[94BAZOOKA]

I am new to this and have no idea

I have put all my measurements in a calculator and it has come with some number

Will this work



I will be using tube links with Heims

What is a good all round base to start with

For

Anti-squat

Roll center

[cairns27]

Yes



bye

[Jazzor]

You can press the print screen button, go into paint or any picture program and the find paste (ctrl+V) to make a screenshot. As great as photos of screens are

[jdk81]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_1/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=701536&highlight=suspension

[Fatzook]

You need to give us some context.

If this vehicle is to be road driven, the setup you have there will be appauling. However for a huge travel offroad buggy, it will be alot better.

That setup will give very low roll stiffness though, so it will not be ideal for speed work or side slopes without the use of swaybars and carefull shock/ coilover/ spring setup.

What length shocks do you plan to use?

[94BAZOOKA]

It will not be road driven

I plan to drive off camber slopes as well as steep rock climbs

I'm not sure on the exact shocks I will be using but most likely 16" air shocks

[94BAZOOKA]

Can you give me some tips on what to change so it is better suited to my terrain

[want33s]

Start by moving the short links closer together.

[Gwagensteve]

Loose the airshock idea. They way they "push off" will accentuate the low roll stiffness of a 4 link setup, which you will have to fight with a sway bar. Coilovers or properly captured coils would allow you to avoid a sway bar.

I don't really see how a car that can't drive properly on road works great off road. The problems my car has on road right now are evident off road as well.

I can't comment on the geometry - I only had anti squat to contend with when I built my 3 link, but want33's comment seems sound.

Steve.

[94BAZOOKA]

Is this any better

[Gwagensteve]

I'm no expert, but I reckon that would squat like a mofo.

Steve.

[94BAZOOKA]

What do I need to change for more anti squat

[Gwagensteve]

Raise the chassis end of the upper links.

Do some reading "instant centre" it will help you to understand the relationship between weight transfer, COG and antisquat.

Steve.

[want33s]

Yep raise the blue (short) link chassis mounts. Bring them closer at the diff too.

[Gwagensteve]

Rule of thumb is to have 1/4 of your tyre diameter as vertical separation at the diff end. You'll want slightly less than that at the chassis end, but the exact figure will depend on desired antisquat and the location of your COG.

I'm well under that at the diff, but I had packaging issues, which is always going to be the case working within a stock chassis, a low car, and trying to keep the load area low and useable.

My car is very close to neutral (100%) antisquat, but due to packaging I wasn't able to really calculate it- it was a case of best fit. I allowed three holes at the chassis end and my best result is on the lowest hole.

Steve.

[BlueSuzy]

My antisquat ranges are 60% - 80% - 100% by making only 3 adjusting bolts at chassis for the 2 top arms. (yet to see how she handles in real life yet)

[got_bar_work]

Shouldn't u try and keep the lowers horizontal to help it climb better

[Fatzook]

BlueSuzy wrote:

My antisquat ranges are 60% - 80% - 100% by making only 3 adjusting bolts at chassis for the 2 top arms. (yet to see how she handles in real life yet)

I was given the figures of 70-80% by billavista on Pirate. So I have 60%, 75% and 90% adjusting points on my frame end uppers. Currently set at 75%

[BlueSuzy]

Yeah sounds good. Mine also changes depending on height so i had to make it adjustable. Front will be very similar antidive also.

[Ratty562]

im really thinking on doing this to mine.. just gotta sit down and get my head around it all

[want33s]

Ratty562 wrote:

im really thinking on doing this to mine.. just gotta sit down and get my head around it all

Think about how much work is involved in doing a 4 link properly and then triple it.

[Ratty562]

want33s wrote:

Ratty562 wrote:

im really thinking on doing this to mine.. just gotta sit down and get my head around it all

Think about how much work is involved in doing a 4 link properly and then triple it.

yeh i know how much work goes it to it. not in to much of a rush it will only be a triler queen.. and i should prob finish my ute off

[appsie]

ah, all you smarter people than me that read 1st lol

im no expert,heck ive just come in from being out at the shed changing the rear end of mine again lol. i have a double triangulated 4 link in the rear,little bit of angle in on lowers,more than the 45 on uppers and they near touch each other over the diff(as jas has told you to do)
i have 25% tyre diameter seperation at the diff between uppers and lowers and my first run had the uppers sitting pretty flat at ride height,well spot on really.BUT i made them too short and in a last minute rush before the TT social i lengthened them with some ghetto bracketry to get the length better.

the problem i faced doing this with out cutting my rear chassis apart like i have tonight is that i dropped the uppers a long way at the chassis end.At this stage i had never read up on it really and had never driven the truck.What i now know is that as steve just said it will squat like a mofo.The mans right mine ended up at 3" seperation at chassis end and sux the big one.it squats like shit,unloads the front a heap on climbs,hops and carries on but gets huge traction lol.
It is now being cut and shut and changed to have the correct seperation at the chassis end and maybe adjustable as it was just crap before. my instant centre as such is at about the back of the seat whereas a general rule is 1ft infront of harmonic balancer.

so dont do what i did lol. the time that goes into cutting and changing is more than the first time round if you ask a few questions or read first.theres no maths or calculator in mine but it will be alot beter this time round

[appsie]

looking at the calculator pics you could lengthen your uppers a bit too.look short there.it all depends on what fits.seems some people run them at 70% some run them at 90 or same length even.

all this shit seems to have to be that much more spot on on a rig with airs. My mates airshocked rig is spot on i wouldnt want a rig to handle any other way, and mine .........well lol it may get there

throw some more angle in your uppers too,try get them to 45 plus,harder the longer the link but will help. with how you have it there i think a panhard would be in order

[SierraDan]

My mates rodeo has same length uppers and lowers i think.. or not a great deal longer/shorter. but they are longgggg and it all works very well.

[Red89]

In the rear of mine they are all the same length, the front 2 lowers are the same length as the rears and the front 2 uppers are around 80%, I'm still running it in at the moment but am happy with it so far.

[Fatzook]

I used uppers that were 85% the length of the lowers in my ute, and Rusho's coily. Still short arms though (465mm lowers).

[94BAZOOKA]

the uppers are as long as i can get them without extending the wheel base as the mounts are close to the tranfer already
i would have to make the lowers lower to get coreect seperation

thanks for the info so far and i would like some ffed back on this one




how can it be set up so i dont need a panard

[Gwagensteve]

I don't understand why everyone is a panhard hater? The only advantage of a double triangulated 4-link over three link and panhard AFAIK is that it might be possible to remove a link and still drive the car.

Otherwise, a three link and panhard is infinitely easier to work out - set your lower link length, set the upper link at 80% of the lower length, run the upper link 25% of the tyre diameter above the lower link mounts on the diff, and adjust anti squat to suit.

They are SO much easier to get right than a 4 link. The disadvantages of a panhard evaporate when you are building from scratch - the panhard can be set up level at ride height.

Steve.

[94BAZOOKA]