[shabz]

MacBear wrote:

Good write up, and handy info shabz... thanks...

Just trying to give back to AZ what AZ has given me

Oh i also figured out how to use photobucket properly

[shabz]

Mugwui wrote:

Damn it! You know how you hang onto stuff thinking that you'll need it one day, and then after a couple of years you don't use it so you throw it out!!!!
Last week I threw one of those boots out after hanging onto it for two years.
That would have been a nice easy fix for you.

Yeah i do that all the time....hold onto things for ages, then the week after i throw them out i need them!

Doesn't matter, the sikaflex actually dried up nicely and has held the boot together quite well!
The only downside is that stuff is some sticky messy shit to work with.

[shabz]

Car is back together!

Slotting the gearbox back in was the toughest part. Got the spline in easily but that last little bit where the input shaft goes into the spigot bearing took a while.

In the end lying under the car i had to use my leg to lift it and push it in.

After that everything else was pretty easy. Whats strange though is that you have to take the front tailshaft off to be able to get the exhaust in and out.

The bolts across the top of the bell housing were a bit of a pain though. They're done up very tight and they're hard to get to.

I had to use this many extentions, with a big torque wrench and a 6 sided inpact socket to undo them.


Also while i had the box out, the sleeve that the thrust bearing sits on was worn. Enough to leave a tiny lip in it. look at the darker bit on the left

This shot taken from the fork side


This shot taken from the top


Also the old grease around the sleeve had gone rock hard!....had to use a screw driver to scrape it off! Probably explains the wearing and why my clutch pedal had so much resistance to it and an annoying squeak!

Now the clutch pedal is almost TOO light. Will get used to it quickly though.

Went for a test drive today.....nothing fell out the bottom and no oil to be seen.

45 min drive and wd40 still dripping off bits here and there and burning off the exhaust.

[fordem]

shabz wrote:

Also while i had the box out, the sleeve that the thrust bearing sits on was worn.

Just trying to avoid confusion - clutch release or throw out bearing.

On a car the term "thrust bearing" generally refers to crankshaft thrust bearings which will typically be found in the engine alongside the center main bearing.

[shabz]

fordem wrote:

shabz wrote:

Also while i had the box out, the sleeve that the thrust bearing sits on was worn.

Just trying to avoid confusion - clutch release or throw out bearing.

On a car the term "thrust bearing" generally refers to crankshaft thrust bearings which will typically be found in the engine alongside the center main bearing.

I think the 'proper' term is clutch release bearing. But after talking to different people i've heard all 3 terms used to describe the same thing. Confused the crap out of me to being with.

[[E-Z]]

So my clutch stopped working and have tested all the cylinders and are fine, and was told the fork and pivot is what has probably worn out, what wears on them? Will I need both the fork and the pivot or just one? Trying to repair cheaply at home and will do the clutch and rear main seal later
Ryan.

[shabz]

Here's a pic of the fork on the right, and the pivot in the center.

You can't really see it in this pic, but roughly in the center of the fork is the rounded spot where the pivot will sit (Very similar to the point where the slave cylinder sits, can be see at the top of the fork in this pic)

Because these two are permanently in contact, the wear happens mainly on the top of the pivot, as well as the point of contact with the fork.



Hope this helps....but i don't understand how your clutch can just 'stop' working. Even if the pivot and fork are worn, you should still get something.

Also if you're going to the effort of replacing these at home...i would highly suggest you do the clutch and rear main all at the same time. It's a bloody lot of work to want to do it twice!

[MacDaddy]

[E-Z] wrote:

So my clutch stopped working and have tested all the cylinders and are fine, and was told the fork and pivot is what has probably worn out, what wears on them? Will I need both the fork and the pivot or just one? Trying to repair cheaply at home and will do the clutch and rear main seal later
Ryan.

I would think best to do it all at once, instead of new bits with old bits... so yeah, do the fork and pivot together...

FYI
Fork ( Genuine ) = $56
Pivot ( Genuine ) = $15

Prices from Suzistore...

[Samurai81]

Great tech. My main seal went back in February at the bottom of the South Island after doing Whitcomb Rd. A bottle of Wynns stop leak has slowed it down but the seal and clutch is on the list for this months jobs. Now I know the parts list. Lucky I'm still working:(.

[[E-Z]]

I'm very confident with car mechanics a d build my own drift car, extra work later doesn't worry me, also my clutch has been slowly loosing pedal over the last 12 months and though it was the master cyl dieing, and when it did I replaced all the cylinders and realized the fork was jammed. So I'm guessing it's worn through. Thanks guys. If I have extra cash I'll replace everything but I need it for work asap first

[shabz]

Was just thinking - the fork could be somehow jammed against the throw out bearing. Look at the pics above you can see the wear the bearing had caused....this was making a horendous squeeking noise each time i pressed the pedal. It also put a lot of resistance into the pedal. Just something to look at too.

[[E-Z]]

so basically, buy all the parts and replace everything lol. what if i have a worse then yours? will my throw out bearing (new) still work?

[[E-Z]]

hmmm that seems more likely, as my pedal got harder and harder, but also got shorter and shorter to the floor. so perhaps it has just finally jammed up, you say "sleeve" does that mean its replaceable?

[shabz]

[E-Z] wrote:

will my throw out bearing (new) still work?

I just put heaps of grease on it and the worn part didn't seem to affect it, no play or anything....so i decided that it didn't need to be replaced. As for 'can it be replaced'....im sure it can be, but didn't really look into whats involved...besides more work!

[fordem]

shabz wrote:

Got my flywheel machined and picked it up today. Ready to go in.

Also i ordered new boots to replace the ones i damaged. Turns out i can only buy the top boot (in pic above - #27 in pic below) - the bottom one is part of the gear stick assembly can not be ordered individually! They said if i want it i'd have to buy the whole thing! (#24 in pic below)

I just came across this - one of the ways around having to replace the entire shift lever when all you need is the boot, is to make a substitute from the end of a steering rack boot.

Measure the neck of the shifter housing where the boot fits and then find yourself a steering rack boot where the smaller diameter of the accordion pleat will just fit over the neck - cut off the excess length from the open end of the rack boot making sure to cut longer than you need.

Lube the tie rod end of the rack boot with dishwashing liquid and gently ease it over the tapered portion of the shift lever and install the lever and then trim the rack boot to length and secure with a nylon cable tie.

[[E-Z]]

shabz wrote:

Ok got an update...

Popped into Suzuki after work today to get some quotes on parts.

Rear main oil seal............Part# 09283-98002 $85.72
Input bearing...................Part# 12623-71C01 $41.81
Release bearing...............Part# 23265-65D00 $73.52
Clutch release fork...........Part# 23211-85F00 $65.24
Release fork support........Part# 23221-78A00 $17.81

Clutch 'kit' (pressure & clutch plate only).....Part# 22400-67811 $439.82

The parts guy wasn't sure if the clutch kit included the release bearing though.

my suzuki wants over 80 for the fork and 30 for the support :S