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Post Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 11:30 pm 
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I read through a few threads to try and find the best way to extend the chassis forwards just a bit, but funnily enough they all degenerated into name calling contests. BTW I think VW dave lost.

Anyway, does anyone have detailed pics, drawings or an explanation on the best way to achieve this?

I want to do a full RUF, as well as strengthen the front end for recoveries and a winch down the track.

The way I have worked out is to cut out the tube in the chassis rail (and various bolts), slide in some snug fitting rhs, slide new rhs over it, and plug weld to chassis.
Then replace pipe right through extension piece, and fit a fissure plate over each side.

Sorry for the bad explanation, I have the dumb.

I'll try to draw what I mean...

Image


Last edited by lump_a_charcoal on Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 11:41 pm 
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i understand what you mean. why don't you just cut behind the steering box on a 45deg slope, slide the rhs in the back of the section you just cut off then slide the extended piece onto your zook, drill some holes in it first and plate them after. This moves your steering box forward, leaves the pipe alone (this would also hold it all in alignment). You would just have to fab up some rad mounts, but if your doing all this then wouldn't worry you...

look up mooses build on here....

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:04 am 
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Is that engineerable?

I thought extending was OK, but cutting and extending was taboo?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:06 am 
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Cant see why, trucks get cut n welded all the time.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:12 am 
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Hmmm - OK... Ill have to talk to an engineer to gauge their reaction I guess...

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:19 am 
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Id do that, but, you will probably have to use an accredited welder to do the job, no homers so to speak.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:32 am 
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My mate is a fully ticketed boiler maker, and has been working on trucks for years, incl. chassis work... he is happy to do it.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:53 am 
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Larfin. The engineer will look favorably hopefully

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 5:23 am 
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yes but you will need to cut it properly, for example, cut vertically down 40mm from the top the across on a slope then 40mm up from the bottom. Im not sure about engineering, but athol mullen was laughing at a cement truck that came in to his place with a straight vertical through the chassis.. he didn't pass it and it had to be re done... was very expensive...

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:10 am 
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I'll have a quick search for you. I think there was a thread where both PJ.zook and gwagonsteve both posted up some awesome photo's of how to do it.. pj's looked good and steve's looked especially good.

edit: found it http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=9208&highlight=ruf

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 9:55 am 
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I will be extending mine 50mm. 'fishnchip' plates.

Only has to hold a powersteering box and a winch with bar.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:20 am 
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I put 60 mm in mine
I only required 30mm for the ruf set the way I wanted, but I used the rest for a proper bar mount setup.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:31 pm 
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more than welcome to pop over and check out mine my friend.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:54 pm 
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linc- mines done by butt welding the additional length straight on (no overlaps) - plating had to be done top and bottom and not on the sides (engineers request) then the 2 rails are joined by more 'chassis' across the front to tie them together. from there additional gusseting is done for rigidity. Wherever possible use diamond shapes for fish plates etc so you get more weld.

pics that kinds show it:

Image
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Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:19 am 
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Very cool - I might pop over Joel, can I look at your zook too?


Nice flex Aron!!!

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:38 am 
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This ones better:
Image

thats me vs. Mr Rocky =P ignore the donuts around the rocks... lol

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