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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:07 am 
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Any big tips to catch out a first timer?

I've done plenty of welding but only 4mm+ thick pipe and plate.

I know to go slow and take my time, keep everything clear of paint etc, and be mindfull of what is nearby (eitherside) that may burn.

Is it as simple as cut plate to size with a 1-2mm gap the whole way round, and then just tack my way around slowley to stop heat transfer and warpage and grind back-bog up-sound deaden?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:16 am 
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i just layed into mine with a stick welder and hit it with a hose to put the fire out when i finished.
the seat mount hasn't broken yet. :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:49 am 
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shakes wrote:
Any big tips to catch out a first timer?

I've done plenty of welding but only 4mm+ thick pipe and plate.

I know to go slow and take my time, keep everything clear of paint etc, and be mindfull of what is nearby (eitherside) that may burn.

Is it as simple as cut plate to size with a 1-2mm gap the whole way round, and then just tack my way around slowley to stop heat transfer and warpage and grind back-bog up-sound deaden?


Sounds good. If you are worried about it warping, have a bucket of water and a cloth near by and just dab the weld with damp cloth ( NOT DRIPPING WET!!!). If however you are going to do this, you'd best lay a tack weld every inch before you start running beads between them. This way the panels won't warp for being gently cooled with the cloth.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:57 am 
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sequence welding!tack every 40 mm then join that with a weld then go to the opposite of said weld and join those taks and so on if u use water u really have to have a constant stream on the underside of ur welds or it will warp worse.if u do get warp u can contra heat with water but be carefull it will only 'work' so much good luck

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:05 am 
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Wet rag or stream of water is a good way to guarantee the weld will RUST out from the inside...
If you are in too much of a hurry to let it cool enough between tacks by itself then use an air blower.

On the other hand.... It's only a floor so just weld it.... A bit of distortion won't matter or be noticed.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 9:06 am 
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What jas said !!! Jus have a go at it. Tack it in and the join the tacks

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:56 am 
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Take your time cutting the plates to fit , cut out the hole in the car first , then lay some cardboard down to trace the patch plate , you don't want any gaps as the floor is already thin enough to weld , tack it in and weld it slowly , Cheers Paul.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 1:33 pm 
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Cheer's guy's. I know it's just a floor but it's also partly just so I can practice welding thin stuff properly.

Will have gas in a week or two and will post completed pics.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 1:20 am 
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shakes wrote:
Cheer's guy's. I know it's just a floor but it's also partly just so I can practice welding thin stuff properly.

Will have gas in a week or two and will post completed pics.





http://blog.pennlive.com/midstate_impac ... %20003.jpg

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 3:52 am 
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So I found the best way for me to make the cut was using tinsnips and cutting the new piece the same way. and to cut an extra few mm past the visible rust to make sure you have got all of it.

I made pieces as snug as possible but still had a couple of little gaps.

As for welding I layed a tack, waited 5-10seconds until the material returned to black, then placed the next tack in the "valley" where the previous one met the material so I got 50/50 coverage (does that make sense?)

I started in the centre of each side and worked my way out. and had no obvious warping. it is only a sierra floor though.

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