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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:06 am 
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This is either a really dumb or a really relevant question ... here goes

With all this recent sierra case swap talk and in light of some of my own reading its got me wondering -

With a sierra transfer swap in a vvt model jimny with electronic 4x4 and auto hubs, do you require manual locking hubs or will the auto hubs still lock when the sierra case is engaged? im assuming it would be no different to engaging using the electronic button but i dont really know how the whole engaging operation and auto hubs work

Thanks choppy

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:19 am 
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The hubs i think are vacuum operated, fitting manual hubs would make the t-case swap easier. But i don't think you could configure the sierra case to work with the vacuum hubs with out doing some fancy wring and what not. The only way i could see the vacuum hubs working with the sierra case if if, you were to engage 4wd then engage then engage the hubs buy using the buttons, but then i'm not sure how you would know if you were in 4wd or not, The case maybe in 4wd but the hubs aren't in.

Best thing to do is probably fit manual sierra hubs with the spacer/adapter thingy.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:01 pm 
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Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:02 pm 
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zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


It would like be having twin sticks with out twin sticks :cool:

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:08 pm 
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:)

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:09 pm 
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Now i'm getting idea's, thanks Mr nutter for putting all these idea's in my head :lol:

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:42 pm 
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monkey wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


It would like be having twin sticks with out twin sticks :cool:


not really, because your front shaft, differential, and axles would still be working, and wearing out.... rather than in a twin stick case your car driveline would still behave like 2WD with the adding of that 2wd would be in low range :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:37 pm 
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BertZook wrote:
monkey wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


It would like be having twin sticks with out twin sticks :cool:


not really, because your front shaft, differential, and axles would still be working, and wearing out.... rather than in a twin stick case your car driveline would still behave like 2WD with the adding of that 2wd would be in low range :wink:


I doubt that would be a problem over the distances driven off road or when in low range...

its not like your going to be highway driving in 2L...

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:40 pm 
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S13RR4 wrote:
BertZook wrote:
monkey wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


It would like be having twin sticks with out twin sticks :cool:


not really, because your front shaft, differential, and axles would still be working, and wearing out.... rather than in a twin stick case your car driveline would still behave like 2WD with the adding of that 2wd would be in low range :wink:


I doubt that would be a problem over the distances driven off road or when in low range...

its not like your going to be highway driving in 2L...


Would make for a long trip...
































































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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 1:23 am 
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S13RR4 wrote:
BertZook wrote:
monkey wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


It would like be having twin sticks with out twin sticks :cool:


not really, because your front shaft, differential, and axles would still be working, and wearing out.... rather than in a twin stick case your car driveline would still behave like 2WD with the adding of that 2wd would be in low range :wink:


I doubt that would be a problem over the distances driven off road or when in low range...

its not like your going to be highway driving in 2L...


yeh I know, just saying that In the way that i would be turning and working and doing stuff ehhehehe.... of course it would take ages to wear out :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 9:33 am 
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Thanks guys very helpful

SO the 4H and 4L buttons would act as hub lock buttons and 2H as a hub unlock button whilst using the stick to actually select gears, sounds nifty i wonder if it actually works.

This talk of 2L and twin sticks i dont understand ... cant u get 2L with any transfer case just put in 4L and dont lock the hubs or am i wrong and dumb haha

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 9:40 am 
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you're right... you can unlock the hubs and get 2 low, but its not true 2L because the front shaft still spins. You can remove a detent in the case that allows you to select 2L in its true form as well, but that comes with its own set of issues.

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 9:44 am 
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Choppy wrote:
Thanks guys very helpful

SO the 4H and 4L buttons would act as hub lock buttons and 2H as a hub unlock button whilst using the stick to actually select gears, sounds nifty i wonder if it actually works.

This talk of 2L and twin sticks i dont understand ... cant u get 2L with any transfer case just put in 4L and dont lock the hubs or am i wrong and dumb haha


yeah twin sticks are for those who (for some reason unknown to me) want to change between 4L and 2L without getting out and locking/unlocking hubs.

Twin sticks basically, you have two transfer levers. One moves between High and Low and the other moves between 4 and 2.

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 9:45 am 
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alien wrote:
you're right... you can unlock the hubs and get 2 low, but its not true 2L because the front shaft still spins. You can remove a detent in the case that allows you to select 2L in its true form as well, but that comes with its own set of issues.


fair enough, i thought i was missing something

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 10:20 am 
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I kinda explain it... think my english is not that good eh :roll:


:lol:

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 10:21 am 
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BertZook wrote:
I kinda explain it... think my english is not that good eh :roll:


:lol:


It's better than mine :roll:

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 9:36 pm 
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S13RR4 wrote:
Choppy wrote:
Thanks guys very helpful

SO the 4H and 4L buttons would act as hub lock buttons and 2H as a hub unlock button whilst using the stick to actually select gears, sounds nifty i wonder if it actually works.

This talk of 2L and twin sticks i dont understand ... cant u get 2L with any transfer case just put in 4L and dont lock the hubs or am i wrong and dumb haha


yeah twin sticks are for those who (for some reason unknown to me) want to change between 4L and 2L without getting out and locking/unlocking hubs.

Twin sticks basically, you have two transfer levers. One moves between High and Low and the other moves between 4 and 2.


Funny, to me reasons for a selectable 2 lo are very clear. Off road there are plently of situations where 2 wheel drive would help you throttle steer around an obstacle but 1.3 doesn't have the guts to do it in high so to be able to select 2 lo would enable these driving techniques.

My main reason for wanting this option is when I'm towing, I hate riding and slipping the clutch, really hate it, so, here's an example of when I would use it, keep in mind the trailer weighs 400kg which puts a lot of extra traction particularly on the rear axle;
Barge has just arrived, I'm on soft sand, only option unless I want to ride/slip the clutch plus not get bogged is Low 4, drive onto the hard surface of the barge which is fine while I'm in a straight line but then the barge guy directs me to a position requiring a turn, problem one. Not that big of an issue because there's usually a degree of sand on the deck but would be nice to have a quick change to 2WD while still in low for on deck movements. Next up is driving off the barge onto the tar at the other end and slow crawl as cars in front stuff about, 2 low means easier bumper-to-bumper plus no binding.
Yes I could just unlock the hubs once I stop on the deck but why should I have to if there's a relatively easy and cheap mod I can do.

People say this is pointless for everyday wheeling but I feel that way about lockers. Different strokes for different folks.

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 2:37 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
S13RR4 wrote:
Choppy wrote:
Thanks guys very helpful

SO the 4H and 4L buttons would act as hub lock buttons and 2H as a hub unlock button whilst using the stick to actually select gears, sounds nifty i wonder if it actually works.

This talk of 2L and twin sticks i dont understand ... cant u get 2L with any transfer case just put in 4L and dont lock the hubs or am i wrong and dumb haha


yeah twin sticks are for those who (for some reason unknown to me) want to change between 4L and 2L without getting out and locking/unlocking hubs.

Twin sticks basically, you have two transfer levers. One moves between High and Low and the other moves between 4 and 2.


Funny, to me reasons for a selectable 2 lo are very clear. Off road there are plently of situations where 2 wheel drive would help you throttle steer around an obstacle but 1.3 doesn't have the guts to do it in high so to be able to select 2 lo would enable these driving techniques.

My main reason for wanting this option is when I'm towing, I hate riding and slipping the clutch, really hate it, so, here's an example of when I would use it, keep in mind the trailer weighs 400kg which puts a lot of extra traction particularly on the rear axle;
Barge has just arrived, I'm on soft sand, only option unless I want to ride/slip the clutch plus not get bogged is Low 4, drive onto the hard surface of the barge which is fine while I'm in a straight line but then the barge guy directs me to a position requiring a turn, problem one. Not that big of an issue because there's usually a degree of sand on the deck but would be nice to have a quick change to 2WD while still in low for on deck movements. Next up is driving off the barge onto the tar at the other end and slow crawl as cars in front stuff about, 2 low means easier bumper-to-bumper plus no binding.
Yes I could just unlock the hubs once I stop on the deck but why should I have to if there's a relatively easy and cheap mod I can do.

People say this is pointless for everyday wheeling but I feel that way about lockers. Different strokes for different folks.


Well now they are no longer unknown to me =)

I use 2L for trailers sometimes but have never needed to switch between 4L and 2L so that makes sense to me now. Thanks

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 3:58 am 
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S13RR4 wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
S13RR4 wrote:
Choppy wrote:
Thanks guys very helpful

SO the 4H and 4L buttons would act as hub lock buttons and 2H as a hub unlock button whilst using the stick to actually select gears, sounds nifty i wonder if it actually works.

This talk of 2L and twin sticks i dont understand ... cant u get 2L with any transfer case just put in 4L and dont lock the hubs or am i wrong and dumb haha


yeah twin sticks are for those who (for some reason unknown to me) want to change between 4L and 2L without getting out and locking/unlocking hubs.

Twin sticks basically, you have two transfer levers. One moves between High and Low and the other moves between 4 and 2.


Funny, to me reasons for a selectable 2 lo are very clear. Off road there are plently of situations where 2 wheel drive would help you throttle steer around an obstacle but 1.3 doesn't have the guts to do it in high so to be able to select 2 lo would enable these driving techniques.

My main reason for wanting this option is when I'm towing, I hate riding and slipping the clutch, really hate it, so, here's an example of when I would use it, keep in mind the trailer weighs 400kg which puts a lot of extra traction particularly on the rear axle;
Barge has just arrived, I'm on soft sand, only option unless I want to ride/slip the clutch plus not get bogged is Low 4, drive onto the hard surface of the barge which is fine while I'm in a straight line but then the barge guy directs me to a position requiring a turn, problem one. Not that big of an issue because there's usually a degree of sand on the deck but would be nice to have a quick change to 2WD while still in low for on deck movements. Next up is driving off the barge onto the tar at the other end and slow crawl as cars in front stuff about, 2 low means easier bumper-to-bumper plus no binding.
Yes I could just unlock the hubs once I stop on the deck but why should I have to if there's a relatively easy and cheap mod I can do.

People say this is pointless for everyday wheeling but I feel that way about lockers. Different strokes for different folks.


Well now they are no longer unknown to me =)

I use 2L for trailers sometimes but have never needed to switch between 4L and 2L so that makes sense to me now. Thanks


:)

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:49 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


12v, switch & relay....

auto's won't work with out the lil black box connected to the Jim transfer otherwise...

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:54 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
Would be cool to have them working independently. Case in 4 lo or hi and you could unlock and lock the hubs from in the cab at will. 2 low at the push of a button.
I think when the 4 high button is pushed the hubs activate first and then, once they're locked, the electric actuator in the case does its thing.

So I'd say try it with the auto hubs and then if the hubs don't work you've got manual hubs as a back-up.


12v, switch & relay....

auto's won't work with out the lil black box connected to the Jim transfer otherwise...


Well that answers that. Easy enough then.
If I hadn't swapped to manual I'd set up this way.

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:59 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
Well that answers that. Easy enough then.
If I hadn't swapped to manual I'd set up this way.


You have Pm sir..... :helloo:

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 10:23 am 
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Andrew88 has his hubs on a switch, takes all of a few minutes too hook up. Be handy for lowrange boat ramp work.

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Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 10:34 am 
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It's just a air switch, just need to supply it with power...


:roll: & air.... :roll:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:30 pm 
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I wired mine using a rocker switch in from the case to the cab to maintain the auto hubs.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2020 10:43 pm 
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There is a wire that goes to the transfer connect it to the 4wd light switch and the hubs will work

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 6:50 pm 
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so theres 2 4wd switches on the vvt transfer that send signals to the 4wd computer to make the vacuum switches operate to lock the hubs in.
you would definately need to put manual hubs on , or some manual way to operate the unlock and lock solenoids.
the 4wd system was way too overcomplicated and for that reason it would be simpler to just fit manual locking hubs.
also if you want your speedo to work you will need an external trigger wheel and sensor.

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