[Verm1n]

is there an air filter for the 32/36 weber that fits dirrectly over the top??
would it be easier just to make/adapt a hat to suit the normal sierra air box??

[Verm1n]

pic of weber..

[skyman]

Yes they make a snorkel cover / hat for the weber but I do not have the part number on hand.

[Verm1n]

skyman wrote:

Yes they make a snorkel cover / hat for the weber but I do not have the part number on hand.

well thats a start I found a few pics of the filter.. but still can't find a part no.

[Built4thrashing]

Best filter to run on a weber is a lynx Ramflow filter. Gives the best airflow results. The factory sierra air box is too restrictive for the weber.


Try a performance parts shop. they should be able to get one for you.

[Verm1n]

Built4thrashing wrote:

Best filter to run on a weber is a lynx Ramflow filter. Gives the best airflow results. The factory sierra air box is too restrictive for the weber.


Try a performance parts shop. they should be able to get one for you.

cheers.. everytime ive asked for a filter for it.. They ask wat its on.. then the go to there special little catalouge :S Is this it.. umm no.... thats a standard sierra one..

[calofmilang]

x2

I had the modified factory carb hat, but got a ramflo filter last week and it has made a huge difference

[Verm1n]

calofmilang wrote:

x2

I had the modified factory carb hat, but got a ramflo filter last week and it has made a huge difference

any idea on the part no mate??
wood be much appreciated

[Built4thrashing]

Ask for a ramflow filter for a 2ltr escort.

[Verm1n]

Built4thrashing wrote:

Ask for a ramflow filter for a 2ltr escort.

cheers thanks for that

[calofmilang]

I can't remember off the top of my head.
The weber performance website will probably have it listed.

[Shansh]

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/prod ... cts_id=363

just for interest sake

[Verm1n]

Thanks guys.. I found exactly what im chasing.. just gotta wait for the shops to open tomoz now...

[skyman]

Shansh got it. This is the only cover I know that will allow for a decent snorkel on the weber in the zook.Otherwise they are no fun to hook up. At all

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/prod ... cts_id=363

[Built4thrashing]

skyman wrote:

Shansh got it. This is the only cover I know that will allow for a decent snorkel on the weber in the zook.Otherwise they are no fun to hook up. At all

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/prod ... cts_id=363

There is one thats even better but wont work unless you have a BL.

only pic i can find.



and here is more info i found

[skyman]

We used JB weld (2 part epoxy I think), drill a small hose, then we use a 1/4" flexible see through hose (fuel resistant) and use red loctitie to secure it.

We run the hose up, and then bend it down in a "u" shape. you want the float vent to drain into the main throat of the carb so it burns off an excess fuel.
What this mod does is route the fuel that was spilling into the air jets, go down the main throat instead.

When you do this mod, double check the gasket. Some gaskets have a very small hole in them that over laps the float bowl and the air jets. The fuel just leaks through the gasket right into the air jets=bad JuJu.

You ca also run the float a little lower than spec(the lower the float the less chance of stalling on inclines), but increase the needle valve's drop o the bowl fills with fuel faster.

How to test is to make full throttle runs through 3-4th gear. If you run out of fuel or power before you top out the RPMs in that gear you need more needle drop, or a higher float. If you can make those runs without hitting a flat spot, you should be good to go.

There is a lot to tuning a weber properly, just sticking one on the intake will make a difference, but if you take the tie to learn the circuits and how to tune them you can get some crazy power out of the 1.3

If anyone can post a picture of on of your intakes bare, I can show you how to get some serious gains out of the intake too (if it is similar to ours).

Always use the two-piece adapter, and port the plenum for one hole instead of two smaller ones. The one piece adapters actually cut one the flow of a weber in half. If you look down the throats, the one piece covers half of one of them..no joke.

The idle jets an lean best idle setting(when right) will give you that "kick in the pants" immediate acceleration.

The mains kick in past around 2500 Rpm and give you the acceleration when you hit the power band.

The secondary idle is what makes the weber roar when you mash the pedal(again when right).

The air correctors are what gives you a good cruise power, and mileage.

A narrow band O2 gauge is an excellent tool for someone who can not tell the difference between a lean power loss, and a rich bog. They are not the end all tool, but for the $50 they cost, a narrow band is well worth it only for carbs).

Again post a pic of a bare 1.3 carbed intake, and I will show you where/if you can get a few horses out of it.

Hope it helps

[orangeshannon]

i made up a water "RESISTANT" air box which when i bourght the car it came with an exposed air filter that just sat over the top so all i did was made the airbox around the airfilter so it still uses that filter then all i did was get abit of pipe onto the end of it and faced it downward so that no water could enter into it if it was to get splashed
it dont seal properly but it does a great job for how much it cost me free

[sogone]

skyman wrote:

We used JB weld (2 part epoxy I think), drill a small hose, then we use a 1/4" flexible see through hose (fuel resistant) and use red loctitie to secure it.

We run the hose up, and then bend it down in a "u" shape. you want the float vent to drain into the main throat of the carb so it burns off an excess fuel.
What this mod does is route the fuel that was spilling into the air jets, go down the main throat instead.

When you do this mod, double check the gasket. Some gaskets have a very small hole in them that over laps the float bowl and the air jets. The fuel just leaks through the gasket right into the air jets=bad JuJu.

You ca also run the float a little lower than spec(the lower the float the less chance of stalling on inclines), but increase the needle valve's drop o the bowl fills with fuel faster.

How to test is to make full throttle runs through 3-4th gear. If you run out of fuel or power before you top out the RPMs in that gear you need more needle drop, or a higher float. If you can make those runs without hitting a flat spot, you should be good to go.

There is a lot to tuning a weber properly, just sticking one on the intake will make a difference, but if you take the tie to learn the circuits and how to tune them you can get some crazy power out of the 1.3

If anyone can post a picture of on of your intakes bare, I can show you how to get some serious gains out of the intake too (if it is similar to ours).

Always use the two-piece adapter, and port the plenum for one hole instead of two smaller ones. The one piece adapters actually cut one the flow of a weber in half. If you look down the throats, the one piece covers half of one of them..no joke.

The idle jets an lean best idle setting(when right) will give you that "kick in the pants" immediate acceleration.

The mains kick in past around 2500 Rpm and give you the acceleration when you hit the power band.

The secondary idle is what makes the weber roar when you mash the pedal(again when right).

The air correctors are what gives you a good cruise power, and mileage.

A narrow band O2 gauge is an excellent tool for someone who can not tell the difference between a lean power loss, and a rich bog. They are not the end all tool, but for the $50 they cost, a narrow band is well worth it only for carbs).

Again post a pic of a bare 1.3 carbed intake, and I will show you where/if you can get a few horses out of it.

Hope it helps

Very interested in this skyman. Here is what our manifolds look like.