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Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:52 am
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Vehicle: 06 Jimny

Post Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:43 pm 
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Hi fellow zookers

cut long story short, I have a 05 Jimny (recently purchased) came with the following mods

- 3 or 4 inch Lift
- Rancho Shocks
- TJM Springs (I think)
- TD RTC
- TD Adj Panard Rod
- ARB Lockers
- 30 inch muddies

so far I have done

- new set of rotors and pads
- new King Pin Bearing
- New wheel bearing

cheers
wen
its still the same and I have told by my mechanic king pin bearing is pretty tight so might not need a shimm but I am not too sure.

now can anyone point me into right direction (good jimny mechanics) or may be fellow member willing to help I will pay in return.

I have upload a youtuve clip for the reference.

http://youtu.be/Hd20tcYt580


anyhelp is appreciated.

I am located in sydney

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:54 pm 
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all that lift & no caster correction? :?

there is an epic jimny wobble thread on here somewhere with heaps of good info

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Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:24 pm
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 6:16 am 
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I had the same problem with my 89 Sierra. The King pin bearings helped but the wobble stopped when I replaced the steering Dampner.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:15 am 
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wlin88 wrote:
cut long story short,


To cut an even longer story short


viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15499


It was only on page 2 FFS.... have a look next time.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:50 am 
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dzasta wrote:
I had the same problem with my 89 Sierra. The King pin bearings helped but the wobble stopped when I replaced the steering Dampner.


I found fitting extra soundproofing fixed the noise from my worn out gearbox.

Steve

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:53 am 
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dzasta wrote:
I had the same problem with my 89 Sierra. The King pin bearings helped but the wobble stopped when I replaced the steering Dampner.


I had same experience only after i bought it i noticed i didnt have one at all.....

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:45 am 
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scales,

trust me I have gone through your thread many times ! I am sick of doing it my self now so I just want to find an mechanic that can help as I dont want to replace something and find out is not that issue

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:07 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
all that lift & no caster correction? :?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:46 am 
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You need some caster correction andwhen your looking at the 8th page of the death wobble thread, have a look at the colour diagram on the king pin shim. Most people will throw there hands In the air and give up when they have removed the big square one with 5holes in it, so looks at it again and put a shim in there.


I know this might seem basic, but unless someone told me about it I would of then asked where to get shims from.

Just go to a bearing/nuts and bolt shop, and they sell rolls of shim paper, all thicknesses. Use tin snips or a careful stanley to cut the right shape, and then put in. Dead simple and a shim paper roll will cost you around $15.

Stekky said it a million times, shim the kingpins.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:52 am 
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stekky said you must cut the shims out with one of these otherwise it wont work. :wink:
Image

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 12:18 pm 
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wlin88 wrote:
I dont want to replace something and find out is not that issue



unfortunatley, for the most part, this is one of those trial and error things. start with the most common fix (shims) and work from there. A mechanic is only going to do the same thing... or less if they dont know the problem as well as some of us. and charge you a fortune for it.

this is what i got when i did my shims... perfect fit, and varying thickness. only takes a week to get here from UK
http://www.bigjimny.com/store/index.php ... t/p_8.html


and to quote myself on the other thread youve read a million times
Quote:

Okay, i have eliminated 99% of wobble now. so here are the steps i have taken... you may not like what you read, but it worked for me.

replaced wheel bearings DOUBTFUL ANY CHANGE, but cant prove otherwise, so just do it.
replaced kingpin bearings + .5 shim (i used tensionometer to get correct tension) BIG CHANGE, DO IT
replaced ALL tie-rod ends NO CHANGE, needed it anyway, worth doing
didnt replace panhard bushes as they were new panhards, but check yours
BALANCE wheels MED CHANGE, needed it anyway
re-shimmed to .7 as i wanted it a bit firmer (top n bottom) SMALL CHANGE
adjusted steering box to eliminate slack. SMALL CHANGE
replaced rad arm bushes with super pro poly bushes BIG CHANGE

at this stage its pretty much gone, i can kinda feel it a bit (very barely) on certain road terrains (hit a bump a certain way maybe) but it quickly dissapates. for note, i had the REALLY REALLY bad wobble, where you loose control of the car and feel like your about to die. not the little faggy wobble. although i did have that also.


My fwd rad arms are Jimnybits arms i dont use offset bushes, so results may vary if you have offsets.

if i were to pick just a few things to do, i would say in this order
*kingpins
*panhard
*rad arms bushes (even if they look ok, mine looked fine! until they were out)

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 12:22 pm 
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oh and if you havent done your castor correction properly.... any of these steps wont do shit cos you have to fix that first. either get the offset bushes done right or get some JB arms with some superpro bushes.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 1:34 pm 
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Scales wrote:
oh and if you havent done your castor correction properly.... any of these steps wont do shit cos you have to fix that first. either get the offset bushes done right or get some JB arms with some superpro bushes.



I'm a supported of slightly + castor and I think this would probably fix most Jimnys with wobble. Like Scales says, fix castor first. Check King Pin bearings, replace if necessary and possibly shim.

Also as Scales says, most mechanics know nothing about the issue or the fixes and will replace everything in the front end in attempt to find the cause. I've heard plenty of stories of people spending over a thousand bucks and still having a wobble.

If you plan to shim make sure you understand the process or your bearing will only last for a few months when you over-compress them. Been there, done that!

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:09 pm 
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I have recently purchased a Jimny for my niece which is dead stock. It has a wobble.

This is what I am going to do, and from what I have read so far no one has tried.

Firstly I am going to adjust backlash in the box using the top adjuster. Secondly I am going to add extra pre-load to the input bearing by tweaking the adjuster nut. I have noticed that Jimnys have a very light feeling box with the wheels in the air compared to Vits (as well as more lash).

I will let you know how this goes.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:11 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
Also as Scales says, most mechanics know nothing about the issue or the fixes and will replace everything in the front end in attempt to find the cause. I've heard plenty of stories of people spending over a thousand bucks and still having a wobble.



:peaceout: :oops:

caster first!

if all else fails i fixed the problem by trading it in on a GV for the missus.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:38 am 
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guys, I got the snake racing control arm at the front I thought when u replace the stock control arms to the snake racing one u dont need the castor correction bush ? am I right ?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:39 am 
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btw anyone has the suzuki part number for the shimm from suzuki ?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:57 am 
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joeblow wrote:
I have recently purchased a Jimny for my niece which is dead stock. It has a wobble.

This is what I am going to do, and from what I have read so far no one has tried.

Firstly I am going to adjust backlash in the box using the top adjuster. Secondly I am going to add extra pre-load to the input bearing by tweaking the adjuster nut. I have noticed that Jimnys have a very light feeling box with the wheels in the air compared to Vits (as well as more lash).

I will let you know how this goes.



Ive done it.

detailled it in the other thread too.
It did seem to help a bit with the feel through the steering wheel and handling, but the wobble effect was not nearly as much as the other fixes ive detailled.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:58 am 
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wlin88 wrote:
guys, I got the snake racing control arm at the front I thought when u replace the stock control arms to the snake racing one u dont need the castor correction bush ? am I right ?


You didnt say that to begin with.... :roll:


so yeah you should be all castor'ed up in theory. what condition are the bushes in? are they the stock rubber ones? or are they superpro polys?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:18 am 
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Scales wrote:
wlin88 wrote:
guys, I got the snake racing control arm at the front I thought when u replace the stock control arms to the snake racing one u dont need the castor correction bush ? am I right ?


You didnt say that to begin with.... :roll:


so yeah you should be all castor'ed up in theory. what condition are the bushes in? are they the stock rubber ones? or are they superpro polys?




my bad, I thought I mention it. maybe in another thread .. yeah the bush looks ok to me. and its the stock rubber one !

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:39 am 
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How much correction do the Snake arms give?
I'd say, go get it measured at a steering/tyre/suspension place, then you have a starting point

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:29 am 
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+1 to nutter.
and also, just an FYI. my stock rubber ones looked "okay" too until i took them out and discovered they were rooted.

and another note on bushes, its second on the list from the OFFICIAL suzuki service bulletin for the wobble fix. (i assume youve read this)

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