger than standard by around 9.8% circumference. I’ll attach a comparison pic.
For this size I still recommend reduction gears in the TC. Any increase in tyre size needs to be countered by gearing somewhere else in the drive train (transfer case being the easiest) as they have nearly no extra horsepower, kw or whatever measure pleases you. 
Increased gearing = decreased functionality when you start talking about 5th gear. 
The easiest (and often the cheapest) way to regent to suit the 235’s is find a 1lt switched transfer case. That will bring high range gearing back into line with stock. However if you’ve got a little more splash cash then you might consider installing aftermarket gears, I’ll give some examples in relation to stock WT diffs, 5 speed WT 5th gear and 235’s. 
Stock tyres and gearing, 5th gear high range (HR) at 100kph is 3577rpm
Stock WT gearing with 235’s, 5th gear HR at 100kph is 3258rpm. That equates to 8.92% increase in gearing (if I have my calcs right).
Stock WT diffs and gearbox (GB) with 235's and 1lt transfer case, HR, in 5th gear at 100kph is 3654rpm. This is a reduction of 2.1%, close to negligible but in your favour. 
Now heres where I might confuse you.
WT diffs, GB, 235's and 1ltr case in LOW RANGE (LR) at, lets say second gear at 15kph (perfect beach work) is 1963rpm.
if you end up with LROR reduction gears you'll get the following.
4.16 TC reduction gears, WT diffs, WT BG, 235's;HR 5th at 100kph = 3654 (2.10% reduction, same as the 1ltr TC)LR 2nd at 15kph = 3254 (39.6% reduction)
4.9 TC reduction gears, WT diffs, WT GB 235's;HR 5th at 100pkh = 3767rpm (13.5% reduction)LR 2nd at 15kph = 3806rpm (48% reduction).
metric crapload of info there and I have to add the disclaimer that I'm a few drinks down now (but still able to type with around 46.2% accuracy compared to stock), but i think i've got the calcs right or pretty close.
Summary: based on WT Diffs, GB and running 235's a 1ltr switched case will make your Sierra acceptably normal. HR is stock and LR is good (fine for beach work for sure).
4.19 TC gears will still be good in high range but will make low range better, lower gearing in LR is more versatile and allows you to crawl if your tackling some rougher stuff.4.9 TC gears will have it revving higher on the highway, probably still pretty reasonable for highway use but might rev out a little high at 110kph (4144rpm) but night still be acceptable. LR will have you crawling rough stuff in LR with ease and still keep beach work easy, could likely stay in 3rd in LR on the beach (2782rpm at 15kph).
Ok, so hopefully I haven't confused you any more than I've thrown my own thought train off the tracks. Secondly I hope my calcs are somewhat correct. Just a whole bunch of food for thought. 
I will leave you with one final though though, as far as mods go I suggest to go very conservative. Drive it heaps and reassess what works, what doesn't and what you're willing to trade off to improve it in other areas. A comprehensive list of mods as I see it are:tyresTC reduction gears to suitlockers front and rear (the gold standard being air lockers, but might depend on your budget).then drive it heaps. 
Phew!!! I'm off for a refill, feel free to ask questions etc if you want clarification or more info. Hope I've at least helped a little

On Mon, May 4, 2020 at 7:22 PM Jon Flockton <jonflockton@gmail.com> wrote:
Good one mate!! Hope you find a gem, welcome to the zook family (or intended integration)!
Just a consideration or two. I run 235/75R15’s on all of mine. It’s roughly 29x9” the in yankee talk.
They will clear the outriggers and any bodywork by a poofteenth without any modifications. They’re still larger than standard by around 9.8% circumference. I’ll attach a comparison pic.
For this size I still recommend reduction gears in the TC. Any increase in tyre size needs to be countered by gearing somewhere else in the drive train (transfer case being the easiest) as they have nearly no extra horsepower, kw or whatever measure pleases you. 
Increased gearing = decreased functionality when you start talking about 5th gear. 
The easiest (and often the cheapest) way to regent to suit the 235’s is find a 1lt switched transfer case. That will bring high range gearing back into line with stock. However if you’ve got a little more splash cash then you might consider installing aftermarket gears, I’ll give some examples in relation to stock WT diffs, 5 speed WT 5th gear and 235’s. 
Stock tyres and gearing, 5th gear at 100kph is 3577rpm
Stock WT gearing with 235’s, 5th gear at 100kph is 3258rpm. 

[bumstein]

That equates to 8.92% increase in gearing (if I have my calcs right).
Stock WT diffs and gearbox (GB) with 235's and 1lt transfer case, HR, in 5th gear at 100kph is 3654rpm. This is a reduction of 2.1%, close to negligible but in your favour. 
Now heres where I might confuse you.
WT diffs, GB, 235's and 1ltr case in LOW RANGE (LR) at, lets say second gear at 15kph (perfect beach work) is 1963rpm.
if you end up with LROR reduction gears you'll get the following.
4.16 TC reduction gears, WT diffs, WT BG, 235's;HR 5th at 100kph = 3654 (2.10% reduction, same as the 1ltr TC)LR 2nd at 15kph = 3254 (39.6% reduction)
4.9 TC reduction gears, WT diffs, WT GB 235's;HR 5th at 100pkh = 3767rpm (13.5% reduction)LR 2nd at 15kph = 3806rpm (48% reduction).
metric crapload of info there and I have to add the disclaimer that I'm a few drinks down now (but still able to type with around 46.2% accuracy compared to stock), but i think i've got the calcs right or pretty close.
Summary: based on WT Diffs, GB and running 235's a 1ltr switched case will make your Sierra acceptably normal. HR is stock and LR is good (fine for beach work for sure).
4.19 TC gears will still be good in high range but will make low range better, lower gearing in LR is more versatile and allows you to crawl if your tackling some rougher stuff.4.9 TC gears will have it revving higher on the highway, probably still pretty reasonable for highway use but might rev out a little high at 110kph (4144rpm) but night still be acceptable. LR will have you crawling rough stuff in LR with ease and still keep beach work easy, could likely stay in 3rd in LR on the beach (2782rpm at 15kph).
Ok, so hopefully I haven't confused you any more than I've thrown my own thought train off the tracks. Secondly I hope my calcs are somewhat correct. Just a whole bunch of food for thought. 
I will leave you with one final though though, as far as mods go I suggest to go very conservative. Drive it heaps and reassess what works, what doesn't and what you're willing to trade off to improve it in other areas. A comprehensive list of mods as I see it are:tyresTC reduction gears to suitlockers front and rear (the gold standard being air lockers, but might depend on your budget).then drive it heaps. 
Phew!!! I'm off for a refill, feel free to ask questions etc if you want clarification or more info. Hope I've at least helped a little

Good luck in your search for the perfect Sierra!

[Brodie]

Thanks mate, that has help expand my knowledge a fair bit.
So it looks like I should be on the lookout for a 1lt TC. If I can get the 235x75 under without mods than they might be the go.
I will have to look into lockers a bit more. I don't have much knowledge of how they operate. I understand their function though.

Here's to hoping that something comes up in my area in my price range so I can get stuck in.

[303zuke]

You could have a look at this one:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/byron-b ... 1244454332

[Brodie]

Have that one on my watch list. Thanks mate.

There is another that I have messaged about but am waiting for a reply still.

[303zuke]

FYI That one is a first model WT, the so-called 88.5.

It is still an SJ50 model, with a 1324cc G13A engine and 3.9 diffs and the painted plastic flares.

From 89-on, the WT became the SJ70 with a 1298cc G13BA engine with 3.7 diffs and painted metal flares.

The lower diffs of the SJ50 means your can comfortably "turn" tyres one size larger than the SJ70 off-road, but the free-er revving G13BA engine and higher diffs make the SJ70 a better highway cruiser to get away to weekend destinations.

[bumstein]

Brodie wrote:

Thanks mate, that has help expand my knowledge a fair bit.
So it looks like I should be on the lookout for a 1lt TC. If I can get the 235x75 under without mods than they might be the go.
I will have to look into lockers a bit more. I don't have much knowledge of how they operate. I understand their function though.

Here's to hoping that something comes up in my area in my price range so I can get stuck in.

Glad if I helped!

Auto lockers and Mini-spool are the usual ones people use. Some people weld up the diff (rear only) so they’re full time locked.

I won’t comment on auto lockers and minispools. I haven’t used them but there’s plenty of info here if you search. You’ll also find great variation in opinions.

Air lockers are gold standard, they work well and lock on command when you want them, free when you don’t.

Air lockers cost more. If it isn’t in your budget to have two lockers installed plus the air compressor you’ll need on board, then perhaps consider having a rear locker put in. Then you can put a front one in later if you choose to.

Front axles are 22 spline, however if you want to upgrade to chromo axles they are 26 spline (Stock rear diffs on a Sierra are 26 spline). Chromo axles are tougher and you might want them, but for beach work it’s not essential IMO.

If you want to fit a front air locker and use with standard axles they sell 22 spline front air lockers to suit. If you want to install chromo axles then you need to buy a 26 spline rear air locker to use in the front with the chromos.

All this really means is before buying a front locker, decide if you want to keep standard axles or upgrade to chromos.

Best of luck in the search! Hope you find a gem

[Brodie]

Awesome, thanks guys.

I am looking at a 1991 model Sierra JX. Still waiting on the bloke to get back to me though.
So narrowing it down even further I am after an SJ70 I recon.
As for the lockers. I plan to keep this car for a long time (once I get one) so air lockers will be the go. As for the rear locker in the front. Will I need to purchase another diff centre to fit the locker too or just new axles and keep the original front diff centre?

[bumstein]

You can keep the original diff and purchase a 26 spline (rear) air locker for the front. The original diff will donate its casing, ring and pinion.

Good call to do do stuff over time!! You’ll be able to everything you want with it anyway and gives you time to decide what you want and actually need. I’m a big advocate for very conservative mods.

SJ70 is a good choice! I don’t think you can go wrong with a Sierra of any model, give it love and treat it nice and it will serve you for many years to come!! As you said you’ve got good mechanical skills and they’re easy to work on. The only thing I don’t touch myself are diffs. I had my lockers installed by a diff bloke.

Don’t forget to send pics when you find one!! We love pics

[Brodie]

Thanks Bumstien.

Once I get my grubby mitts on a Sierra I will start a build thread.

[Brodie]

Still waiting for the bloke with the 91 model to get back to me. Only been a week. Good things come to those who wait I hope.

[Brodie]

Out of curiosity. How does an SJ80 compare to the SJ70 for basic off road and beach work.
I don't plan to do any hard wheeling, and most of the time it will be used as a daily on road.

[Jack jr]

I have an sj80 now for daily duty and i find it more comfortable then the leaf sierras, i haven't done much off road with it as i haven't owned it long, but what i have done it has done well
i think the only issues come when you fit much bigger tyres and want a front locker, or drive it very hard.
Cheers Jack jr

[Gwagensteve]

an SJ80 will be slightly more comfortable comparing stock to stock and they do look a little nicer They are a bit of a nightmare though - they have VERY limited parts compatibility with the leaf cars even though they look the pretty much the same. Because they weren't sold in many markets and were only available for two years, the aftermarket doesn't support them well. Personally, I also think they're overpriced. An early jimny or late vitara is a better car if you're looking for a daily and aren't planning hard 4WDing.

[greenzook89]

I owned an SJ80 for 5 years. It had 4.16 sierra transfer, rear airlocker and 235s. It was a great little unit for beach and easy/med club trips. I only moved it on as I wanted to step up to twin locked and harder tracks and it made nore sense to start with a leafy soft top for that type of work.

[Brodie]

Thanks guys,
After doing a bit of reading I think I will continue my search for a SJ70. I much prefer the dash of the wide track and would prefer to have more parts available as I plan to keep the Sierra for some time.

Here is a link to the '91 model I am looking at. Still waiting to hear back from the seller. Looks like he has seen my message from what I understand of the Gumtree app.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/chinchilla/cars-vans-utes/suzuki-sierra/1243634463

[Brodie]

Still no reply about that one I posted above.
Seems to be a fair few NT pop up for cheap more often then the WT. I prefer the dash of the WT over the NT as it will fit my plans for the car better.
As I don't have Facebook I have no way of checking Marketplace for any deals. Could someone keep an eye out for me?

[bumstein]

Marketplace is one of very few reasons I still have FB. Something will come along!! I looked for 2 years before I found my first one, it’s still the pride of the fleet

[Brodie]

Still looking but my preference of style has changed.
After thinking about life without a ute I don't think I would manage.
So now I am after a hard top ute. Not the stockman style with the fibreglass roof and back.
I would like one of the 1.3lt '85 or newer.
If you have one sitting around let me know.