[Ben_Sierra]

Remember on each piston goes to TDC twice in a four stroke cycle. The spark needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke...

[EldarO]

royce wrote:

You need to pull the timing cover off, the timing belt off, the cam pulley off and put it back on on the other kayway slot in it, it can go on 2 ways and it alters the cam timing when you do

yes, "i" and "e" i paid specific attention to put the cam dowel in the "e" slot, hoever ill rip it apart again and recheck, another question, who the flying fuck designed the fan shroud? what a stupid fucking idea.

shep wrote:

no we are saying pull the dizzy out and spin the crank 360deg then re fit the dizzy.

which way is your rotor pointing with both rockers on #1 loose?

dude, thats what ive been doing, i havent been guessing the position of the dizzy and refitting it.

standing at the passenger side of the car, with the dizzy cap off, looking at the rotor, its pointing top right.

[EldarO]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

Remember on each piston goes to TDC twice in a four stroke cycle. The spark needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke...

im not new to motors, im just new to this specific problem.

my gut feeling is that i man handled something in the wrong manner when i pulled it off, and its borked it right up

[EldarO]

royce wrote:

EldarO wrote:

so ill read what shep has written again? twice? about the timing being out 180 degrees? and then ill do it 5,6,7,8 times?

i can understand someone setting the timing out by 180 degrees if they cannot see the mark on the cam gear, i dont have this issue.

when you can see the mark, are you setting to number 4? cause thats how Suzukis are set

well then this is the issue, its set to number 1!!!!!!

[EldarO]

cam and crank set on the mark, dizzy set to number 4, car just backfries through the intake.

i swapped the plug leads around, 1 to 4, and 2 to 3, and as always, engine attempts to start, but just falls short and fails.

[Westie]

Remove fan 4 bolts first then undo the top 2 cowel bolts and the the 2 lower bolts remove top Rad hose completely.
Pull cowel out of the way and fan at the same time, this should take about 5 min.

( No need to loosen altenator Pully stays put)

Using a 8mm socket remove the 6 bolts holding the lower pully.
Leaving the crank bolt there.
This is a lot easier withe the Cowel removed and even better with the Rad removed.

[89_tintop]

disconnect the air flow metre... and let us know what it does

[shep]

EldarO wrote:

royce wrote:

EldarO wrote:

so ill read what shep has written again? twice? about the timing being out 180 degrees? and then ill do it 5,6,7,8 times?

i can understand someone setting the timing out by 180 degrees if they cannot see the mark on the cam gear, i dont have this issue.

when you can see the mark, are you setting to number 4? cause thats how Suzukis are set

well then this is the issue, its set to number 1!!!!!!

so like i was saying it was 180deg out.

this reminds me of the vwdave thread with the same problem.

[Ben_Sierra]

Ah, vwdave, he gave us some laughs...

He was a master mechanic you know

[EldarO]

Westie wrote:

Remove fan 4 bolts first then undo the top 2 cowel bolts and the the 2 lower bolts remove top Rad hose completely.
Pull cowel out of the way and fan at the same time, this should take about 5 min.

( No need to loosen altenator Pully stays put)

Using a 8mm socket remove the 6 bolts holding the lower pully.
Leaving the crank bolt there.
This is a lot easier withe the Cowel removed and even better with the Rad removed.

how do you get the 4 water pump nuts off in under 5 minutes? its a stupid design, every other car ive worked on, the shroud has allowed for the fan, and the rad comes out with shroud attatched.

89_tintop wrote:

disconnect the air flow metre... and let us know what it does

nothing changes at all

shep wrote:

so like i was saying it was 180deg out.

this reminds me of the vwdave thread with the same problem.

well it wouldve been, had the car started up, and not started backfiring like a jersey housewife

[shep]

i reckon you need to get a workshop manual or read the one you have then start again.

either that or take it to a real mechanic

[Fatzook]

shep wrote:

i reckon you need to get a workshop manual or read the one you have then start again.

either that or take it to a real mechanic

Or forget everything you know about dodgy Toyotas

[EldarO]

so no one knows whats going on?

well thats alright i guess!

i dont have a workshop manual for the vit, and the stuff i do have, nothing mentions this retarded dizzy timing shit.

[atari4x4]

FSM http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

[mighty_vites]

atari4x4 wrote:

FSM http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

X2 that site knows all the stuff, and if it doesnt know it... just ask an auszooker

[esky]

EldarO wrote:

standing at the passenger side of the car, with the dizzy cap off, looking at the rotor, its pointing top right.

Unless there is a difference in dizzy's no.4 is bottom right standing there

[EldarO]

FSM is in russian, im Bosnian, not Russian!

dizzy position 4 is bottom left.

[89_tintop]

unbolt the exhaust just after the exhaust manifold

[losfer]

the blind leading the blind ....

[Fatzook]

losfer wrote:

the blind leading the blind ....

Good to see you are adding usefull information to the thread then

[EldarO]

89_tintop wrote:

unbolt the exhaust just after the exhaust manifold

no change!

assuming the cam and crank are at TDC, what, or where are the marks on the dizzy to line it up so i can slide it in?!

[losfer]

Ok , you want constructive !!

if it will only run when the timing is set to 30-40 degrees out , there is either a problem with cam timing or ignition timing.

go back to basics , remove the timing cover , remove the crank sprocket , make sure that the keyway isnt flogged out , if its fine , then refit it , torque it up to 120nm , set the crank sprocket so the mark lines up with the arrow on the oil pump , line up the outside E mark so that its pointing to the notch on the rocker cover , when its all tensioned up , rotate the crankshaft twice and make sure the marks still line up . ok you got the cam timing set .

now this is the exhaust stroke of number 1 and the firing stroke of number 4 , from my experience number one is at the bottom (thats if you have the leads on the right way) if you wind the crank around 1 revolution you can now set the dizzy to number one if you wish , otherwise just set it to number 4 where the timing marks lined up. you are allowing for the twisting of the rotor when inserting the dizzy arent you , so when its inserted it still points to number 4 (or 1 if you rotated the crank once) sorry i have to ask these stupid questions ..

anyway , it should start and run , if it starts and runs and still has no power , you either have the cam timing , or the ignition timing wrong . you can also tell if one of these are out by using a vacuum gauge hooked up to an unmetered vacuum port on the manifold , manifold vacuum should be between 18-22 inches of mercury (18-22 Hg) , unless you have some huge cams , you should see at least 18Hg.

if you suspect the ecu is causing the timing to be out , you can nobble it by bridging the diagnostic port to fix the ignition timing , although i doubt this is your issue.

[losfer]

ohh yeah one more thing , check the air flow meter , if you have the FSM check the voltages in and out , ground circuits etc , the only time ive had weird shit happen .. eg engine wont run , engine wont rev past certain rpm , engine backfires , engine fouls 2 plugs only (on a GV) , and a miriad of other weird issues , it was the air flow meter .

[losfer]

EldarO wrote:

89_tintop wrote:

unbolt the exhaust just after the exhaust manifold

no change!

assuming the cam and crank are at TDC, what, or where are the marks on the dizzy to line it up so i can slide it in?!

err .. take a look at where the leads go to the spark plugs from the cap , mark the position on the dizzy where either number 1 or 4 are on the cap , and set the dizzy to that position ... i seriously think this would be a 5 min job for a mechanic ...

[losfer]

Fatzook wrote:

losfer wrote:

the blind leading the blind ....

Good to see you are adding usefull information to the thread then

am i being useful enough yet ?

[Fatzook]

losfer wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

losfer wrote:

the blind leading the blind ....

Good to see you are adding usefull information to the thread then

am i being useful enough yet ?

Dunno. I'm afraid of dizzy's.

[EldarO]

thats VERY useful!

thanks

however im now getting conflicting information, ive lined the cam dowel up with the "e" however ive also gotten information that it should be lined up with "i"?

the crank keyway is 100% perfect and the cam timing is too, however this is assuming it is supposed to be on the "e" slot.

im certainly not ruling out that the AFM is busted, as, for all i know, it couldve been dropped or something while i had it all apart, however my multimeter is busted and i need to grab a mates, fortunately, testing the AFM is some of the information i have!

[royce]

If losfer says its E then its E

[want33s]

E for single cam and I for twin cam (as in gtI)

[EldarO]

i was more thinking I for intake and E for exhaust, and even though the cam sits on the intake side, everyones says "e" is the slot to go for!