[Mugwui]

So I'm trying to ge the diff centres out of a 96 Vit and they wont budge, is it a case of give them a good wack with a mallet or is there another trick?
Also, do I have to lift the enging to get to the front diff, or will it come out as it sit now?

[royce]

front will com out as 1 bit but you need to remove the mount from the crossmember completely IIRC

to split eh centre from the housing, yeah good wack with a rubber mallet or a lever with a prybar

[steve]

diff centers usually need a bit of a bang sideways to break the sealant/gasket gue. I use a block of wood on it and hit the wood with a hammer, sideways to break the seal.

[31zook]

It could be just the gasket, holding it on i always get a jack and pry it appart slowly... Naver done it on a vit tho...

[steak_knife]

You could just ask the local post whore to come over & teach!

S'not like he dose any thing.

Apart from whoring out his post!

[Mugwui]

You could come over tomorrow if you like?

[Mugwui]

And while you here you could help me pull the engine out.....
Oh, and bring and engine crane with you!

[steak_knife]

Mugwui wrote:

And while you here you could help me pull the engine out.....
Oh, and bring and engine crane with you!

I wish I had one, you got a grinder? gas axe?

[Mugwui]

I have got a grinder, only a small one though, and no gas axe but a mate around the is a plumber, I'm sure he'll have one!

[steak_knife]

You have Pm.

[Mugwui]

You have reply PM.

[Stuey]

Jack method is a good idea. I just used a rubber mallet. Prybar only if needed as you can damage the gasket faces (or if this is the diff you are ripping the R&P out for your GV locker conversion then anything goes). Just leave a bolt or two in loose so when the gasket does give, it doesnt come crashing down on you (that is provided the diff is still in the car and you are working underneath).

[steak_knife]

Stuey wrote:

Jack method is a good idea. I just used a rubber mallet. Prybar only if needed as you can damage the gasket faces (or if this is the diff you are ripping the R&P out for your GV locker conversion then anything goes). Just leave a bolt or two in loose so when the gasket does give, it doesnt come crashing down on you (that is provided the diff is still in the car and you are working underneath).

He's got a steknig now.

& a grinder

[Stuey]

steknig wrote:

Stuey wrote:

Jack method is a good idea. I just used a rubber mallet. Prybar only if needed as you can damage the gasket faces (or if this is the diff you are ripping the R&P out for your GV locker conversion then anything goes). Just leave a bolt or two in loose so when the gasket does give, it doesnt come crashing down on you (that is provided the diff is still in the car and you are working underneath).

He's got a steknig now.

& a grinder

I'm not sure if thats good or bad

[steak_knife]

I like spark maker's, thay make spark's.

[Mugwui]

Stuey wrote:

Jack method is a good idea. I just used a rubber mallet. Prybar only if needed as you can damage the gasket faces (or if this is the diff you are ripping the R&P out for your GV locker conversion then anything goes). Just leave a bolt or two in loose so when the gasket does give, it doesnt come crashing down on you (that is provided the diff is still in the car and you are working underneath).

I'm pretty good with a knockometer, but I'm sure that haveing a Steking will be usefull, and Yes, these are the diffs, that I'm puting into the GV.
Has anyone come up with any simple Ideas as to how to what to do with the right hand CV yet?

[steak_knife]

Mugwui wrote:

Stuey wrote:

Jack method is a good idea. I just used a rubber mallet. Prybar only if needed as you can damage the gasket faces (or if this is the diff you are ripping the R&P out for your GV locker conversion then anything goes). Just leave a bolt or two in loose so when the gasket does give, it doesnt come crashing down on you (that is provided the diff is still in the car and you are working underneath).

I'm pretty good with a knockometer, but I'm sure that haveing a Steking will be usefull, and Yes, these are the diffs, that I'm puting into the GV.
Has anyone come up with any simple Ideas as to how to what to do with the right hand CV yet?

Pm joeblow, see what he say's, I got an idea but it would void ya ARB warranty.

[Mugwui]

steknig wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

Stuey wrote:

Jack method is a good idea. I just used a rubber mallet. Prybar only if needed as you can damage the gasket faces (or if this is the diff you are ripping the R&P out for your GV locker conversion then anything goes). Just leave a bolt or two in loose so when the gasket does give, it doesnt come crashing down on you (that is provided the diff is still in the car and you are working underneath).

I'm pretty good with a knockometer, but I'm sure that haveing a Steking will be usefull, and Yes, these are the diffs, that I'm puting into the GV.
Has anyone come up with any simple Ideas as to how to what to do with the right hand CV yet?

Pm joeblow, see what he say's, I got an idea but it would void ya ARB warranty.

Dont want to go down that track.

[steak_knife]

It's what thay should be doing anyway if thay sell it for the front of a gv, even tho thay say it's a rear, if thay sell it to fit it should.
The right hand side gear need's to be machined so the retaining clip can do it's job, this would not affect the performance of a rear fit.

But I could be wrong, seam to be happening more often of late.

[Mugwui]

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

[royce]

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

Same prob tho, what hold's it in???
Don't say the Cv cause that don't work for the cv, won't work for a stub!

[Mugwui]

royce wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

You lost me at Stub, Please explain?

[royce]

steknig wrote:

royce wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

Same prob tho, what hold's it in???
Don't say the Cv cause that don't work for the cv, won't work for a stub!

1.6 CV will fit and stay fine in an airlocker cause thats what its designed for

its only all them fancy wide tracked namby pamby flared 2 litre things and GV's that have the drama

[royce]

Mugwui wrote:

royce wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

You lost me at Stub, Please explain?

get vit drivers inner CV, cut CV off so you have bit that slides inside diff

get the inner axle bit, the bit that joins diff centre to passenger shaft, cut flange bit that passenger shaft bolts to off

weld both bits together

smack into drivers side, you now have the 3 bolt flange on both sides of diff

fit passenger shaft to drivers side as well as passenger side

[steak_knife]

Mugwui wrote:

royce wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

You lost me at Stub, Please explain?

Make a Lil shaft like the pass side so you have a flange at the diff instead of putting the Cv shaft into the diff.

If you don't get that I'll show ya tomorrow.

[Mugwui]

so if I attach a 1.6 inner cv to my GV shaft and outer cv, will that work?
I am lead to believe that it is only the length that I have to get right?

[steak_knife]

steknig wrote:

royce wrote:

Mugwui wrote:

I have been told to try an inner cv out of Vit, so considering I have one, it might be worth a try?

wont fit the GV shaft

make a stub out of the inner CV and the flange off the passenger axle thingy, run 2 GV passenger shafts, only need 1 spare shaft and both can be replaced on the track without a jack, job done

Same prob tho, what hold's it in???
Don't say the Cv cause that don't work for the cv, won't work for a stub!

Royce?

[Stuey]

Mugwui, I dont know if you read my posts and the headache I had fitting the front locker to mine due to the RHS CV, but in the end it was actually ARB that machined down my side gear to let the circlip work and since they were the ones that did it there were no warrenty voiding concerns.

Have a look at this link for pics of a stub axle being made up:
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/f ... endmod.htm

I assume from Royces post that all the drilling of the Zuk chassis/frame doesnt need to be done on the wider chassis 2.0/GV models?

[Mugwui]

Thanks Stuey,
after Steknig helped me get...hang on...I'll refrase, after Steknig took my diffs out for me today, I have decided to let ARB do the total install of the locker, diffs, etc etc, then it is their problem as I figure, they are selling me the product, then installing it, so if it doesen't work, I then take it back to them and say FIX IT.