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felix
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 186 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:34 pm |
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So.. I had a go at getting the bastard out today to no avail. Rattle gun, big arse breaker bar, etc etc. It would not move.
What have other people tried and successed with? I'm not too keen on the breaker bar on chassis rail technique though! 
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Damo
az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:43 pm |
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felix wrote: So.. I had a go at getting the bastard out today to no avail. Rattle gun, big arse breaker bar, etc etc. It would not move. What have other people tried and successed with? I'm not too keen on the breaker bar on chassis rail technique though! Big arse breaker bar with a length of 32NB on it. I bent my breaker bar last time I did this, so next time I think I will make up a heavy duty breaker bar so i don't have to wreck my good one. Well, it was a $9 Supercheap job but you get the drift 
My biggest problem was holding the crank still and keeping the engine from tipping over. It didn't help that I had the engine mounted on an engine stand.
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SJ50.4.LYF
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felix
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 186 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:35 pm |
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Hmm I'll give it another go tomorrow. Today I had it in gear with my mate on the brake pedal and i still couldn't make it budge. Keeping in mind I didn't have any pipe handy so I just went and got the biggest breaker bar i could find in the workshop. 1.5 meters long and yeah wasn't budging.
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Rockhopper
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1265 Location: Chipping Norton
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Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:16 pm |
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felix wrote: I'm not too keen on the breaker bar on chassis rail technique though! Why not? I've been in the motor trade for over 20 years now, and thats the method I've always used. Never an issue.
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We're riding in the Ninky Nonk!
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want33s
az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:32 pm |
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Theres a few ways to do it..
* Breaker bar on the chassis does work.
* Rattle gun.
* remove No1 plug. wind engine to BTDC and push about 40cm of rope into cylinder. Turn engine anticlockwise by hand till it stops and then use breaker bar from top. May need a belt with a hammer or a length of pipe attached. Then wind clockwise a bit and remove rope.
I've used all 3 methods depending on tools available & the vehicle.
Jas.
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Taff
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 889 Location: Brisbane
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Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:50 pm |
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breaker on the passenger guard works great
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Fluffy
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 892 Location: Picton, NSW
Vehicle: 105 landcruiser
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 1:38 am |
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not left hand thread is it?
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4x4ish
Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 752 Location: Brisbane
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:23 am |
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there is a tool u can get from trade tools for approx $150, where u put your impact socket at the bottom it and hit it from the top with a sledge hammer. i dont know what its called but thats how it works and i had same prob as u and this was the only thing that worked on the tight barstard. the tool is 60 to 80cm long from memory and if u go in a proper tool shop they should be able to help u out from that description.
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felix
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 186 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:20 pm |
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Yeah, i've heard of the "manual" impact wrench.. one of the other apprentices was telling me about it.
I'll try the things suggested.. if all else fails i'll try the breaker bar on passenger guard treatment. I rekon some peanut has put a shitload of locktite in there.. might try heating it up first.
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Westie
az supporter
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 1417 Location: Caloundra Sunshine
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:29 pm |
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FIRST work out what way the motor turns over.
Then place breaker bar onto crank bolt and let the breaker bar come to rest on the chassis.
Now remove the HT lead and touch the starter
This will get it undone, have done this before and works a treat.
Sounds extreem but is a whole lot better than belting it with a hammer and garring everything.
This method will work remember just a quick touch with the started 95% of the time it comes off on the first go. HAVE FULLY A CHARGED BATTERY
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Steve W
Old guy .... Just wants to go 4WDing with
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kenn
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1202 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:56 pm |
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Heat it up ,then put ice on the end of the bolt..
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Taff
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 889 Location: Brisbane
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:10 pm |
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Any advice for putting it back on without a rattle gun?
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want33s
az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:33 pm |
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Taff wrote: Any advice for putting it back on without a rattle gun?
Rope in the cylinder.
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Westie
az supporter
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 1417 Location: Caloundra Sunshine
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:10 pm |
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just do it up with a breaker bar as tight as you can get it, THEN
Get a good hammer and give it a couple of good hits just to lock it off.
If motor is down on compression then a screwdriver onto the ring gear and brace it while you hit the breaker bar.
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Steve W
Old guy .... Just wants to go 4WDing with
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felix
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 186 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:06 am |
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Well I got it all done today! Yay no more oil leaks from that area haha.
What I ended up doing is, I made up a tool to lock the flywheel. It slots into the bellhousing depression (its behind the inspection plate), then mates with the teeth on the flywheel. Then just reefed on the bolt with a breaker bar. Came off first go! Did a similar thing when putting it back on.
That rope in the cylinder method sounds pretty neat, I gotta try it some day.
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